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'19 Fiesta ST mods, plans, opinions (not a build per se)

M-Sport fan

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The B6/Swift Spec R may end up being the route I must take as well.

If that setup lowers the ride height way too much for my uses/purposes, I will add in the top mount spacers to get that back. [wink]
 


Mikey456

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Finally finished reading just about every thread concerning mountune clubsport suspension, B6 vs B8 with swift springs....

That was a rabbit hole and a half..

I am hesitant to do anything at this point to the suspension (leaning B6 with Swift springs). What would I like to achieve? Little less gap fender to tire? Since doing the wheels/tires I feel like I am noticing the gap now, something I didn't notice before.
The reason that I went with Swift springs was 1)appearance 2)they’re linear like stock. My car is black with black wheels and it did not look good at stock height, period. Another route to closing the gap is upsizing the tires to 215. When I went the lowering spring route the rear wheels tuck in too much in my opinion. I put on some 5mm rear spacers to offset and it looks perfect for me. I think the B6’s are probably what I will upgrade when I replace the OEM shocks. You will notice the higher performance limits when you upgrade but slightly less playfulness of the car IMO.


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akiraproject24

akiraproject24

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Thread Starter #144
The reason that I went with Swift springs was 1)appearance 2)they’re linear like stock. My car is black with black wheels and it did not look good at stock height, period. Another route to closing the gap is upsizing the tires to 215. When I went the lowering spring route the rear wheels tuck in too much in my opinion. I put on some 5mm rear spacers to offset and it looks perfect for me. I think the B6’s are probably what I will upgrade when I replace the OEM shocks. You will notice the higher performance limits when you upgrade but slightly less playfulness of the car IMO.


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I'm on 215s right now. Wondering if I would be inducing rub on the swifts?
 


TemecFist

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I would NOT change it out with that few miles on it, since there is only so much fuel/acid/moisture it could have built up in that short use time frame.

On top of which; the Amsoil Sig Series is a VERY stout oil as far as starting TBN goes, so it REALLY resists that said acid, etc. about as much as is possible. [wink]
Asmoil SS is a good oil....as long as you don't use meth and e85 with it. Ask me how I know. Lol
 


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akiraproject24

akiraproject24

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Thread Starter #147
Not if they are 215/40’s like I’m running
View attachment 41936
Those ZIII look good on the oem wheels.

I've got the same tires, on a 7.5" +40 offset OZ wheel. I'm thinking I'll be OK with the swift springs. Plus if I do the powerflex rear isolators, should have a little more wiggle in the rear.
 


Dpro

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Question;

When you hit, or 'ride' the rev limiter on this car, is it supposed to be a 'stutter-like' action (which I am guessing is mainly due to spark cutting?) as on most of the naturally aspirated only rides I've owned in the past, or is it supposed to be (i.e.; 'normal' operation) the full-on 'dump' of boost feeling, ONE shot with NO 'stuttering', total power loss until back under the rev limiter result I am seeing on mine?? [dunno] [???:)] [???:)]

This is the very first turbo car I've ever owned, so I've never experienced a rev limiter's operation on one before, unlike almost everyone else on here who have owned nothing but boosted rides for their whole driving experiences. [wink]
stock it was just a power cut drop. Now on tune with s280 its that stutter . Which is kinda cool sounding. lol Ya I know everybody and their brother runs around in turbo cars hitting that stutter right before shifting going down the street. :LOL:
 


M-Sport fan

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stock it was just a power cut drop.
But on the factory tune, is it set up to be/supposed to be a drastic, total, and SHARP cut in power (spark/fuel, BOTH, whatever) when hitting the factory ECM rev limiter, vs. a gradual, softer 'drop in power' (even without any 'stutter' effect)??
 


Dpro

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But on the factory tune, is it set up to be/supposed to be a drastic, total, and SHARP cut in power (spark/fuel, BOTH, whatever) when hitting the factory ECM rev limiter, vs. a gradual, softer 'drop in power' (even without any 'stutter' effect)??
my experience was a it was a sudden cut. nothing gradual you run up it and then it cuts power suddenly. Not that its really worth doing as their is no power up their stock anyways. Though I did hit it a few times while driving aggressively in the Mountains.
 


Mikey456

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Those ZIII look good on the oem wheels.

I've got the same tires, on a 7.5" +40 offset OZ wheel. I'm thinking I'll be OK with the swift springs. Plus if I do the powerflex rear isolators, should have a little more wiggle in the rear.
Since you are running 7.5 wheels you probably don’t to run spacers. I would not run the power flex rear isolators because I’ve seen it in other cars and as a recall it jacks up the rear a bit. I’m sure the performance is fine but I don’t like the raked look IMO. Here’s the front… IMG_5919.jpg


2017 Ford Fiesta ST, Shadow Black, Recaro seats, Mountune RMM, Swift springs, 5mm rear spacers, Falken 615+ tires
 


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akiraproject24

akiraproject24

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Thread Starter #153
Changing the shift boot is a pain in the butt to put it nicely. Feeding the top of the leather and keeping it fully seated between the reverse lockout and collar was a beast. My staples are too small need wider. I also broke/lost 3 of the white plastic clips. Ordered a bag but not assembling till they come in. Also the cabin air filter is all kinds of deformed inside where it goes. Tried to straighten it out but gave up and put the cap back on. Base bushings are in, not sure how much feel they changed though. Will finish once those stupid clips get here.

Center console leather havent even attempted yet. Want to square away this mess before starting another one.

The focus cabin air filter went in like a breeze. And that one was filthy dirty.
 


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akiraproject24

akiraproject24

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Thread Starter #154
I pulled 2 clips off the lower trim piece and managed to get the hvac trim and shifter reassembled. Also put the armrest leather on. I went with black leather and silver stitching. And had the shift boot one inch shorter.
 


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akiraproject24

akiraproject24

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Thread Starter #157
Inspection and alignment scheduled for Wed.

Would it be beneficial to get some camber bolts with the wider wheels and tires? The car isnt tracked or anything like that. Just curious if it aids the alignment shop in getting the tires where they need to be.
 


Mikey456

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Inspection and alignment scheduled for Wed.

Would it be beneficial to get some camber bolts with the wider wheels and tires? The car isnt tracked or anything like that. Just curious if it aids the alignment shop in getting the tires where they need to be.
It depends… if you installed the lowering springs you already have -1 degree front camber. The alignment shop should only charge you for the front end alignment. The rear has a fixed alignment. I have the same tires on stock wheels. I would try without the camber bolts if you have lowering springs installed. If you track/auto cross or drive at the limit a lot than going with more negative camber is worth it. Otherwise you are just wearing your tires unevenly.
 


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akiraproject24

akiraproject24

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Thread Starter #159
Going to use Forscan to disable the sony digital processing. I sent an email to tuner to ask if he thinks I should unmarry the accessport and load stock tune before making the change.

Just waiting to see what he says. I'd rather not, hoping to just change a digit and write and save.
 


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akiraproject24

akiraproject24

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Thread Starter #160
I forgot how nice this Dizzy stg 2 93 was. It doesnt have the grunt of my E30 custom but very nice nonetheless.

Forscan job on hold. The lap top blue screened while getting it set up (not used in a LONG time) so decided I wasnt gonna brick my car with am unstable lap top.

I am getting a serious bug for the 70 and 80 series JDM Landcruisers. Small side note
 




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