8,000 rpm money shift :(

[obsandrew]

Hey everyone. I was pulling out into traffic today I had some room so I did a big first gear pull kept in it through 2nd gear and went right back into first again. Saw 8,000+ rpms and the car shutdown. After a few seconds I restarted the car had a wrench light on (did not notice engine light. but it could have been on I was freaking out at that exact moment) scanned codes p0339, p061c, p1674. Cleared them and let the car idle a while so I could have a heart attack and then drove home gingerly. Never reaching more then 4,000 rpm. The car is not making power. The turbo is louder then normal and the trans is definitely whining. The engine itself seems to be running smooth and quite. I tryed to get into my local dealer but no luck till Monday. Anyone have any ideas on how bad this might be? Car is completely stock except a front lip and mudflaps.

 

[airjor13]

Whoa that's not good dude

 

[obsandrew]

Whoa that's not good dude

I will never understand why they make transmissions without mechanical lock outs...when I bought the car I said to myself "that's gonna get me in trouble one day"

 

[obsandrew]

Anyone have any advice or insight on the fault codes. Or what might have happened?

 

[Butterybunz]

I would say let the dealer figure it out and don't tell them you money shifted. Probably shouldn't have even made this thread.

 

[eleven]

Crankshaft Position Sensor
Internal Control Module RPM Performance
Control Module Software Corrupted

 

[frankiefiesta]

I did this.. Transmission whined. Long story short, transmission replaced under warranty

 

[obsandrew]

I did this.. Transmission whined. Long story short, transmission replaced under warranty

Thanks [MENTION=952]frankiefiesta[/MENTION] that gives me some peace of mind.

 

[Intuit]

The nano-second you feel a push instead of pull, that left foot should've discontinued it's upward motion and went right back to the floor.

It feels like there's a large wall between 1st and 2nd shift points, one that I hit too often. You seem to have to push it right when shifting up out of 2nd. Fail to do this and you either hit wall or hit first, when shifting out of second.

Based on the codes Eleven posted, sounds like the ECU didn't trust the information it was getting, set codes, and went into limp-home mode as a result.

 

[obsandrew]

The nano-second you feel a push instead of pull, that left foot should've discontinued it's upward motion and went right back to the floor.

It feels like there's a large wall between 1st and 2nd shift points, one that I hit too often. You seem to have to push it right when shifting up out of 2nd. Fail to do this and you either hit wall or hit first, when shifting out of second.

Based on the codes Eleven posted, sounds like the ECU didn't trust the information it was getting, set codes, and went into limp-home mode as a result.

I agree with you about the "wall". That's what kind of threw off my coordination/timing of the shift. As I went up for 3rd I hit that "wall" and fished around for the gear for a split second. When it dropped into what I thought was 3rd turned out to be first. This is the first car I've owned without a mechanical lock out for first gear. I guess Im learning the hard way about awareness/quality of gear selection.

 

[2006ser]

It happened to me I was on high rpm on third and insted of shifting to 4th I shifted to 2nd. Felt like I hit a wall. My car just threw a wrench light not cep. Turned it off turned it back on. Runs better then before lol.. next day I drove it 550 mile road trip ran like a champ. I am stage 3 and tuned. Not sure if that makes a difference.. 9lonly thing I've noticed alittle odd is that my cylinder 4 I get minor negative corrections more often then before (-2.50) most of the time.

 

[obsandrew]

It happened to me I was on high rpm on third and insted of shifting to 4th I shifted to 2nd. Felt like I hit a wall. My car just threw a wrench light not cep. Turned it off turned it back on. Runs better then before lol.. next day I drove it 550 mile road trip ran like a champ. I am stage 3 and tuned. Not sure if that makes a difference.. 9lonly thing I've noticed alittle odd is that my cylinder 4 I get minor negative corrections more often then before (-2.50) most of the time.

No lack of power or a Trans whine? I drove the car again last night taking it up to 6000 rpm in 1st 2nd and 3rd. The car's not breaking up like I blew off a coupler but it does seem down on power and turbo seems to make more noise then before. I set it up to drop off at the dealer Monday morning. I had suspected a Trans issue with the car before as I found it hard to get into 1st and 3rd every once in a while. I just hope I don't have motor issues further down the road of ownership. This whole ordeal just has me freaked out

 

[Intuit]

The nano-second you feel a push instead of pull, that left foot should've discontinued it's upward motion and went right back to the floor.

It feels like there's a large wall between 1st and 2nd shift points, one that I hit too often. You seem to have to push it right when shifting up out of 2nd. Fail to do this and you either hit wall or hit first, when shifting out of second.

Based on the codes Eleven posted, sounds like the ECU didn't trust the information it was getting, set codes, and went into limp-home mode as a result.

I agree with you about the "wall". That's what kind of threw off my coordination/timing of the shift. As I went up for 3rd I hit that "wall" and fished around for the gear for a split second. When it dropped into what I thought was 3rd turned out to be first. This is the first car I've owned without a mechanical lock out for first gear. I guess Im learning the hard way about awareness/quality of gear selection.

I meant to say 1st and 3rd shift points, but it seems you understood regardless; thanks. I think it's the quality of the synchronizers that make this an easier accomplishment here. With my other stick shift transmission there's some extra resistance and then you'd almost grind going into first; where as the other gears engage smoothly at speed. For example on transmissions where reverse isn't synchronized, there's no mechanical lockout but it's still next to impossible to get into reverse moving forward. So I suspect it's just a function of the synchros on this trans. Is reverse synchronized on this trans? The way it engages, feels like it.

 

[Manta Ray]

I've never sucessfully money shifted... Always was able to punch the clutch back in to save it... I have a natural tendency to clutch in when the car doesn't feel right, and I think it's very important to have that reflex trained into your left foot. Its almost identical to the foot smash on brake pedal when you see smoking tires style short stop in front of you....

That being said I had people money shift my previous cars. It was never the same even after transmission was replaced.

 

[parapraxis24]

You can still hurt the transmission if you money shift without letting out the clutch but there should be TONS of resistance regardless.

I've never done it, but I hit the gate on the 2-3 shift far more than I would like.

 

[obsandrew]

I dropped the car off at the dealership today I'll update when I hear some news. I'm concerned about the engine 6 months from now. Right now it seems to run ok but who knows what kind stress the bearings, rods, springs etc went through. On the other side of that I've read alot of guys doing the same thing thousands of miles ago and don't seem to have any issues. I don't know much about the internals of our engines and what they can handle as far as revs go. Just keeping fingers crossed for some good results. I can't recall which fault I had at the moment but the way I understand it is if it sees a signal from the crank postion sensor that is out of spec or can't interpret the engine is shut down as a failsafe. Not sure if they cut spark or fuel or both . But I assume that's why the car shutdown.

 

[deepthinker22]

I dropped the car off at the dealership today I'll update when I hear some news. I'm concerned about the engine 6 months from now. Right now it seems to run ok but who knows what kind stress the bearings, rods, springs etc went through. On the other side of that I've read alot of guys doing the same thing thousands of miles ago and don't seem to have any issues. I don't know much about the internals of our engines and what they can handle as far as revs go. Just keeping fingers crossed for some good results. I can't recall which fault I had at the moment but the way I understand it is if it sees a signal from the crank postion sensor that is out of spec or can't interpret the engine is shut down as a failsafe. Not sure if they cut spark or fuel or both . But I assume that's why the car shutdown.

I hate digging up old threads, but how is your engine running today....if it is at all?

 

[obsandrew]

[MENTION=7915]deepthinker22[/MENTION] I've put about 10,000 miles on her since it happened. My oil has been sparkle free (every 3000 miles). I will say the exhaust seems slightly "throaty-er" since it happened. Sometimes I think I hear vavle train noise under acceleration but it could be those damn injectors (so loud)...but I haven't had a misfire, hiccup, or anything alarming since then. It's been about a year now I guess. Fingers crossed I'm gonna drive this thing off into the sunset for a few more years.

 

[Fiestarawpower]

[MENTION=3240]obsandrew[/MENTION] what did the dealer say when you took it to them? Does your trans still whine?

 

[obsandrew]

[MENTION=5442]Fiestarawpower[/MENTION] I received a new transmission under warranty. "Knock on wood" no problems since replacement. I drive the car atleast 30 miles everyday. Seems to have every bit of pep as day one of ownership. Ive changed my driving habits to make much more precise shifts and cleaned my heel toe technique up alot. As frustrating/sick to my stomach the situation was it has made me a much more aware driver.