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Advice on dragging rear brakes

Messages
15
Likes
4
Location
Vancouver, BC, Canada
#22
I just saw this come up again- my rears were dragging, and it was because the caliper pins had dried out and were not retracing.
I just pulled them out, changed pads, re-lubed the brake pins, good to go. The pads came with new boots to go around the pin.
Well according to the dealer the rear wheels spins free. A lot of codes in regards to the wheel speed sensor. Anyway it is the long weekend coming up so it didn't get fixed today.
 


Sam4

Senior Member
Messages
834
Likes
654
Location
West Chester, PA, USA
#23
I just saw this come up again- my rears were dragging, and it was because the caliper pins had dried out and were not retracing.
I just pulled them out, changed pads, re-lubed the brake pins, good to go. The pads came with new boots to go around the pin.
The rear slider brackets are like $60 from ROCK - just buy and replace. You'll need a piston retractor - $25 from Harbor Freight. You'll need jack stands - life threatening from Harbor Freight
 


Intuit

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,602
Likes
2,207
Location
South West Ohio
#24
Previous vehicle had regular reoccurring issues with warping rotors. Cleaning up and lubing the slide-mounts gradually devolved into an annual affair. Bought high-quality expensive rotor sets. I had two sets of rotors that I'd just regularly rotate with the beginning of Winter and Spring seasons. Pulsing brakes is the last thing you want on slippery surfaces, ABS or not.

My theory at the time was, locked/stiff caliper slide-mounts, warp rotors.

This later proved to be correct. Asking around for a permanent solution, mechanics and parts store clerks were like, "buy new calipers". I already know from many prior experiences that aftermarket parts were junk. They generally last a fraction of the time that OEM does.

Came up with my own permanent solution for the repeating problem.

Went to the hardware store and picked up 1.5" and 2" diameter steel-wire pipe cleaner brushes.
1613223191669.png
Hack-sawed the handles off. Inserted into a plug-in A/C *high-speed* drill.
(be careful not to burn out your motor - use smaller diameter brushes as needed)
Honed out the caliper slide-mount bores. When done, they were a tad larger.
Cleaned up and lubed the slide-pins as normal.
Got new silicon boots. Used high-temp bearing grease.
Stiff-wired the boots so they better retained the lube.
Never had them lock up again. Never warped another rotor.
 


Last edited:

felopr

Senior Member
Messages
815
Likes
370
Location
JD
#25
Previous vehicle had regular reoccurring issues with warping rotors. Cleaning up and lubing the slide-mounts gradually devolved into an annual affair. Bought high-quality expensive rotor sets. I had two sets of rotors that I'd just regularly rotate with the beginning of Winter and Spring seasons. Pulsing brakes is the last thing you want on slippery surfaces, ABS or not.

My theory at the time was, locked/stiff caliper slide-mounts, warp rotors.

This later proved to be correct. Asking around for a permanent solution, mechanics and parts store clerks were like, "buy new calipers". I already know from many prior experiences that aftermarket parts were junk. They generally last a fraction of the time that OEM does.

Came up with my own permanent solution for the repeating problem.

Went to the hardware store and picked up 1.5" and 2" diameter steel-wire pipe cleaner brushes.
View attachment 38247
Hack-sawed the handles off. Inserted into a plug-in A/C *high-speed* drill.
(be careful not to burn out your motor - use smaller diameter brushes as needed)
Honed out the caliper slide-mount bores. When done, they were a tad larger.
Cleaned up and lubed the slide-pins as normal.
Got new silicon boots. Used high-temp bearing grease.
Stiff-wired the boots so they better retained the lube.
Never had them lock up again. Never warped another rotor.
I use those brushes that are similar to the one's that are used to clean baby bottles
i spend some time cleaning it fully with brake cleaner
 


Messages
36
Likes
69
Location
Canada
#26
My rear brakes were dragging at 43,000kms and the sliders were seized and corroded. Please tell me I’m not the only one to find this.
 


PunkST

2000 Post Club
Messages
2,239
Likes
1,413
Location
Menasha
#28
Mine did as well. Ford didnt put enough lubrication in during assembly. I cleaned mine and bored out the holes with PB blaster and a wire brush. Lol. I nee dto get in and re grease them every 6 months just to make sure its good for summer and winter.
 


Intuit

3000 Post Club
Messages
3,602
Likes
2,207
Location
South West Ohio
#29
Seems like these vehicles comparably use a lot more rear brake. I actually wore those out before the front.

We used to have to just deal with road salt and eventually sodium-chloride. Now we have salt-brine and salt dust on the roads non-stop for a couple of months out of the year. Literally gets in every nook and cranny. Beet juice helps it stick around even longer. Get a nice pitiful drizzle and near sixty degree temps is the perfect storm. We rust out vehicles more thoroughly and efficiently than ever before. That pin is just a tiny taste of what's coming.
 




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