All 4 brakes stuck after pad change

[D1JL]

Agreed on the method when changing pads/compressing pistons... I would have had I known better. I however had more issues flushing the fluid using the old pedal pump method. Every brake bled had their bleeders open. I guess using a vac pump should be the only method when flushing fluid?

In the future try this method.
Brake Bleed

 

[Erick_V]

Did you open the bleeder on each caliper when cycling the ABS through FORScan? Also, did you replace the switch? It's unclear, for me at least, exactly what was done in what sequence and a little more info may help others pinpoint your problem.

I have thought about using this method through FORScan when I do my rear brakes and new fluid:

View: https://youtu.be/YDlRxTjeWcM

 

[jayrod1980]

Remaining problem is definitely related to the switch, but I don't think it's bent. Pedal has to go down about 1/3 of it's travel before brake lights come on, and before the cruise control cancels. I also get the "hill assist not available" message the first time I press the brake that far.

Car acts normal if I brake lightly, but they'll drag slightly when I push it the pedal enough to get the brake lights to come on. Then I can pull up on the pedal, and they'll release.

So in summary, there's (at least) 2 problems during this pad-change:
* All 4 brakes would lock up tight after initial pad change. Probably because I pushed the fluid back up the lines, rather than through the bleeders. Fix for that was ABS needed to be auto-bled via ForScan.
* Brake light switch A is faulty in some way. I've ordered a new switch.


That's happening now.

Fingers crossed nothing is bent. Doesn't look like it, going to replace the switch first.

I realized my brake light doing the same and the only thing I think I may have done is either damage the switch by pulling up on the pedal, or the pulling actually bent the metal holding it back some.

Did the switch replacement fix your issues?