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ATP downpipe hardware

re-rx7

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#1
Just got my ATP downpipe in the mail. Wow! Beautiful piece. Anyway it came with some studs and nuts? Do I have to remove the factory studs? 5 in total. I'm guessing for the catback and turbo connection. Any info would be great!
 


RAAMaudio

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#2
Use the ATP

The factory parts at the turbo are bolts, studs are much better and far easier to install the DP with.

I built a DIY DP and exhaust and used their studs and nuts there, not sure what you have to work with in that area but I would use them if you can:)
 


OP
re-rx7

re-rx7

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Thread Starter #3
Looks like the nuts are crushed a bit I guess to keep from backing off.
 


RAAMaudio

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And they do not seize, at least very often, if taken on and off a few times they can start doing that.
 


OP
re-rx7

re-rx7

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And they do not seize, at least very often, if taken on and off a few times they can start doing that.
Thanks for all of you're input Raam. DId you just hand tighten the studs in? Also they gave me two large studs for the catback. Seems easier to just use a bolt and nut.
 


OP
re-rx7

re-rx7

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Install tomorrow! Whoo!! hope there is a noticable difference!
 


Sekred

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#7
Thanks for all of you're input Raam. DId you just hand tighten the studs in? Also they gave me two large studs for the catback. Seems easier to just use a bolt and nut.
Hi mate.

Anti-seize and torque the studs, you need to stretch the studs when installing to get the benefit of the higher clamping pressure compared to a bolt.
 


OP
re-rx7

re-rx7

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Hi mate.

Anti-seize and torque the studs, you need to stretch the studs when installing to get the benefit of the higher clamping pressure compared to a bolt.
Thank you for the knowledge.
 


RAAMaudio

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#9
I like to go back and check all the bolts, nuts, etc, manifold to exhaust after heating everything up really well and then a few days later check again, after doing that I have never had one come loose.
 


OP
re-rx7

re-rx7

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How was the improvement over the stock DP? What can I expect?
 


RAAMaudio

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I cannot answer that as I drove my car about 5 miles then on a lift for major surgery for 7 months but others have done things in steps but I can say the stock unit is horribly restrictive so it has to help quite a bit I would imagine!
 


OP
re-rx7

re-rx7

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Thread Starter #13
Just ordered a SCE copper flange gasket for the DP to Catback section. Seems I have a small leak. Watter dripping between the flanges.
 


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I am going to be installing this very soon. Where do you guys get the torque specs for all this stuff?
 


RAAMaudio

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For me most all torque settings are by feel but a million bolts in a lifetime can lead to that....just nice and snug then a bit more before it would break...then get it nice and hot and do it again then check a few days later...when it comes to dramatic heat and cold cycles always best to double check, triple check, etc, after that I have never had one come loose.

As for the actual specs, wish I could help.
 


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#16
For me most all torque settings are by feel but a million bolts in a lifetime can lead to that....just nice and snug then a bit more before it would break...then get it nice and hot and do it again then check a few days later...when it comes to dramatic heat and cold cycles always best to double check, triple check, etc, after that I have never had one come loose.

As for the actual specs, wish I could help.
Yeah thanks anyways. The last car I worked on had a manual with a torque spec for every bolt on the car.
 


RAAMaudio

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#17
I have had such books as well and have two high end torque wrenches and still torque the most important parts for safety and lug nuts allways and recheck after the first drive and at least twice on a track day as well as critical engine and drive train parts but not much else.
 


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