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ATP Vacuum block install

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#1
Installed my ATP MAP adapter/vacuum block in about 5 minutes, but here is a short how-to for those wondering how it goes in.



Tools:
T-30 Torx
8 mm socket and ratchet

Remove the engine cover

Right on top of the intake manifold on the timing belt side of the engine is the MAP sensor.



Remove the T-30 Torx bolt and pull the sensor up and out of the manifold.



The MAP block comes with a new longer bolt because of the thickness of the block.



Insert the vacuum block where the MAP sensor used to be. I had to turn the nipple 180 degrees because it pointed right at the engine cover post.



Once the block is on, put the MAP sensor on top of the block and bolt it down with the new 8mm hex head bolt. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN IT! The intake manifold is plastic and can crack. Then attach your vacuum hose.



The cover will not attach to the post by the vacuum block. It rests on it. Time will tell if vibrations cause it to wear in to the under side of the cover. There is some sound proofing foam on the under side that might help.



Enjoy your new boost gauge (or BOV)!

https://vimeo.com/121738052
 


rodmoe

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#4
Good Job I have that same block sitting in the basment EFR parts bin going to use it for the BOV vacuum signal.
 


CanadianGuy

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#5
will be doing this copying your setup. Its flattery!! One question where did you end up going through the firewall?
 


OP
Natedogg
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Thread Starter #6
Thanks guys. There is a giant grommet where the harness goes from the engine bay in to the cabin up behind the clutch petal. Poke a hole with a screw driver so the hole is big enough for the hose (don't get too close and hit the wires), get a length of solid wire, feed it through the hole you made from the engine bay side, run the hose over the wire from the inside, keep feeding and it will follow the wire through the hole in to the engine bay. Careful of kinks and make sure you keep it out of the clutch mechanism's way so it doesn't rub.
 


D1JL

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#7
That's funny.
I didn't get the screw with mine.




Dave
 


westcoaST

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#8
Great install. How do the vacuum numbers compare with your Cobb AP? I'm thinking about doing the same install. Tell us about your gauge and gauge pod. Price and where you picked them up? Can you pull the post (is it threaded?), and extend it so the engine cover still clicks on the post?
 


OP
Natedogg
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Thread Starter #9
I don't have a Cobb AP, but I have an Innovate OT-2 I can plug in and watch with my phone. I haven't seen it go over 18 PSI of boost though but the vacuum numbers look to be what I would expect. Cold idle is 16 in/hg, warm idle is 21, no throttle coast is 25-28.

The gauge is a Glowshift GS-T01. Mine is the old style because I bought it a couple of years ago. They have since changed the design a bit.

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Tinted-30psi-boost-vacuum-gauge.aspx

The pod is this one from Glowshift:

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Universal-Single-Gauge-Swivel-Pod.aspx

The tube I used is UL 94v2 compliant, good to 28" of vacuum/128 PSI, flame retardant, and good to 180*F. Part# 9149T11 1/4" OD black:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/137/=w8y19s

I may remove the 90* barb fitting and replace it with a push connect fitting for a cleaner install rather than having the silicone connector.

The engine cover post is molded in to the intake manifold and can't be raised or removed.
 


RAAMaudio

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#10
Great install, write up and info:)

I was going to mention you can get aluminum barb or push fittings that would look nicer and drop a bit of weight.

(yes, I am that anal about weight, whole car approach can yield significant numbers)
 


westcoaST

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#11
Great install, write up and info:)

I was going to mention you can get aluminum barb or push fittings that would look nicer and drop a bit of weight.

(yes, I am that anal about weight, whole car approach can yield significant numbers)
Where can I pick up push fittings, Rick? I'd like that approach.
 


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Gloucester, VA
#13
I have the vacuum block in this thread, but removed it because it doesn't allow the engine cover to fit properly. There is no reason to modify something basic to find a vacuum/boost source. I tapped into the fuel vent/vacuum source right at the throttle body. It is virtually invisible with no negatives. I can't load the photo right now but it is in another post I made.
 


RAAMaudio

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#14
Engine cover?

I ditched that the first few days I had the car. The engine is not pretty, the cover blocks a bit of noise but it is dead weight meaning it hurts performance and I take out all the weight I can and add sound deadening carefully as needed to make up any loss from such a part.

But that is me, 1 year, 2.2k miles, car is apart again waiting the tubular manifold and DP for the EFR and big IC, etc.....I am a bit extreme but it is who I am and will always be even though I told myself this car would not get many mods.....I should of known better:)
 


rodmoe

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#15
Engine cover?

But that is me, 1 year, 2.2k miles, car is apart again waiting the tubular manifold and DP for the EFR and big IC, etc.....I am a bit extreme but it is who I am and will always be even though I told myself this car would not get many mods.....I should of known better:)
You are not the only one .. hehe
 


RAAMaudio

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#17
I had some proper fittings in the past but not finding a listing in a quick search now but something like this is what I had in mind but proper size of course.

Barb is better in a way but also this in the right size if you do like me and make a clamp from SS wire.

But that is more for hose, for hard but flexible tubing so it does not expand at all or barely so more accurate readings a true push on is best, I will see what I can find.



These look interesting.



1/4 inch so a bit big perhaps but others might be found or use 1/4 and adapt at the gauge?
 


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