bad factory damper?

[M-Sport fan]

Is there any way to tell if a factory front damper is bad/going bad, other than taking it off and dyno-ing it, or doing the totally inaccurate 'corner push' test thing?
There are NO visible external leaks anywhere, but it did take some HUGE, bottoming out/crashing into the bump stops type hits on some ARA rally stage roads I was working on last year.

This is the passenger side front, and I question it because the 205/50-16 Neo Gens on Dekagrams rubs badly on just that side (which took those hits as well), but only at high steering input angles, while braking at the same time, at low speeds (like pulling into a parking spot), but also when backing out even at low speeds with the same steering angles it makes a loud 'creaking' scraping sound.

Granted, the Neo Gens are overly wide in both tread width and section width in that size, and then they are stretched even wider by the 8" wide wheels, but why only on that side do they rub?? (WHY I suspect a blown out damper. )

I have yet to check the factory sway bar end links, but IF they were the culprit, wouldn't there be problems/loud noises ALL of the time, especially during higher speed, high g turns?

I am afraid to even think about putting the 225/45-16 A052s with Dekas on the car at this point.

 

[the duke]

Just buy B6s already!

 

[M-Sport fan]

Just buy B6s already!

IF someone made a stock ride height, linear rate spring with a higher rate than stock, they would be on the car with B6es already.

As it is, if I hear any more examples of the Swift Spec Rs on B6es NOT lowering the car at all, I will go with that, since every suspension manufacturer offering anything for this car has given me the total run around on any non-lowering coil overs, every/any time I inquire about them (they just do not want to be bothered, at all it seems).

 

[the duke]

Ive seen too much inconsistency with swifts to trust the .5" drop or less. I'm this close to making a set of .25" spacers for the strut tophats. I just need to find someone with a mill. The CAD is easy, making the part is hard with no tools.

INterestingly while poking around I was reading that in a high-pressure damper approx. 100psi is supposedly worth about 10 lb/in increase to the damper assembly. THis might be why one of the reasons Bilsteins seem to raise cars more than Konis.

 

[Fiestig]

If it is blown out you could have someone drive down the road next to you and watching to see if it has excess movement. If it is completely blown it will have a ton of extra movement just in regular driving. Far more noticeable visually at hwy speeds

 

[Ford ST]

If it's totally blown the push test can show it.
My daily driver blew out the driver side and it was like a waterbed.

In my honest opinions the push test only shows if they are totally shot.

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