BG Engine Oil. Who’s Tried it?

[HAHAFiST]

Has anyone given this a try yet that can provide some lab results? Same price as Amsoil. I’m looking for something little more resistant of breaking down from ethanol.

https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopif...4-2019-fiesta-st?_pos=24&_sid=b35cc392f&_ss=r

 

[cidsamuth]

So, not an answer to your specific question ….. but you would need an oil analysis to know if it’s any good anyway. “I use it and I love it” isn’t going to tell you much.

That said, BG fluids are generally considered top tier. Where I like them … they offer a lifetime warranty on parts and labor when you use their schedule and use an authorized shop for the work.

While I don’t utilize that for engine oil, I do use it for the trans and PTU on my daily (Taurus SHO). Basically, if you get the shop to do the flush before 50k miles and then again every 30k, they warranty the trans and PTU for life. They have something similar for engines and their engine oil, albeit a different change interval is required.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Has anyone given this a try yet? Same price as Amsoil. I’m looking for something little more resistant of breaking down from ethanol.

https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopif...4-2019-fiesta-st?_pos=24&_sid=b35cc392f&_ss=r

That stuff is almost as thick as the white funnel bottle Red Line 5W-30, going by the HTHSV spec. (The Red Line was 3.8 last time I ever checked it.)

I wonder what the starting TBN is and what they use for base stock composition and for their anti-friction/anti-wear additive pack. ??

 

[HAHAFiST]

So, not an answer to your specific question ….. but you would need an oil analysis to know if it’s any good anyway. “I use it and I love it” isn’t going to tell you much.

That said, BG fluids are generally considered top tier. Where I like them … they offer a lifetime warranty on parts and labor when you use their schedule and use an authorized shop for the work.

While I don’t utilize that for engine oil, I do use it for the trans and PTU on my daily (Taurus SHO). Basically, if you get the shop to do the flush before 50k miles and then again every 30k, they warranty the trans and PTU for life. They have something similar for engines and their engine oil, albeit a different change interval is required.

No, that's fair. It was a lazy question. Yeah i'm curious if anyone will have lab results for it. I'll edit the post. I've used lots of BG so I'm willing to give it a try, but I'm also the guy that changes his oil ever 2.5-3k in which you could argue Mobil1 or Castrol edge is sufficient, I've been running e30 (on and off) since 2020 though so thinking i should be more concious of oils with better NOACK ratings.

 

[HAHAFiST]

That stuff is almost as thick as the white funnel bottle Red Line 5W-30, going by the HTHSV spec. (The Red Line was 3.8 last time I ever checked it.)

I wonder what the starting TBN is and what they use for base stock composition and for their anti-friction/anti-wear additive pack. ??

I saw a lot of your posts relating to oil. What have you been sticking with and are you using ethanol? have you had lab lests done to see if the oil your using is holding up to the ethanol ok?

 

[M-Sport fan]

There is NO corn likker available within almost 60 miles of where I am, so no, I cannot use any ethanol, and when I eventually get a Monster Tune, I probably will not even ask for an optional E30 tune at all.

I switched to the LiquiMoly Molygen on this current oil change interval, but I am thinking of going back to the (yes, $$$$, even more than the LM stuff!) Ravenol DXG next change, due to it's guaranteed PAO base stock use (with maybe even some POE esters thrown in for good measure??), slightly better starting TBN, innovative tungsten and trimer molybdenum additive package, and much better, very low volatility rate.

The latter is desirable not just if one is using ethanol, but even for any gas turbo direct injection setups like ours, in general, even on 93 E10.

I do wish that BG included the starting TBN on the specs above.

I do not bother with any oil analysis since I do not do extended oil change intervals (even on great oil which is fully capable of that), try not to let the car idle very long, typically do not drive in much stop and go anymore, and run factory heat range plugs on a factory tune, so I'd rather just put that coin into the next oil/filter change coffers.

Basically though, unless you are doing A LOT of stop and go commuter traffic, very short tripping, or idling constantly with the E30 in the tank, changing out any good off the shelf top tier readily available and affordable synthetic labeled oil (even if they are really a Group 3++ super hydrocracked/Visom, or GTL base stock, and not a 'real' synthetic Group 4/5) before 3K miles, you have nothing to worry about.

The Pennzoil Platinum ULTRA seems to be very good stuff, as it's GTL (gas to liquid) base stock is very durable as far as shear and dilution go, and may soon prove to be as great as the Group 4/5 PAOs and POEs.
Better than average additive package as well.

The problem is it is only sold at the auto chain stores (where it is sometimes included in their sales), or via the internet from Wal Mart, NOT on the shelves at Wal Mart.

 

[gtx3076]

I run E30 almost exclusively, year round, and have for years. I've used kirkland's synthetic, and Pennzoil Platinum, and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Haven't had any analyzed, but I put a lot of highway miles on the car with plenty of WOT and change about every 7k miles.

 

[HAHAFiST]

There is NO corn likker available within almost 60 miles of where I am, so no, I cannot use any ethanol, and when I eventually get a Monster Tune, I probably will not even ask for an optional E30 tune at all.

I switched to the LiquiMoly Molygen on this current oil change interval, but I am thinking of going back to the (yes, $$$$, even more than the LM stuff!) Ravenol DXG next change, due to it's guaranteed PAO base stock use (with maybe even some POE esters thrown in for good measure??), slightly better starting TBN, innovative tungsten and trimer molybdenum additive package, and much better, very low volatility rate.

The latter is desirable not just if one is using ethanol, but even for any gas turbo direct injection setups like ours, in general, even on 93 E10.

I do wish that BG included the starting TBN on the specs above.

I do not bother with any oil analysis since I do not do extended oil change intervals (even on great oil which is fully capable of that), try not to let the car idle very long, typically do not drive in much stop and go anymore, and run factory heat range plugs on a factory tune, so I'd rather just put that coin into the next oil/filter change coffers.

Basically though, unless you are doing A LOT of stop and go commuter traffic, very short tripping, or idling constantly with the E30 in the tank, changing out any good off the shelf top tier readily available and affordable synthetic labeled oil (even if they are really a Group 3++ super hydrocracked/Visom, or GTL base stock, and not a 'real' synthetic Group 4/5) before 3K miles, you have nothing to worry about.

The Pennzoil Platinum ULTRA seems to be very good stuff, as it's GTL (gas to liquid) base stock is very durable as far as shear and dilution go, and may soon prove to be as great as the Group 4/5 PAOs and POEs.
Better than average additive package as well.

The problem is it is only sold at the auto chain stores (where it is sometimes included in their sales), or via the internet from Wal Mart, NOT on the shelves at Wal Mart.

I’ve used castrol esge for years now, running e30 on and off, and change every 3k. I assume I’m good.

 

[WannabeST]

I haven't done any sort of analysis. FWIW. I run valvoline VR1 in my E85 mustang. I tried a couple different oils, no actual analysis, but the valvoline stayed the most thick. Some other oils would become very water like and I did not like the idea of my oil being like water at 8k rpm in a V8

 

[TyphoonFiST]

There is NO corn likker available within almost 60 miles of where I am, so no, I cannot use any ethanol, and when I eventually get a Monster Tune, I probably will not even ask for an optional E30 tune at all.

I switched to the LiquiMoly Molygen on this current oil change interval, but I am thinking of going back to the (yes, $$$$, even more than the LM stuff!) Ravenol DXG next change, due to it's guaranteed PAO base stock use (with maybe even some POE esters thrown in for good measure??), slightly better starting TBN, innovative tungsten and trimer molybdenum additive package, and much better, very low volatility rate.

The latter is desirable not just if one is using ethanol, but even for any gas turbo direct injection setups like ours, in general, even on 93 E10.

I do wish that BG included the starting TBN on the specs above.

I do not bother with any oil analysis since I do not do extended oil change intervals (even on great oil which is fully capable of that), try not to let the car idle very long, typically do not drive in much stop and go anymore, and run factory heat range plugs on a factory tune, so I'd rather just put that coin into the next oil/filter change coffers.

Basically though, unless you are doing A LOT of stop and go commuter traffic, very short tripping, or idling constantly with the E30 in the tank, changing out any good off the shelf top tier readily available and affordable synthetic labeled oil (even if they are really a Group 3++ super hydrocracked/Visom, or GTL base stock, and not a 'real' synthetic Group 4/5) before 3K miles, you have nothing to worry about.

The Pennzoil Platinum ULTRA seems to be very good stuff, as it's GTL (gas to liquid) base stock is very durable as far as shear and dilution go, and may soon prove to be as great as the Group 4/5 PAOs and POEs.
Better than average additive package as well.

The problem is it is only sold at the auto chain stores (where it is sometimes included in their sales), or via the internet from Wal Mart, NOT on the shelves at Wal Mart.

Ive found it at the Local wally world where i live* I just switched to ravenol 5w30 dxg*