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Big maintenance coming up - LSD Install, clutch, flywheel, clutch slave, axles. Am I missing anything/what else should I have done while in there??

CSM

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#1
I'm having a lot of work done on my Fiesta next month when I'm on vacation. Been meaning to get the diff installed, and might as well do clutch/flywheel as well. CV / Axles starting to knock so having them replaced too.

Take a look at the list below. Am I missing anything? Should I have anything else worked on while in there? Local Ford mechanic known in the ST community is installing:
- Quaife LSD w/ Ford Install kit
- OEM Clutch, OEM Flywheel, and OEM slave cylinder
- New OEM Axles L/R

Just wondering if there are easy to replace wear items that should also be replaced while the above is getting worked on.
 


dhminer

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#2
Now that's a list! Don't think I'd do anything else unless a new final drive ratio is appealing. Looking forward to hearing how it goes. I'd send my car up there for an LSD if all goes well.
 


HardBoiledEgg

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#3
I'D BE DOING BEARINGS TOO CAUSE I'M ANAL

ONCE MINE FINALLY GOES UNDER THE KNIFE I WILL GET NEW SYNCROS AND BEARINGS
 


OP
CSM

CSM

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Thread Starter #4
I'D BE DOING BEARINGS TOO CAUSE I'M ANAL

ONCE MINE FINALLY GOES UNDER THE KNIFE I WILL GET NEW SYNCROS AND BEARINGS
Which bearings? I think my install kit came with new bearings, or at least races....I need to double check
 


HardBoiledEgg

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BASICALLY BE DOING A FULL REBUILD

I'VE BEEN THROUGH ONE TRANS AND I FEEL THE SECOND ONE COMING. I'VE TRIED NEW FLUIDS VS LAST TIME AND I'M JUST THE LUCKY GUY. TRANS IS STARING TO WHINE AGAIN UNDERLOAD IN SOME GEARS. SO WHAT BEARINGS? NOT SURE. THATS FOR MY TRANS GUYS TO ORDER SORRY I'M NO HELP LOL
 


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#8
While your doing this might as well as replace the front struts and wheel bearings. Could also go into the transmission and replace all of the bearings but in all honesty those should be good for another 100K miles. Also make sure to drain the transmission completely while checking the current fluid for metal fines with a magnet. BTW, use a neodymium magnet if you can find one (old hard drives are good source for these) and drain all the oil into a new drain pan then sweep the magnet around in the fluid. If you see a lot of whiskers around the sharp corners that's a good indication a rebuild is in order. If you find almost nothing they you are good to just change the fluid. BTW you can also find neodymium magnets for sale on the net, if going that route look for a round plated bar type about 3/8 to 1/2 inch diameter about 3/4 inch long. BTW, these are great picker uppers so having one epoxied into an aluminum tube of the right diameter make for a very handy tool. Just be aware they are strong enough to draw blood if you get pinched between the magnet and plate of steel.
 


haste

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#9
Input shaft seal while you are at it. Part # AV6Z-7048-A

The case half where the input shaft seal is located has to be lifted off from the rest for install. I wouldn't feel comfortable reusing it.

The seal is behind the slave cylinder.

Capture.JPG
 


M-Sport fan

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#10
While your doing this might as well as replace the front struts and wheel bearings. Could also go into the transmission and replace all of the bearings but in all honesty those should be good for another 100K miles. Also make sure to drain the transmission completely while checking the current fluid for metal fines with a magnet. BTW, use a neodymium magnet if you can find one (old hard drives are good source for these) and drain all the oil into a new drain pan then sweep the magnet around in the fluid. If you see a lot of whiskers around the sharp corners that's a good indication a rebuild is in order. If you find almost nothing they you are good to just change the fluid. BTW you can also find neodymium magnets for sale on the net, if going that route look for a round plated bar type about 3/8 to 1/2 inch diameter about 3/4 inch long. BTW, these are great picker uppers so having one epoxied into an aluminum tube of the right diameter make for a very handy tool. Just be aware they are strong enough to draw blood if you get pinched between the magnet and plate of steel.
WHY I use a Dimple drain plug for both the engine sump pan, and the transaxle drain plug. [wink]
 


OP
CSM

CSM

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Thread Starter #11
I've been using a dimple plug in the trans for a while. I swap fluid every 25k (its so easy why not?). Not too worried about fluid, its looked great every time. And front struts aren't THAT old, but I am going to swap for KW coilovers next season.



Thanks for the input shaft seal idea and the wheel bearings, I'll pick those up.
 


Sekred

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#12
At 90k I would do the Input and Output shaft front and rear bearings while you have the transmission out and disassembled.
Its not a lot of time to replace the bearings, about 1 hours work and a couple of hours to dismantle and assemble the transmission compare to doing the LSD only.
 


OP
CSM

CSM

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Thread Starter #13
At 90k I would do the Input and Output shaft front and rear bearings while you have the transmission out and disassembled.
Its not a lot of time to replace the bearings, about 1 hours work and a couple of hours to dismantle and assemble the transmission compare to doing the LSD only.
Do you have part numbers or availability info? Tasca is showing these as being discontinued.
 


Sekred

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#14
I am in the process of rebuilding my transmission at the moment. Ordered all the gears I needed from FordPartsGiant in the US, about half the cost buying these parts in Australia. I had the same problem with the bearings shown as discontinued so I can't help with part numbers. No problem getting the bearings in Australia.
 


haste

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#15
There use to be a kit available AV6Z-7L149-A but according to my dealer is currently on indefinite backorder.

I had to order everything separate. The following parts will take care of the same side of the main shaft and primary countershaft:

AV6Z-7L149-A - Bearing retainer assembly. Order TWO of these as both shafts have one. (cost me $125 each, OUCH!)
AV6Z-7049-C - Retaining bolt for input shaft retainer bearing(special thread)
AV6Z-7049-B - Retaining bolt for output shaft retainer bearing(special thread)

The following are for the opposite sides of the main shaft and primary countershaft:

AV6Z-7065-A - (main shaft)input shaft bearing
DV6Z-7065-A - secondary output shaft bearing

There are also bearings on the secondary output shaft(reverse). These show backordered EVERYWHERE. You might be ok not replacing these.

AV6Z-7025-A - local ford dealership showed ONE in the entire USA. I was unlucky and didn't get it. it is now currently showing backorder, supplier to be determined. I used the number off the bearing and ordered it from https://3bgsupply.com/ I'll post in here if it is the correct bearing when I receive it...

AV6Z-7025-B - I was lucky and found one of these on EBAY brand new. I could not get it from the dealership.

The only other bearings are needle bearings on the shafts but I don't think you should worry about those. There is also a needle bearing for the shift tower selector but I wouldn't bother replacing it.

Hope this helps.
 


shouldbeasy

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#16
If you need a set of bearings / races let me know - I have a NTN set from a local vendor (industrial sales so it's true NTN) and I can sell you those if you can't find any (as I couldn't an haste has alluded too).
 


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#17
BASICALLY BE DOING A FULL REBUILD

I'VE BEEN THROUGH ONE TRANS AND I FEEL THE SECOND ONE COMING. I'VE TRIED NEW FLUIDS VS LAST TIME AND I'M JUST THE LUCKY GUY. TRANS IS STARING TO WHINE AGAIN UNDERLOAD IN SOME GEARS. SO WHAT BEARINGS? NOT SURE. THATS FOR MY TRANS GUYS TO ORDER SORRY I'M NO HELP LOL
So if my 2016 St has 11k miles and I want to get an lsd, do I still need anything other than the lsd? And you seem like you know a thing or two on the matter, what's your suggestion as to what lsd brand to go with and why, because I just keep hearing quaife but this is from people who've never had an lsd in their car and never from 1st nor 2nd hand experience. I'm planning on sourcing out an installer in my area, southern california btw.
 


M-Sport fan

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#18
And you seem like you know a thing or two on the matter, what's your suggestion as to what lsd brand to go with and why, because I just keep hearing quaife but this is from people who've never had an lsd in their car and never from 1st nor 2nd hand experience. I'm planning on sourcing out an installer in my area, southern California btw.
The problem is that no one has had multiple different limited slips installed in their FiST to be able to tell you 'the best', or even what the real world, experiential differences are, as this is so much more involved/co$tly/time consuming than a tune, an exhaust system, intercooler, or even an aftermarket turbo.

Everyone who has done one on here just installs it and forgets it for the most part. [wink]

So unless you get multiple different cars, with similar power/mods, but all of the different brands/types of diffs lined up, and test drive each of them yourself, you just have to pick one and go with it.

Yup, I am one of those who does not have one installed YET, but when I do I am planning on the Wavetrac, or the Drexler (if they even still make it for the IB6 anymore [dunno]), to be fully anecdotal. [wink]
 


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#19
So if my 2016 St has 11k miles and I want to get an lsd, do I still need anything other than the lsd? And you seem like you know a thing or two on the matter, what's your suggestion as to what lsd brand to go with and why, because I just keep hearing quaife but this is from people who've never had an lsd in their car and never from 1st nor 2nd hand experience. I'm planning on sourcing out an installer in my area, southern california btw.
As M-Sport fan said, you buy one and go with it. Ultimately the desired outcome is the same with all of them. When I decided to buy an LSD (which is still awaiting install) I went with M-Factory. It's easy to say it's the budget focused LSD and that's fair if you just look at price. For me, it has a lifetime warranty and does what I want, for considerably better value.

You will also need the Ford Differential Installation kit. It's approximately $215.00. If you're paying to have it installed, factor $1200 - $1500 for the installation.
 


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