• Sign Up! To view all forums and unlock additional cool features

    Welcome to the #1 Fiesta ST Forum and Fiesta ST community dedicated to Fiesta ST owners and enthusiasts. Register for an account, it's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Fiesta ST Forum today!


Bilstein B14 (PSS) vs Bilstein B14: Anyone know the specific differences?

kevinatfms

Senior Member
Messages
873
Likes
924
Location
Germantown
#21
Thank You for doing the leg work on this. Now that I'm getting close to needing tires, I want to change out the wheels, and have very limited options due to the offsets. I'm guessing that I will not be able to just buy the front dampers for the ST kit. Do you have contact info for someone at Bilstein that you've been working with? It's clear that there is lots of confusion between these two kits, because they are named the exact same with the only exception being the part number. As noted in post #3 this is as high as the regular fiesta kit goes on the ST. When I bought it, it was sold from modbargins as the Fiesta ST kit, and I did not know better at the time (2017). I'm just going to order the wheels I want, with the idea that I will also be buying a new coilover kit. I'd rather do that, then to order wheels that I think will work but not really what I want, then end up not working and I still need to do the suspension.
My contact at Bilstein is the same tech number on their website. Just keep asking questions until they don't know and send you to someone else deeper into the Thyssen-Krupp wormhole. Also, as stated above, the front damper is different for the ST kit by the threading. So there is a reason for the different part number. From the TUV information, the valving was the same, spring was the same and the damper diameter is the same(both monotube).

Both B14 kits are perfectly fine for an ST model as before they had a specific ST kit the original "non-ST" part number covered both for autocross/racing purposes for all Fiesta models. For instance, i am going to be running the non-ST kit on my car and am going with the b-spec spring rates(500/500) from Chris Taylor Racing. The damper/spring combo i am going to be using could be used on both types of the B14 front dampers. The threading of the ST specific damper would hinder its total drop allowed(15mm difference between the dampers) versus the non-ST kit. So if you want the "lowz" status you would really want the non-ST B14 kit as the front can technically go lower than the ST specific kit.

I dont want the "lowz" or "sTaNcE" though as the car is purely a track car at this point. So i will keep it at a reasonable height to keep bump steer in check while allowing me to run significantly higher spring rates than the 280/230 rates that come with the B14 kits.

What size wheel/tire setup? What do you plan to do with the car?
 


Messages
24
Likes
9
Location
Milton
#22
My contact at Bilstein is the same tech number on their website. Just keep asking questions until they don't know and send you to someone else deeper into the Thyssen-Krupp wormhole. Also, as stated above, the front damper is different for the ST kit by the threading. So there is a reason for the different part number. From the TUV information, the valving was the same, spring was the same and the damper diameter is the same(both monotube).

Both B14 kits are perfectly fine for an ST model as before they had a specific ST kit the original "non-ST" part number covered both for autocross/racing purposes for all Fiesta models. For instance, i am going to be running the non-ST kit on my car and am going with the b-spec spring rates(500/500) from Chris Taylor Racing. The damper/spring combo i am going to be using could be used on both types of the B14 front dampers. The threading of the ST specific damper would hinder its total drop allowed(15mm difference between the dampers) versus the non-ST kit. So if you want the "lowz" status you would really want the non-ST B14 kit as the front can technically go lower than the ST specific kit.

I dont want the "lowz" or "sTaNcE" though as the car is purely a track car at this point. So i will keep it at a reasonable height to keep bump steer in check while allowing me to run significantly higher spring rates than the 280/230 rates that come with the B14 kits.

What size wheel/tire setup? What do you plan to do with the car?
Just bought the TD 1.2 15x8 and I'm going with the 205/50R15 This a daily driver of sorts. I doubt that they will fit with the current non ST B14 kit, but I'm going to wait to order a new coilover kit until I rule it out.
 


kevinatfms

Senior Member
Messages
873
Likes
924
Location
Germantown
#23
Just bought the TD 1.2 15x8 and I'm going with the 205/50R15 This a daily driver of sorts. I doubt that they will fit with the current non ST B14 kit, but I'm going to wait to order a new coilover kit until I rule it out.
They will easily fit with 205/50's.

I run 225/45R15's on 15x8 Dekagrams on Swift Spec R's currently without rub and i just assembled my B14 coilovers. The 205/50 is even smaller than the 225/45's and i am 100% certain they wont rub with the B14 kit. You are good to go.
 


kevinatfms

Senior Member
Messages
873
Likes
924
Location
Germantown
#26
That would be sweet, but so far you're the only person who thinks that they will fit. This is as high as the front goes.
You are on a 23.4" tire in that photo if that is the stock sized 205/40R17 tire on a stock 17x7 wheel. Remove .4" of an inch from your current tire for a 205/50R15 on a 15x8" wheel.

It is literally the exact same setup as a b-spec race car.

Bilstein references 25mm lowering up front and 20mm lowering in the rear. That is less than an inch...

For reference....my car on 15x8 +35 Dekagram with a 225/45R15(23" tall) on Swift Spec-R lowering springs which lower the car around 1" back and front.
IMG_9490.JPG
and doesnt even rub when youre tri-cycling it.
IMG_9815.PNG
 


Last edited:
Messages
24
Likes
9
Location
Milton
#27
are you running an aftermarket top hat or the factory setup with the "bearing"?
I don't know what a top hat is or bearing? I'm using the "non" ST kit (BIL47-167490). In the picture this is the highest the car will go on these coilovers which is about 2" (50.8mm) lower than stock. I had the car lower which gave a much better ride, but raised it up because I keep hitting the splitter on every driveway
 


kevinatfms

Senior Member
Messages
873
Likes
924
Location
Germantown
#28
I don't know what a top hat is or bearing? I'm using the "non" ST kit (BIL47-167490). In the picture this is the highest the car will go on these coilovers which is about 2" (50.8mm) lower than stock. I had the car lower which gave a much better ride, but raised it up because I keep hitting the splitter on every driveway
Then something is wrong with them as you should have significantly more available height than 2" lower than stock. Bilstein states 25mm up front and 20mm out back as the minimum drop from the OE Fiesta(not even the ST) height.

Can you take a picture of the strut and spring/shock combo in the rear? Picture of the adjuster and spring would help to determine what is going on.

Stupid question, are you turning the spring collar up or down? Collar should be at the tippy top of the damper for the least amount of drop. Pictures of your current collar height will tell us where youre at.
 


Last edited:
Messages
24
Likes
9
Location
Milton
#29
Then something is wrong with them as you should have significantly more available height than 2" lower than stock. Bilstein states 25mm up front and 20mm out back as the minimum drop from the OE Fiesta(not even the ST) height.

Can you take a picture of the strut and spring/shock combo in the rear? Picture of the adjuster and spring would help to determine what is going on.

Stupid question, are you turning the spring collar up or down? Collar should be at the tippy top of the damper for the least amount of drop. Pictures of your current collar height will tell us where youre at.
I'll grab pictures over the weekend. From memory the collar was at the top and I went a thread or two down so it wasn't at the tippy top.
 


kevinatfms

Senior Member
Messages
873
Likes
924
Location
Germantown
#31
The rear is certainly as low as it can go. Spin that collar down to raise the rear up.

The front looks like its in the top end of the threads but not all the way up. See below for mine which has more threads available to raise the height and which makes it look like you have a quite a bit left(maybe 1" worth?). I can measure the full threaded portion and let you know the full length of adjustment but it would be easier for you to just spin it all the way up and drop the car back down to see how much it raised the front.

Try to spin the collar up on the front more that should give you more height. PEUD3999.JPG
 


Last edited:

M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
Messages
14,133
Likes
6,765
Location
Princeton, N.J.
#33
Did you re-spray those 1.2s, or is that now a factory color?

Is this a higher ride height than you had before, or were you never able to get it any higher from earlier posts?
 


Messages
24
Likes
9
Location
Milton
#34
Did you re-spray those 1.2s, or is that now a factory color?

Is this a higher ride height than you had before, or were you never able to get it any higher from earlier posts?
Factory color and it's about 1/8" higher. The fronts are now maxed, and the rears have plenty of adjustment.
 


Messages
378
Likes
285
Location
BC, Canada
#35
For instance, i am going to be running the non-ST kit on my car and am going with the b-spec spring rates(500/500) from Chris Taylor Racing.
So if you want the "lowz" status you would really want the non-ST B14 kit as the front can technically go lower than the ST specific kit.
I dont want the "lowz" or "sTaNcE" though as the car is purely a track car at this point.
Apologies for the reviving the thread, but the above 3 statements seem contradictory. Just to confirm, which of the kits allows for more height when installed on the ST?
 


kevinatfms

Senior Member
Messages
873
Likes
924
Location
Germantown
#36
Apologies for the reviving the thread, but the above 3 statements seem contradictory. Just to confirm, which of the kits allows for more height when installed on the ST?
The perch height is the same for the upper height level as the damper is the same length. The ST version has less threading at the bottom to limit the drop allowed.
 


M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
Messages
14,133
Likes
6,765
Location
Princeton, N.J.
#37
The perch height is the same for the upper height level as the damper is the same length. The ST version has less threading at the bottom to limit the drop allowed.
The perch height is the same for the upper height level as the damper is the same length. The ST version has less threading at the bottom to limit the drop allowed.
Did you have those B14s re-valved to the 500/500 B-Spec spring setup??

Does Chris Taylor racing also do that along with offering the top mount and smaller Eibach coil over springs and tenders?
 


kevinatfms

Senior Member
Messages
873
Likes
924
Location
Germantown
#38
Did you have those B14s re-valved to the 500/500 B-Spec spring setup??

Does Chris Taylor racing also do that along with offering the top mount and smaller Eibach coil over springs and tenders?
It was a used setup. So, no clue other than the way they performed made me think they were straight off the box B14 front dameprs. No rear damper was with the kit i bought. I used the Focus B8 damper which was a 46mm monotube.

No clue what CTR can do to them. He told me they run them out of the box with 6" long 2.5" 400/450 rates.
 


Fusion Works

Active member
Messages
675
Likes
893
Location
Huntsville, AL, USA
#39
CTR can't suggest revalving them because the Bspec rules don't allow revalving.(I suspect there are people who have done it) They Are WAY to soft for control a 500lb spring properly.

Its remarkably hard to find people who can actually re-valve stock body type Bilsteins. The refill machines are fairly pricey.
http://www.accuforceshockdyno.com/22fill_machine.pdf
 


M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
Messages
14,133
Likes
6,765
Location
Princeton, N.J.
#40
CTR can't suggest revalving them because the Bspec rules don't allow revalving.(I suspect there are people who have done it) They Are WAY to soft for control a 500lb spring properly.

Its remarkably hard to find people who can actually re-valve stock body type Bilsteins. The refill machines are fairly pricey.
http://www.accuforceshockdyno.com/22fill_machine.pdf
That's a shame since they would otherwise be an affordable way to get real motorsports sized/strength, inverted coil overs for our rides (for the fronts at least) with the B14s/B16s. [:(]
 


Similar threads



Top