Clutch Pedal Stuck on Floor

[zacsme]

Add me to the failed clutch group. I have 2014 ~66k miles that I bought back in 2015 with ~10k miles. Last weekend the clutch pedal stuck to the floor but luckily I was able to drive to a Ford shop nearby. They just let me know that clutch disc and throwout bearing are worn. Surprised me since my car is stock and I don't drive it hard; I also work from home for years now even prior to the pandemic but seems like a lot of people have clutch issues.

 

[Blk16 FiST]

make sure you have them check the slave cylinder, it seems like they neglected to fix it when they replaced the clutch on mine before i bought it.

 

[RubberDucky_82]

make sure you have them check the slave cylinder, it seems like they neglected to fix it when they replaced the clutch on mine before i bought it.

This. Dealer replaced the throwout bearing and the slave cylinder when my pedal began sticking. (And they didn't touch the clutch disk... not enough wear apparently.)

 

[Blk16 FiST]

This. Dealer replaced the throwout bearing and the slave cylinder when my pedal began sticking. (And they didn't touch the clutch disk... not enough wear apparently.)

my service tech asked if i wanted to just do the clutch since the trans was out.. said it would save labor down the road, the clutch wasnt toast but they replaced it anyway

 

[SPhilli911]

Seems as though mine is starting to have this issue as of today...

Clutch pedal was getting stuck on the way back up, about halfway. This was after a morning of stop and go traffic. My car has 56k miles, hardy drove it for over a year, too.

 

[amd64]

same issue here with a stock 2016, (stuck sometimes when i first got it but now after less than 10k miles on it its sticking completely to the floor and wont come back up). bought it with 20k miles in 2019 and now it only has 27k miles. because of the year its out of warranty so I'm probably going to have to do it myself

 

[TyphoonFiST]

same issue here with a stock 2016, (stuck sometimes when i first got it but now after less than 10k miles on it its sticking completely to the floor and wont come back up). bought it with 20k miles in 2019 and now it only has 27k miles. because of the year its out of warranty so I'm probably going to have to do it myself

Do the Clutch master Before the slave Cyl.* It is very simple...there are a couple of good screwtube videos out there. it took me about 45 min start to finish plus vacuum bleeding it also.

 

[amd64]

ok good call will do. Do you have a vacuum bleeder that you like? I started to go down that rabbit hole but the internet seemed kind of hit or miss on which ones it preferred

 

[TyphoonFiST]

ok good call will do. Do you have a vacuum bleeder that you like? I started to go down that rabbit hole but the internet seemed kind of hit or miss on which ones it preferred

Yeap.... This is the best I've came across. One man job every time. Did my entire brake system flush and it was easy as pie. Get the bleed bottles also.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TK9FE8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00942XQ06?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk

 

[zorglub]

Wanted to chime in with a variation of the issue - wondering what you think of it:

• Clutch pedal sticks halfway to the floor but only after right handers - no issues in a straight line or taking a left.
• Does need some cornering force to show, not a problem at parking lot speeds but anything above that is a problem.
• Comes back to normal after one shift.
• Issue came pretty suddenly, have been driving on it for about a month without change.
• Brake fluid level hasn't moved & flushed brakes recently.
• 37k fairly easy miles/stock everything.

This seems different enough to the standard failed slave cylinder issue - anyone here has had similar symptoms?

 

[M-Sport fan]

Could this possibly be caused solely by very old brake and clutch fluid which has taken on way too much moisture, especially if it only happens in extended stop and go traffic jams?

Or does it ALWAYS have to be from either, or both a master cylinder and a slave cylinder which have gone bad?

 

[Intuit]

Brake and clutch reservoir are shared but separated via spillway. If the clutch runs low or dry you likely won't be able to tell. Filler up with the low-viscosity fluid and bleed the clutch system. If the issue persists and the fluid level is still full, then will be looking at master or slave cylinder work. Master cylinders are generally capable of internal or/and external leaks while the traditional slave cylinder designs are only capable of external leaks. Either may capable of circumstantially inducing air into the system.

It's also a good idea to check the clutch pedal pivot axle for looseness or play that could result with binding. Many clutch pedals have return spring; don't recall whether ours does.

 

[Flynz4me]

Oh man I feel your pain. I bought Toothless back in October(day before Halloween) and last Sunday 5-1 I had had it in the shop more days than I have been able to drive it.😬 The clutch pedal issue turned out to be the slave cylinder, and I did take the opportunity to throw a Wavetrac in at the same time. I justified that because the passenger side Pilot Sport, that was brand new in October, was showing cords. I had maybe 2 legitimate burn outs (baby ones at that) but nothing that should have caused that much wear. Additionally, when passing, when I would touch the painted line, the car would yank towards the ditch. Nearly having a brown pants moment a few times. The week before last I was blessed with 3 days of having Toothless to drive and Saturday morning had to do the Rev match into gear and limp it home. Well, I found I could pull the pedal back up and it made it to the tuner shop Sunday evening where the Wavetrac, TSmart, and slave cylinder were installed/replaced. Thursday, 5-5 I got the call that Toothless was finally finished. 🙌 The transformation from the LSD install was night and day. Being 40 years old I opted for the less obnoxious vent back into the system instead of atmosphere and the car really sounds good. The clutch works reliably as it used to and lays a nice "double stripe" instead of the one wheel wonder stripe. I feel this car should have come with a LSD from the factory and is borderline unsafe with an open diff. The issue of not being able to pull through a cloverleaf without blowing that inside wheel off is gone and makes me now appreciate the bolstering on the seats. I know your pain sir. This car is worth it I promise.

 

[amd64]

Definitely agree about the LSD (and would heavily consider adding one if I have to pull the trans for slave cylinder issues). I'll give it a bleed myself and maybe put in a new master cylinder.