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Downpipe install DIY with pics!

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218
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Location
Norman, OK, USA
#1
It's been too long since I've been running my Cobb stage 2 and now it's time to tackle on the downpipe. This install DIY should help people to gain some confidence when installing this mod. Although I tried to be thorough with this DIY, should a question arise, feel free to ask! Also, if you're still not confident about doing this yourself with the DIY, please consult your local mechanic. I will not be responsible for any damages that have caused following my tutorial.

Tools needed
1. 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 15mm socket wrench, combination wrench, and ratcheting wrench (HIGHLY recommended)
2. Set of extensions, universal joint (recommended), and a breaker bar
3. Ramp or jack with jack stands
4. Penetrating fluid (i.e. PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. NOT WD-40)
5. Set of 22mm O2 sensor wrench
6. Set of philips screwdrivers
7. Set of torx screwdrivers
8. Gloves and eye protections

1. Remove the Wipers and upper cowl
If you haven't already, pop the hood and let the car cool. You don't want to work on the exhaust when it's hot. Let it really cool and begin by removing the wipers. Remove the wipers by removing the rubber cap and the 15mm nuts underneath. Before removing the wipers, mark their location with a tape. If you have a dirty car like me, the marks will be quite visible without the tape. After the wipers are gone, remove the upper cowl by removing clips using flat head screwdriver. After all the clips are gone, just pry the cowl with your hands.


2. Remove the headlights
Now it's time to remove the headlights so we can reach the lower cowl. Start by removing 2 torx screws and 1 screw push tab. Once the screws are out, pull the headlights up and you'll hear a loud noise. This is normal. Once the headlights are out, unplug the harness and set it aside. Repeat the same thing on the other side.


3. Remove the lower cowl
Once the headlights are out, remove 4 10mm bolts (2 on each side) that is holding the cowl in place. Once the bolts are removed, just pull it out then set it aside.



4. Remove the upper intake piping
Now, there should be plenty of room to work with the intake. You just need to remove the upper piping in order to have space. Start by loosening 1 worm clamps on each end with flat head screwdriver or 8mm wrench. Once the clamps are loose, remove the bracket that's holding the intake piping with 10mm and 14mm bolt. Don't forget to remove the breather hose in the back of the intake (not pictured), and remove the intake piping.


5. Remove the upper O2 sensor
You should have a clear view of the upper O2 sensor. Soak it with penetrating fluid then use a O2 socket wrench to remove. I did it by combining O2 socket, extensions, universal joint, and a breaker bar to break it lose. Remove the O2 sensor and set it aside.



6. Remove the heat shield bolts
Now the fun part. Start by removing the heat shield bolt on the exhaust manifold. They are all 8mm black bolts and 2 of them can be reached from top and other 2 from the bottom. Just remove the top 2 bolts for now using ratcheting wrench then set it aside.


Now remove bolts that's holding the downpipe heat shield. They are all 10mm silver bolts. 4 of them can be accessed from the top. There's one more bolt that can be accessed from under the car.


7. Remove lower O2 sensor
Now under the car, you can remove the lower O2 sensor using a socket wrench and O2 socket. Be sure to soak it with penetrating fluid before tackling it. Once it's removed, set it aside.


8. Remove downpipe bracket
While under the car, remove the bracket that's holding the downpipe which is attached to the rear motor mount. Remove 4 13mm nuts and the bracket should be free. Set it aside.


9. Remove downpipe heat shield
After removing the last 10mm bolt from under the car, downpipe heat shield should be free. This can be a bit tricky but it can be removed under the car. Start by rotating the heat shield clockwise around the downpipe and try to remove it through the exhaust tunnel. With persistence, heat shield will come off.

10. Remove midpipe/catback
Now that the heat shield is out, start by removing the downpipe bolt which is attached to the catback. If you have aftermarket catback, just remove the midpipe and set it aside. If you have the stock catback, remove the rear brace and just push the catback back to free some room.

11. Remove downpipe bolt
There are 3 10mm bolts that are holding the downpipe to the turbo. You can reach 2 from the bottom and 1 from the top. It is possible to remove all three from the bottom but it's quite difficult. Be sure to use plenty of penetrating fluid to ease the process.


23. Remove the downpipe
This is the HARDEST step of the tutorial. There are many ways to remove the downpipe but I used COBB's method and decided to remove it from the bottom. Once all the bolts are removed and catback out of the way, the downpipe should be free. Try rotating and wiggling the downpipe through the tunnel and with enough persistence, it should come out. Once the downpipe is out, pat yourself in the back because it's all downhill from here.

24. Swap the gasket ring
Before putting the new downpipe in, you need to swap the ring gasket from the factory downpipe to your new one. This can be easily done using flat head screwdriver.

25. Install the new downpipe
Whether your new downpipe is catless or catted, it should considerably skinnier than the stock downpipe. Just feed the downpipe through and install the 3 bolts.

26. Install back everything
Just repeat the step backward: Install 2 o2 sensors, bolt up the manifold heat shield, reinstall the catback, intake, cowl, headlights. Don't forget to reflash the map to stage 3 or you'll have to deal with the CEL.

Enjoy your new downpipe!
 


Last edited:

D1JL

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#4
chalituna that was a fantastic job.
Now that you know how and have experience to do it.
Come over and do mine. LOL





Dave
 


FistSt215

Senior Member
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#9
Nice write up man ! When I get a downpipe , I might grow a pair and do my own install since I have a garage now
 


MOFiST

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#14
The best write up I've seen chalituna! Great to see the different ways people tackle the same job. This will be a go to reference when I do my DP.
 


MOFiST

Active member
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#15
At step 23 right now. The top turbo to DP bolt is an SOB, hard to get penetrating fluid on it mainly because of the mofo manifold heat shield.
I ended up rounding off the said bolt a bit so basically now tomorrow I'll be buying some of these > irwin bolt extractors
I hit the bolt with some more fluid for overnight [pray]
Your guide is really good and IMHO far better than Cobb's.
 


OP
chalituna
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Location
Norman, OK, USA
Thread Starter #16
At step 23 right now. The top turbo to DP bolt is an SOB, hard to get penetrating fluid on it mainly because of the mofo manifold heat shield.
I ended up rounding off the said bolt a bit so basically now tomorrow I'll be buying some of these > irwin bolt extractors
I hit the bolt with some more fluid for overnight [pray]
Your guide is really good and IMHO far better than Cobb's.
That sucks.. Top bolt is bit of a pain. It is easier to reach the top one from the top while the car is back down on the ground. (unless youre Shaq). As for penetrati g fluid, i jus aimed it at general location of the bolt hoping to soak the bolt.
 


CanadianGuy

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Southern Ontario
#17
At step 23 right now. The top turbo to DP bolt is an SOB, hard to get penetrating fluid on it mainly because of the mofo manifold heat shield.
I ended up rounding off the said bolt a bit so basically now tomorrow I'll be buying some of these > irwin bolt extractors
I hit the bolt with some more fluid for overnight [pray]
Your guide is really good and IMHO far better than Cobb's.
Got any tranny oil kicking around? I have great success with tranny oil and acetone:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CESDxCloCoQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2WuVBFTzoKc

Much better then anything I found.
 


OP
chalituna
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Location
Norman, OK, USA
Thread Starter #18

CanadianGuy

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#19
Wow, i never knew that you can mix atf and acetone like that. I know Kroil is really good but it's pricey so I avoided it but this is some good info!
Just don't mix to much at a time, especially if you don't have an air tight container. The acetone evaporates quickly if left in the air. Just remember the 50/50. And avoid a plastic bottle as the acetone may eat it.
 


MOFiST

Active member
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Location
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#20
Thanks for the tip CanadianGuy. I think I'll try the ATF & acetone trick today. One of those bottles that the guy had in that vid would work perfect.

Oh and not sure how you'd get to that bolt from the bottom. It's invisible from there. It's fiddly to get to from the top but doable, leaning over the car. I'm only 5'8" and the car is on ramps.
 


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