Engine cut out while I was driving, started it back up and ran rough.

[LilPocketRocket]

Okay, there's a lot that went on today. While I was sitting in the cold A/C on my lunch break, I heard a weird sucking noise coming from my car. I immediately opened the hood and found that the noise was emanating from the entrance of the intake. Bear in mind that I have installed a 2J cowl intake with an Outerwears waterproof cover, proper fitting hose instead of heater hose for the PCV hookup, and all the jazz for a proper install. Anyways, I tried feeling around for a crack in the intake pipe, loose junction near the turbo inlet, excessive water in the cowl, and there was nothing weird being visible to me.

A couple hours later when it was time for me to drive home, I heard the sucking noise again. On a whim, I revved the car to 2500 RPM and the noise went away with no fuss. Five minutes into driving and the vehicle completely shuts off on me while driving. I pull over to start it back up and it ran REALLY rough as if it was misfiring. No CEL codes and nothing weird popped up on my AP. Turned it off and on again and it ran fine. I only gas up at populated gas stations with 93, so I don't think it's bad gas.

I was greeted by a fellow car enthusiast who happened to be a highway patrolman that helped me tow it to my house to break it down and see what went wrong. However, that left more questions than answers. I live in a really humid environment and I did notice moisture on the oil cap but not on the dipstick. I took the whole cowl off to see in the intake and it was clean and dry.

I'm semi knowledgeable on these things but I don't have that fancy Autel MaxiSys to see exactly what's going on. I'm thinking it's a random fouled plug, bad coil, blowby from an unknown preexisting condition, etc. Any knowledge from a grease hand is helpful at this point since it's my daily.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Any codes set? You need to monitor the Fuel pressures with the LPFP AND HPFP. It may be a fuel issue that hasn't set a code also.

 

[The_Ryan]

I think you answered your own question.

-Pull the plugs.
-Compression test while you’re there.
-Check for boost/vacuum leaks

 

[SteveS]

I think you answered your own question.

-Pull the plugs.
-Compression test while you’re there.
-Check for boost/vacuum leaks

I think I'd put the check for leaks first, since there's a sucking noise.

 

[Thirty-Two]

Look at your fan belt. These engines have a tendency to either loosen the a/c clutch pulley, seize the a/c compressor, and/or seize the belt tensioner. The shutting off while driving with no codes can be a symptom of this, especially if it shuts off while driving with a/c on.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Buy a Boost leak tester also if you have access to an air compressor * so you can check for leaks in the Charge air system.

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[The_Ryan]

I think I'd put the check for leaks first, since there's a sucking noise.

Sucking noise could be BPV staying open to limit boost in limp mode. Usually a boost/vacuum leak in these cars don't cause it to run this rough because mass density sensor is right on the manifold. I knew someone with a big ol' crack in their intercooler and the only thing they noticed was low boost numbers and low power accordingly

 

[LilPocketRocket]

Well, I just realized it's already been a couple of weeks since this incident. Time flies when you're working crazy hours in management. Anyways, as much as I wanted to diagnose it myself so I could prevent myself from starting it again without finding the issue, my SO kept screaming in my ear telling me that I don't know what I'm doing and that I need to take it to the dealer. However, I was relentless to get the car started. My first step was pulling the plugs. I wanted to be sure the plugs and coils were fine before I started to dig a lot deeper. Ran my borescope through cylinders 1-3 and they were pristine. I suppose that's the result of Amsoil. However upon cylinder 4, the plug came out rough and I saw metal shavings on the plug. Cross-threaded plugs during previous service.

At this juncture I was disappointed in myself for screwing up a simple tune up. I also decided to throw away the cheap Titan spark plug sockets and cheap swivel extensions to go all-out on a Snap-on thin wall set with angled wrench. I'm still not a believer in anti-seize, though many people think I should use it after what happened to me. But I digress. Since the head is aluminum I figured I'd need a new head. Since it wouldn't be cheap, I also took the bumper off to fix the previous owner's collision evidence, including getting the front bumper fixed up with a custom metal mesh lower grille and permanently attaching the Project RST lower canards without using Primer 94. If you're spending money, why not spend more?

I eventually gave into my woman though and towed it to the dealer since she kept yelling profanities at me for over an hour nonstop. My assumptions were that it's take them two weeks to work me in only to clean the spark plug threads and not diagnose the main issue with the car shutting off in the first place. BOY WAS I RIGHT. They told me they can't drive the car or diagnose it because the front bumper is off. You know, the same bumper that'll be at the body shop for another two weeks getting fixed up. There's literally six bolts holding the bumper to the car. No skid plates, no fasteners. How would that make a difference?! I paid $230 only to still not want to start the car again.

Overall I'm lost at what to do. I cursed the car to the point where I feel like I'll just break more stuff. I got an appointment with Panda Motorworks in St. Charles tomorrow, but the car is 1 1/2 hours south of there since that's where I live now. I cannot begin to fathom the amount to tow it there, so I suppose I can just get a car dolly if need be. But could the issue really be that simple. Or, is it a fuel hiccup or a turbo malfunction? I still can't believe all this stress has gotten me nowhere. I wish I could throw an MRX block and GTX2867 at it and be done with it, but I need to save a few sheckles in my automotive budget to afford another Audi, for my SO of course. At the least, I'm buying six gauges to mount near me so I can keep an eye on everything 24/7.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Antiseize shouldn't be anywhere near these plugs. Go to NGKs site....they say absolutely NO Antiseize is needed. It can sometimes work against you and upset the true Torque of the plug when using a Torque wrench. It's 13lbs or 17.625nm....if you don't have a Torque wrench I'd suggest you buy a good one. Buying cheap tools can get you cheap results and cost you in the end I've found. A Spark plug should NEVER be installed using a ratchet. It should be spun in by hand with the socket and extension to avoid cross threading it into the soft aluminum head. Good luck and keep us posted! Here is a good read for brain food.

"5 Things You Should Know About Spark Plugs | NGK Spark Plugs" https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

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[The_Ryan]

Typhoon is spot on.

Also you might not need a new head. A competent shop should be able to install some sort of thread repair product in there. I believe someone here has done it to their fiesta before.

Thirdly, do not get discouraged by this when working on cars. Shit happens. When shit happens is when you learn. If the same shit keeps happening then that's when you need to stop and reassess yaself.

For when you're still feeling bad: Remember good times make good memories, bad times make good lessons

 

[MagnetiseST]

I eventually gave into my woman though and towed it to the dealer since she kept yelling profanities at me for over an hour nonstop.

If this is true, you should probably get out of that abusive as fuck relationship. It isn't helping you.

 

[Tom_FordFiestaST]

My fiesta ST is stock but I want to put normal NGK spark plugs in. Can anybody tell me what I'm supposed to Gap these spark plugs too?