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First Track Day with the FiST... going *LIMP* worse than a whiskey binger

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Lapeer, MI, USA
#1
Hello! As the title suggests, I had my first track day (on pavement) with the FiST yesterday, and spent almost the entire day in Limp Mode. I'll try to paint the picture of how the car performed throughout the day, and I'd love any help or theories for what might be going on..
Once I figure out some basic video editing, I'll include videos for research purposes lol

[The Day]:
The race was at Gingerman Raceway in South Haven, MI.
It was a sunny, windy day with temperatures ranging from mid 50's to mid 60's.

[The Car]:
Gutted Fiesta ST, set up for stage rally/rallycross, but ditched the skid plates and donned some sticky boi tires (RE71R).
Stock radiator, no heater core, no A/C (but still have the A/C compressor and condenser installed)
Presumably stock turbo, stock thermostat, stock boost levels (18psi, with 21 psi overboost)

[The Situation]:
Heat 1: During the first 20 minute heat, the car performed fantastic (in the beginning). Handled well, full boost, was running down C5 Z06's in the turns, and passing 911s. However, after about 15 minutes of driving, the car suddenly went into limp mode.
Not surprising, we were beating the car pretty hard. So we assumed it was coolant temp, and pulled off the track for the rest of the heat.

Heat 2: After a 30-35 minute cool down, we were called again for Heat 2. Coolant temp was about 180F at start up, but as we approached the grid, we had to idle for about 10 minutes before being released to the track. Coolant temp was about 195F when we finally started on track.
First two laps, the car performed great, and coolant temps actually dropped (according to our gauge) to about 185-190F out on the track. But someone where in the 3rd lap, the car went into limp.
We tried a cool down lap, but it never seemed to come out, so we pulled in the pits.

~ After Heat 2, we decided to consult Uncle Google ~
Uncle Google suggested unplugging the battery for a few minutes, utilizing our kill switches. Googs also suggested checking for and clearing codes... using the OBD Fusion iPhone App, I pulled and cleared any associated codes(perhaps too many?). After a 40 minute cool down, we got ready for Heat 3.

Heat 3: Car fired up like normal, coolant temp about 170F. Feeling confident, we headed to grid behind a 2005 Viper Competition Coupe, ready to avenge ourselves.
Immediately after leaving the grid, the instrument cluster flickered. Right after turn 2, all power died, and the car (like our avenging aspirations) crawled to a halt.

They had to remove all cars from the track while we were towed behind a flagging station. The epitome of embarrassing...

After sitting in the grass for about 15 minutes, the car fired right up(Perhaps it unintentionally reset the ECU and its codes?), and drove completely fine back to the paddock.

With a tow car shortly behind, we left the track and drove around on the highways and city streets near the track, with the hood off, for over an hour. The car had all power, all boost, and ran completely normal.
Perhaps thinking intake air temps may be a suspect, we stopped at O'reillys and threw a fresh K&N filter at the car. Because us, like the crazed toilet paper buying patrons of 2020, were desperate to do something that felt like progress.

We drove the car for another 30 minutes, and with all signs pointing to "OK", returned to the track to attempt another heat.

Heat 4: This time, we ran with the hood off, just as we did around town, thinking that intake air temp was perhaps the culprit.
"Immediately" out of the grid, prior to entering the course, the car was already in limp mode. Coolant temp was about 185F. Intake Air Temp was about 110F

Despite being in Limp Mode, we decided to keep running the car. It obviously was an obstruction off the side on the straight aways, but it kept pace for the most part in the turns. So we felt we weren't a detriment to other racers. There was only about 5 cars on the track at this point also (thanks to an Audi that spilled it's oily guts on the back straight just before this).

After our 5th of 6th lap, turning out of turn two again, the car died. All power gone. And we crawled to a halt at the exact same corner station as earlier in the day. We pulled off into the grass (per direction from the corner station), and sat defeated.
But after about 30 seconds, the car restarted, and we limped around to the pits and loaded the car up.

Driving it now, everything once again feels fine.

We are going to pull the condenser, just because, but what else should we be looking for??
Thanks in advance for the help!

Gingerman.jpg



*TLDR* : LIMP Mode issues cause by either (Heat soak/cooling issues, ECU codes, G-load on lose connections, faulty sensors, etc.)
 


M-Sport fan

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#3
When you eventually do an aftermarket radiator, make sure to fully/thoroughly flush out the whole system, and of course bleed/'burp' it as well.

I also would change to the 180* Motorcraft 'stat when doing the above, and run a 60/40 or even a 70/30 water to coolant mix for the SUMMER only, with possibly some Purple Ice/Kool-It/etc. type of stuff added to the mix.

But yeah, this does seem like an electrical/sensor/ECM type of snafu somewhere. [dunno]
I would probably try replacing the coolant temp sensor first, since easy to do and not big $$$, so not too bad a thing as compared to any of the other "throwing parts at it" type of trials.

Dumping the skid plate was a good idea for the open track use, BTW. [thumb]
(I leave mine off unless I am going to be working a rally in the very near future.)
 


xxiaze

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#6
When you pulled the codes at track what came up? Was this recently? Idle air temps at 110 are pretty high if you weren’t really sitting there running esp for recent temperatures outside. How’s your IC? Soak sounds pretty nasty. Have you checked your cold side pipe for leakage? These come loose per some.

I would think first and foremost though you shouldn’t be going into LIMP for 185 coolant temps and 110 intake charges.... sounds like something else.

are you running a new tune?
 


Woods247

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#7
My car limped constantly (Southeast USA) before the installation of a Mishimoto radiator and their 160 thermostat. The 160 thermostat lets it cool down more between sessions and radiator is the largest available for the car. I still run Ford coolant and haven’t had issues for two seasons. Just a heads up, installing a thermostat is a long process. You’ll definitely need cooling upgrades since you can’t blow your heater to help.
 


JDG

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#8
My car limped constantly (Southeast USA) before the installation of a Mishimoto radiator and their 160 thermostat. The 160 thermostat lets it cool down more between sessions and radiator is the largest available for the car. I still run Ford coolant and haven’t had issues for two seasons. Just a heads up, installing a thermostat is a long process. You’ll definitely need cooling upgrades since you can’t blow your heater to help.
Going along with this, I had issues overheating during a single rallycross run (60 seconds) when it was >80F outside. The motorcraft 185F thermostat and Mountune radiator solved these issues completely. Hard to say if you were overheating though without the codes or a datalog.

@Philld_with_donuts Do you have an accessport?
 


shouldbeasy

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#9
My car limped constantly (Southeast USA) before the installation of a Mishimoto radiator and their 160 thermostat. The 160 thermostat lets it cool down more between sessions and radiator is the largest available for the car. I still run Ford coolant and haven’t had issues for two seasons. Just a heads up, installing a thermostat is a long process. You’ll definitely need cooling upgrades since you can’t blow your heater to help.
I could not believe how buried that little bastard is - with the entire front end of the car off I STILL ended up with bloodied knuckles. Glad it's done, hope OP gets their issue fixed!
 


OP
Philld_with_donuts
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Thread Starter #10
@PunkST : I agree, it seems electrical. Just started pulling the harness tonight!

@M-Sport fan : That's a great idea with the coolant temp sensor. Very cheap replacement and good insurance. And I agree that it may be something electrical. The harness is already on it's way out of the car... Found some very creative solutions to a lack of butt connectors. Turns out a ring eye terminal, a bolt, and a nut work just as good! :eek:

@JDG : The codes it pulled seemed rather benign at first glance... I just pulled these tonight, but it's the exact same ones that were setting at the track as well.
Unfortunately I do not have an accessport. Perhaps I need to move that higher on the priority list...:unsure: What were you hoping to see with the accessport?

Fiesta 13.jpg Fiesta 14.jpg

@AZSP33D : It's a 2014, and no coolant smells, steam, or other obvious signs of overheating.

@xxiaze : The IC is a Cobb unit with all cobb piping, and there weren't any soot traces, or flutter in boost levels when data logging. Unfortunately I just pulled the front end off, but I'll make sure to check for any leaks when I put everything back together. And I agree, at those temps I wouldn't expect to be in Limp either. I've going through the harness now and have found a few things that seem a little suspect.

And no changes to the tune since I bought the car. It used to have a Cobb tuner, but that was gone before I got the car. It appears to be a stock tune based on the boost pressures I see.

@Woods247 : Mishimoto rad and 185F thermostat on their way... (y) (But perhaps I need to switch to a 160F? Do you still see your oil getting up to temp with the 160F Tstat?)
Since you and @shouldbeasy had some trouble with the thermostat, I checked it out tonight.

Is there any tricks to it besides removing the alternator and A/C compressor? With those out of the way, it looks pretty straight forward. But I know it's not always as easy as it first seems....


Thanks for all the help and feedback guys!!
 


Last edited:

M-Sport fan

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#12
Yeah, you're in the upper mid west.

So, unless you are planning on never driving this thing at all in the winter, or not taking it out of storage until late spring (and maybe not even then), I would not even think about a 160* 'stat.

Hell, it does not get nearly as cold here, and I would never ever consider a 'stat that cold, even if I open tracked this thing every weekend in the summer. [nono]
 


OP
Philld_with_donuts
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Thread Starter #13
I agree PunkST and M-Sport, 160F seems way too cold.
I imagine you’d have issues with low oil temps, and the potential for premature wear due to the high oil viscosity.
In a car I built many years ago, I actually switched to the highest temp thermostat possible, to squeeze a few more hp from the lower viscous drag. Then overheat was controlled with properly sized oil and water coolers. (But they were also mounted in side pods with all the airflow they could ever need..)

Kind of off topic, but do you know of any A/C compressor delete kits? I tried to order one while I have the front end off, but it appears to be on crazy back order while Ford is furloughed..

Thanks again!!
 


JDG

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#14
@Philld_with_donuts P068A is a pretty big problem: https://www.obd-codes.com/p068a

This is likely your main issue. I would consider disconnecting the battery, cleaning the terminals, and while the battery is disconnected, unplug the ECU (wait awhile for the system to discharge). Check for corrosion on any of the terminal pins. Then reconnect and clear the codes. You also have a wheel speed sensor code (P1934) which could be causing issues as well. I would address these problems first before you start throwing parts at the car.

The radiator/thermostat combo is a good upgrade regardless. But I wouldn't throw any more parts at this until you resolve the above codes I mentioned.

The rest of the codes are probably from your aftermarket intake.
 


Last edited:
OP
Philld_with_donuts
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Thread Starter #17
I saw the same for the P1934. The speedometer doesn't work, so I assumed that there was a speed sensor on the trans that was unplugged.

And that P068A is definitely something to think about... Do you think it could be related to using a kill switch shutting off power to the ECU instead of letting the car go through some power down sequence?
Or having the kill switch disengaging all power while sitting? Perhaps I'm clearing some memory in the ECU that it's looking for?

I agree the P0446 and P0453 are likely related to the intake.


Edit: I just found this article as well regarding the P068A on a Focus ST. In summary, someone else had the issue and went through ECU pin inspections, ECU reset, relay replacement, and it turned out to be a loose ground. I'll inspect my grounds as well!

https://www.focusst.org/threads/dtc-p068a.153691/
 


Last edited:

Woods247

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@Philld_with_donuts my car is primarily used for track. I have no issues bringing the temps up. I also do not have an oil cooler. It's unnecessary with my setup.. I'm not sure why a motorcycle or Lotus have relevance to the Fiesta, but the 180 Motorcraft may be all you need. It wasn't available when I installed the 160 Mishimoto. That said, I don't have any problems with temps cold or hot. I do live in the Southeast, however and I drive fast. I want the car to cool off as much as possible between sessions when it's 90 degrees outside so between the two, I'd still buy the 160. The Mishi radiator is a fantastic solution to controlling hot temps.
 


OP
Philld_with_donuts
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Thread Starter #19
@Philld_with_donuts my car is primarily used for track. I have no issues bringing the temps up. I also do not have an oil cooler. It's unnecessary with my setup.. I'm not sure why a motorcycle or Lotus have relevance to the Fiesta, but the 180 Motorcraft may be all you need. It wasn't available when I installed the 160 Mishimoto. That said, I don't have any problems with temps cold or hot. I do live in the Southeast, however and I drive fast. I want the car to cool off as much as possible between sessions when it's 90 degrees outside so between the two, I'd still buy the 160. The Mishi radiator is a fantastic solution to controlling hot temps.
That's good to know that the 160 is working well for your set up, and that you can run without an oil cooler with the lower coolant temp. Especially in the hotter outside temp of the southeast.

I don't mean to dis or insult your build and what worked for your application. My buddies who build BMW road racing and drift cars also suggested the 160F as well, because it would help the thermostat stay closer to full stroke during your entire drive cycle, and give you more margin when you are at speed, like when potentially drafting another car and have reduced airflow to the radiator.

I know that other build (open wheel formula car) doesn't have as much relevance here. I only meant to show that the t-stat STO temp can have reaching effects, and sometimes it works to go against conventional ideology. Also that the t-stat STO is only controlling the bottom book end for your operating temps, while the radiator is controlling the upper bookend. Hopefully this Mishi rad will be a good improvement. I've used them in the past and had nothing but good luck with them so far.
 


Woods247

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#20
That's good to know that the 160 is working well for your set up, and that you can run without an oil cooler with the lower coolant temp. Especially in the hotter outside temp of the southeast.

I don't mean to dis or insult your build and what worked for your application. My buddies who build BMW road racing and drift cars also suggested the 160F as well, because it would help the thermostat stay closer to full stroke during your entire drive cycle, and give you more margin when you are at speed, like when potentially drafting another car and have reduced airflow to the radiator.

I know that other build (open wheel formula car) doesn't have as much relevance here. I only meant to show that the t-stat STO temp can have reaching effects, and sometimes it works to go against conventional ideology. Also that the t-stat STO is only controlling the bottom book end for your operating temps, while the radiator is controlling the upper bookend. Hopefully this Mishi rad will be a good improvement. I've used them in the past and had nothing but good luck with them so far.
I only try to post when I have something relevant to say based on experience. I’ve been wrong before but quickly correct myself when the error is discovered. I don’t wheel to wheel race anymore, just open trackdays. I’ve learned a lot about how to make/drive this car fast. It doesn’t require much more than a LSD, brakes and cooling mods to have a lot of fun. The hybrid turbo (93 stock fuel) took it to another level. I prefer its quick spool over larger turbos but that’s an entirely different subject.. I think you’ll have a blast once you get the cooling issues behind you.
 




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