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Front brake dragging after BBK install

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#1
Just finished Whoosh BBK install in the front and SVT rear upgrade with new pads. The front left is dragging after I press the brakes to the point it doesn't even rotate (video). I bleed the brakes all the way around. Is it a piston that maybe bad, the kit is brand new.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#2
Just finished Whoosh BBK install in the front and SVT rear upgrade with new pads. The front left is dragging after I press the brakes to the point it doesn't even rotate (video attached). I bleed the brakes all the way around. Is it a piston that maybe bad, the kit is brand new.
How did you bleed the system?

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TyphoonFiST

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#4
May need to vacuum bleed them* Also …How are the bleeders positioned? Up or down?
 


OP
J
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Thread Starter #7
I'll bet there is still air in the system*

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No luck went through one more bottle and caliper still getting stuck. Any other ideas? I really appreciate your input and thank you.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#8
No luck went through one more bottle and caliper still getting stuck. Any other ideas? I really appreciate your input and thank you.
Are these "New" calipers or did you buy the used? Did you Vacuum bleed the system?

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OP
J
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Thread Starter #9
Are these "New" calipers or did you buy the used? Did you Vacuum bleed the system?

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Yep brand new, was Christmas gift :cool:, but got it late January. It takes me awhile to install stuff.

Don't have Vacuum bleeding system. Still did the 2 person method. Any recommendation as to which one?
 


TyphoonFiST

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#10
Yep brand new, was Christmas gift :cool:, but got it late January. It takes me awhile to install stuff.

Don't have Vacuum bleeding system. Still did the 2 person method. Any recommendation as to which one?
How does your brake fluid cap screw on? Does it have three prongs under the cap? If it does it will work with the Bleeder I listed and own myself....Mines a 15' also

Here is a decent pump Vacuum bleeder....


Motive Products - 0108 Brake System Power Bleeder for Most Late Model GM Cars and Trucks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TK9FE...t_i_JQY2X8Z19VNBCQ5VBF74?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

And the catch cans

Motive Products - 1820 Brake Fluid Bottle Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00942XQ0...t_i_X0FTR8KX4ENEDT06DM7A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

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OP
J
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Thread Starter #11
Thanks! But one more update before I call it a night. I went through the last of my bottle and now all 4 brakes are staying locked. Even when not pressing the brakes.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#12
The ABS module may need to be cycled also...This can be done with the fomoco Forscan program....you can buy or use the free program online. That is a good question why they wont unlock. You just did the fronts correct? Not rears also* If you start the car and cycle the pedal to get feel that may unlock them. Make sure your wheels are chocked and your NOT in gear when you start it.
 


OP
J
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Thread Starter #13
Thanks to forum wealth of knowledge found this thread. I pulled up on the brake it made a petty loud click while moved the pedal higher than before. This did the trick. I will be taking it easy and check everything this weekend.

Only thing left is my hill assist no longer works. Keep getting message on it's unavailable.

@TyphoonFiST thanks all the input! I'll definitely look into bleeder and cycling in the abs unit still.
But to answer last questions. I did do the rear brake pads at the same time. I had the car up on stands so after I pulled up on brake I did taped the brakes then rocked the car sightly back and forth to make sure it was moving.
 


OP
J
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Thread Starter #17
A little update on my brakes. So it's a few months and love the combo of Whoosh brakes up front and SVT in the rear but in all honesty overkill for what I use the car for. Ever since I installed the brakes I know it was sensitive, but didn't know that brake lights weren't turning on as I normally brake. I can come to a complete stop without getting the lights to turn on. I have to push down pretty far to turn the brake lights on, but at that point I am stopping a lot faster (if that make sense). Not sure if this was caused by the pedal getting stuck or if the brake switch went bad.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#18
A little update on my brakes. So it's a few months and love the combo of Whoosh brakes up front and SVT in the rear but in all honesty overkill for what I use the car for. Ever since I installed the brakes I know it was sensitive, but didn't know that brake lights weren't turning on as I normally brake. I can come to a complete stop without getting the lights to turn on. I have to push down pretty far to turn the brake lights on, but at that point I am stopping a lot faster (if that make sense). Not sure if this was caused by the pedal getting stuck or if the brake switch went bad.
Brake switch Adjustment?

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TyphoonFiST

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#20
Is this how you adjust the brake switch Post 3?
I don't have access to Forescan tool or Windows computer.
With some brake switches you can adjust the height of the Plunger on switch that makes contact with the bake pedal to turn the brake lights on sooner or later*
 




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