Front Control Arm Removal

[Sekred]

Images of front control arm removal.

Note, Spindle removal is optional

 

[M-Sport fan]

Thanks!

Is that an Aussie only available front brake kit?

 

[Sekred]

No, it is made by K-Sport. 304x28mm disc, alloy caliper and hats.

http://j-w-racing.co.uk/product.php/9327/3999/k_sport_6_piston_304mm_big_brake_kit_fiesta_st180

 

[CanadianGuy]

[MENTION=62]Sekred[/MENTION] Very informative. Had issues with noise or did not like the rust?

 

[alnhoo]

Upgrading LCA bushings me thinks.

 

[Sekred]

Hi, yes I replaced the front and rear bushes with Power Flex parts. Sorry no photos of my own but this is what I used. (from the web site).






95 Durometer.

 

[Siestarider]

How do the new bushes feel?

 

[Sekred]

How do the new bushes feel?

Hi mate. I have been on a mission to "tighten" the suspension up. I have replaced the rear bushes too and removed the Konis and gone to coil-overs, mainly to increase the spring rate and to firm up the top of the strut mount as well. I have been running with the front bushes for a few weeks now and pretty happy with the result. Sharper steering feel and less torque steer with the big turbo. Overall the vehicle is significantly stiffer, uncomfortable on crappy roads but I can put up with. The lift off oversteer is more predicable too, there is less (what I call) wind-up going on when the suspension is loaded up like hard cornering with lots of throttle.

 

[alnhoo]

Been interested in these bushings, but probably won't do them for a while.

How long did the whole process take you?

Sorry about the questions, but what are the adjustable caster bushings like? Can you just install them without making adjustments to the caster and when doing an alignment, also do they (people who do alignments) adjust these bushings?

Btw, I like the make shift bushing press

 

[Siestarider]

Hi mate. I have been on a mission to "tighten" the suspension up. I have replaced the rear bushes too and removed the Konis and gone to coil-overs, mainly to increase the spring rate and to firm up the top of the strut mount as well. I have been running with the front bushes for a few weeks now and pretty happy with the result. Sharper steering feel and less torque steer with the big turbo. Overall the vehicle is significantly stiffer, uncomfortable on crappy roads but I can put up with. The lift off oversteer is more predicable too, there is less (what I call) wind-up going on when the suspension is loaded up like hard cornering with lots of throttle.

I am finally going to coils and going to try different spring rates. Have enough track time in the car to want less body roll and better compliance. Going to try Meister GT1 valved for 6/4 with their 5/3 springs and Swift springs of higher rate, see if I can come up with a fast road/track combo I can like.

I suspect your bushes would be too strong for my taste, but once on the path to more suspension who knows where it goes. Thanks.

 

[Sekred]

Been interested in these bushings, but probably won't do them for a while.

How long did the whole process take you?

Sorry about the questions, but what are the adjustable caster bushings like? Can you just install them without making adjustments to the caster and when doing an alignment, also do they (people who do alignments) adjust these bushings?

Btw, I like the make shift bushing press

Hi, you need to press the new bush in. Once installed you rotate the centre of the bush and set the castor off set before refitting the control arm (comes with instructions).

Took about 4-5 hours for both sides, the small bush is a pig to get out because of the lip on each side. I ended up pressing one way then cutting off the lip and pressing the other way and as I mentioned you must press the large bush in to avoid damage.

 

[Sekred]

I am finally going to coils and going to try different spring rates. Have enough track time in the car to want less body roll and better compliance. Going to try Meister GT1 valved for 6/4 with their 5/3 springs and Swift springs of higher rate, see if I can come up with a fast road/track combo I can like.

I suspect your bushes would be too strong for my taste, but once on the path to more suspension who knows where it goes. Thanks.

I really can't feel much difference to NVH because of the change in suspension bushes, the increase in firmer ride is mainly from the higher spring rates.

 

[XuperXero]

Sekred, can you confirm if the ball joint is built into the control arm? Also, is it possible to pull the rubber boot off? I've been informed by a Ford mechanic that I can just pull off the boot and insert a new one.

 

[Sekred]

Sekred, can you confirm if the ball joint is built into the control arm? Also, is it possible to pull the rubber boot off? I've been informed by a Ford mechanic that I can just pull off the boot and insert a new one.

It is a "press in, press out" ball joint as far as I can see. I have not seen the ball joint sold separate from the control arm which may be a issue.
I think the boot is held on by a metal band that will need to be cut. You may have a problem securing the boot once it is removed.

 

[thePete]

Absolutely no reason or need to remove the knuckle to take the LCA out. Also no need to unbolt the axle, but it does give you room to move the spindle around a bit more. Be sure to torque that axle nut back to spec or expect to replace a wheel bearing in short order.

 

[Sekred]

Absolutely no reason or need to remove the knuckle to take the LCA out. Also no need to unbolt the axle, but it does give you room to move the spindle around a bit more. Be sure to torque that axle nut back to spec or expect to replace a wheel bearing in short order.

Have to disagree with you there and I have done it both ways. Removal is ok but reassembly can be a problem when reinstalling the LCA and lining up the ball joint and the spindle because of tension from the strut. The short axle side you need to take extra care you don't pop the axle out of the transmission (ask me how I know this).

 

[thePete]

Disagree all you want, I'm a dealership tech. I've done more LCAs than most of the users here. I'm speaking from experience. Again, at most, you undo the axle nut so you can have a little more flex, but it's not really required. It just makes life easier. I do LCAs in .7, both sides. I'm pretty confident I know how to do them quickly and effectively. And yes, I undo the axle nut. But I have done it without on vehicles with 12-pt axle nuts when I didn't have a 12pt axle nut socket available. I've also never, ever removed the entire knuckle to do a lower control arm.

 

[Sekred]

Disagree all you want, I'm a dealership tech. I've done more LCAs than most of the users here. I'm speaking from experience. Again, at most, you undo the axle nut so you can have a little more flex, but it's not really required. It just makes life easier. I do LCAs in .7, both sides. I'm pretty confident I know how to do them quickly and effectively. And yes, I undo the axle nut. But I have done it without on vehicles with 12-pt axle nuts when I didn't have a 12pt axle nut socket available. I've also never, ever removed the entire knuckle to do a lower control arm.

LOL, well as one Tech to another. You do it your way and I'll do it mine. Maybe you want to take the time and make your own thread(s).

 

[thePete]

LoL ok twinkle toes. You're the first person I've seen in a decade of professional wrenching that takes the entire knuckle off to do a lca. But you do you. Sorry for contributing.

 

[UtahST]

Disagree all you want, I'm a dealership tech. I've done more LCAs than most of the users here. I'm speaking from experience. Again, at most, you undo the axle nut so you can have a little more flex, but it's not really required. It just makes life easier. I do LCAs in .7, both sides. I'm pretty confident I know how to do them quickly and effectively. And yes, I undo the axle nut. But I have done it without on vehicles with 12-pt axle nuts when I didn't have a 12pt axle nut socket available. I've also never, ever removed the entire knuckle to do a lower control arm.

I replaced my LCA on a rebuild i was doing and the ball joint boot tore. Ive driven 5000 miles with the suspension a little wonky but now it feels like dog shit. Speaking, clunking over every bump(feels like an engine stall) and the car pulls a lot now. I know i need to redo the control arm but was that all from the ball joint? Or is there a good chance I messed something else up as well?