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Help .... battery terminals touched by ratchet and now car won’t start.

flbchbm

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#21
Can A Car Battery Be So Dead It Won’t Jump Start Anymore?
YES, a car battery can get so dead it will not receive a jump start anymore.
To cut to the chase, and just before we get to the meaty stuff, a “dead” car battery is an indicator of different factors—and almost always, these occur all at the same time.

SOME OF THESE FACTORS ARE:
• A battery reaches a state of discharge that is below the standard range of 12-volts, usually reaching to fields to 11.9-volts and below.
• A state of discharge that runs for so long, leaving the battery to temperature conditions that will make matters worse.
• The battery reaches a massive buildup (usually due to “discharge” again) of leaks, spillage, grease, grime or overall corrosion, leading to battery decay.
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Why your car won’t start after a jumpstart
There are several reasons why your car won’t start when trying a jump. Let’s review them, one by one:
  • Your battery is completely dead or terminally damaged: Your car battery works hard, day in and day out. It will not last forever. At some point, usually between the three-year and five-year mark from new, your battery will wear out and need replacing. Another possible cause is a defective cell or a short circuit within the battery. If this is the case, and the rest of the starting system has been verified to be in good condition, a new battery should solve the problem.
  • Your battery terminals are loose or corroded: The cables that attach to your battery carry its electrical current to the starter and the rest of the vehicle. If the connections where these cables attach are either covered in corrosion or not tightly connected, the power flow will be restricted, keeping your car from starting, even with a jump. Tightening the cable clamps or cleaning the corrosion off with a wire brush should restore the full flow of power from your battery.
  • Your alternator is bad: If your car still won't work, even after a jump, the alternator could be the culprit. The alternator is responsible for sending energy back to the battery, replacing what the battery loses from starting the car and performing other functions. The warning signs of a bad alternator are similar to those of a dying battery. If you've noticed your lights dimming or the battery light coming on, have your mechanic check the condition of the alternator, before you invest in a new battery.
  • Your starter is bad: The starter gets your engine going with energy from the battery. When your starter stops working, it can't “crank” the engine to get it started. Clicking or grinding sounds are clues that your starter might be the reason your car won’t start after a jump. Your mechanic can determine if your starter is bad when you take your car to the repair shop.
  • Your neutral safety switch is bad: On cars with automatic transmissions, there is a switch that will keep your car from starting unless the transmission is in either Park or Neutral. If this switch is bad or gets damaged, this information cannot be sent to the engine computer, and your car won’t start after a jumpstart.
  • Your jumper cables are bad: All jumper cables are not created equal. Inexpensive jumper cables that are not thick enough to carry sufficient current won’t perform to the level you expect, and your car won’t start after a jump. Cables that are too long have more internal resistance, and they may not transfer enough of the donor battery’s power to your car. If you are investing in a set of jumper cables, be sure to get a quality set of the right length that will perform when you need it to.
  • You may have a problem beyond your starting system: There can be numerous other reasons why your car won’t start after a jump, many of which have nothing to do with your battery, alternator, and starter. Your mechanic can diagnose the exact cause of the problem. These include:
  • Bad fuel pump
  • No fuel in gas tank
  • Fuel filter is clogged
  • Engine or powertrain computer failure
  • Bad catalytic converter
  • Fuel injection or carburetor problem
  • Timing belt failure
  • Worn-out spark plugs
  • Water in fuel lines (freezes in winter weather)
 


OP
Darkflamedesign
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Thread Starter #22
Ok .... the UPDATE .

Not the relays , not fuses . It was the PCM that went south. BUT was blessed overall in this situation. My Ford dealer ( I use for my fleet vehicles) took possession of car and kept for a few days before letting me know what happened. But the blessing came in form of a new PCM at “ no charge “ and at no installation cost either.

I was told item has a lifetime replacement. Now I’m happy as shit , car is back and ready for driving.
 


M-Sport fan

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#23
WOW, I had thought that all of the fuses, fusible links, relays, other safeguards, etc., built into the system would prevent that from happening, but I guess not. [:(]

Great that it was replaced, gratis, though. [thumb]

Makes a strong case for rubber insulation coated/Plasti-Dipped handles on all wrenches, and hand tools though. [wink] LOL
 


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Location
London, ON, Canada
#27
Ok .... the UPDATE .

Not the relays , not fuses . It was the PCM that went south. BUT was blessed overall in this situation. My Ford dealer ( I use for my fleet vehicles) took possession of car and kept for a few days before letting me know what happened. But the blessing came in form of a new PCM at “ no charge “ and at no installation cost either.

I was told item has a lifetime replacement. Now I’m happy as shit , car is back and ready for driving.
I'm guessing they weren't aware of the ratchet situation? ;)
 


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