HP upgrades by cost, including labor?

[TalkToTheFiST]

So i've got a '15 FIST with some mods done. Rear mount, lowering springs, K&N CAI, Magnaflow exhause delete, some cosmetics like splitter and spoiler extenders. Love the car, love the handling most of all, but if i had to pin down a weak point it's pure go. I doubt the current setup added much HP to the stock 198 so im looking at the next options. The next change i want is more HP.

Im not rich and i have wifey and kids so i can't just go spend $8k on anything, taking this one small step at a time. I have looked through many of the threads in Engine Upgrades. The ones that stand out most are catback and also downpipe. Im still new to automotive in general but as i understand it, the less resistance to exhause, the less power is robbed through friction.

Will a downpipe do any good without a catback first, and visa versa? And the bigger question really, are there any modes that include labor which are better to do first on a budget? I don't know enough to do any of these myself yet so i would be finding a shop. Assuming a local shop offers average labor cost, anything stand out as the next step ?

For context, this is more or less a project car to learn on as i go, i'd like to get it to about 300HP eventually. I have seen a few on YT at over 300 that were relatively affordable. Just trying to get a feel for what everything will cost. If i had to guess i'd say the catback is a good option as it seems easier to access than other mods but i wanted to defer to you guys here. Any advice is appreciated and will be reading in the meantime, thanks !

 

[MRX330]

A once proud and mighty FiST warrior once said
“Buy once, cry once” It’s true, very true

 

[Hypergram]

Looking forward to where this thread goes! I'm fairly new to this world too, but I'll help where I can. A downpipe itself will increase performance but is much better when paired to good catback since the OEM exhaust is pretty restrictive. A catback on its own pretty much just changes the tone; maybe 1-3 horsepower gain if that. I installed the Mountune Catback on my Fiesta over the summer. Install went alright for the first time working on a car, so it is possible to DIY with relative ease. If you have questions about that please ask cause there's a fair bit of useful information about exhausts. If you get a downpipe or any other extensive mods you'll need a tune and a Cobb Accesport, which is around $500 new plus a tune, best to get them from stratified auto or Dizzy. You can get a custom map (more expensive) or a premade off the shelf tune. In terms of other additional mods, a better intercooler is a great next step, Whoosh V3 is probably the best bang for your buck. Great performance and cost.

 

[MRX330]

Power should go hand in hand with reliability. If not you will cry and buy more than once.
Caveat emptor

 

[Hypergram]

Another piece of advise I would say is to the look at the Mountune "MR/#" or "FB#" packs which have lots of good mod configurations. Just take from those, and look for cheaper/better alternatives elsewhere, since Mountune can get pretty expensive (though the reward points are nice)

 

[green_henry]

Another piece of advise I would say is to the look at the Mountune "MR/#" or "FB#" packs which have lots of good mod configurations. Just take from those, and look for cheaper/better alternatives elsewhere, since Mountune can get pretty expensive (though the reward points are nice)

Mountune's reward points are definitely nice. E.g., while tirerack had a better price on Stoptech rotors, the points I accrued from my radiator upgrade, short shift kit, and a few relatively inexpensive mods paid for 90% of the rotors.

 

[Hypergram]

Mountune's reward points are definitely nice. E.g., while tirerack had a better price on Stoptech rotors, the points I accrued from my radiator upgrade, short shift kit, and a few relatively inexpensive mods paid for 90% of the rotors.

Yeah it really helps in the little stuff

 

[TalkToTheFiST]

Another piece of advise I would say is to the look at the Mountune "MR/#" or "FB#" packs which have lots of good mod configurations. Just take from those, and look for cheaper/better alternatives elsewhere, since Mountune can get pretty expensive (though the reward points are nice)

Heya Hyper (and MRX). So i was just reading the FAQ for beginners thread posted by Goingnowherefast. He lists a lot of what i was asking, the first thing on the list was a tune which i wasn't sure where to rate it compared to others. So the COBB access port is $500, then the actual tunes are as cheap as $50 or so?

Also, what other access mediums are there other than the port? Is it possible a shop has an access port and will charge me a fee to install a tune, without me actually buying the port itself? Are there any other brands of hardware ect? Trying to get a visual on the different ways to get the software into the car.

 

[MRX330]

How much money do you have for us to spend?

 

[Hypergram]

Yeah the AP (Accessport) is pretty expensive, but you can buy an unmarried (unused) pre-owned for cheaper. And the tunes are much cheaper correct. The port has a lot of other uses besides just the tune, you get gauges, OBD2 info, on the spot tune changes (so you can go from crackly exhaust straight to flat foot shifting or launch control). I know other cars like the GTR you can buy a racing chip or special software upgrade box, but I don't know if those exist for the FiST. Also, I don't know if you can just go to the shop for a team. I'd imagine you could though. Cobb is the best by far. Mountune makes an MTune (rebranded AP) which only has their tunes on it, so a lot less freedom and they're difficult to take off. One thing to know, if you still have a warranty, tunes will basically write it off unless you can talk with your service manager beforehand.

 

[MRX330]

If you are ready for more power, make sure you buy parts that are future proof. Also buy a real turbo with cartridge ball bearings. Lots of happy Garrett GTX owners in here. I’m partial to my Mountune setup as I wanted power with no lag. It’s all about moving air in and out of the engine efficiently. How much air is up to you.

 

[MRX330]

With a “July” code you can get the Mountune MR280 kit with an Accessport for $2915. That should give you a good baseline.

 

[TalkToTheFiST]

Yeah the AP (Accessport) is pretty expensive, but you can buy an unmarried (unused) pre-owned for cheaper. And the tunes are much cheaper correct. The port has a lot of other uses besides just the tune, you get gauges, OBD2 info, on the spot tune changes (so you can go from crackly exhaust straight to flat foot shifting or launch control). I know other cars like the GTR you can buy a racing chip or special software upgrade box, but I don't know if those exist for the FiST. Also, I don't know if you can just go to the shop for a team. I'd imagine you could though. Cobb is the best by far. Mountune makes an MTune (rebranded AP) which only has their tunes on it, so a lot less freedom and they're difficult to take off. One thing to know, if you still have a warranty, tunes will basically write it off unless you can talk with your service manager beforehand.

So i don't think at this point the other things you mentioned interest me, ggauges, OBD2 info ect, just after more HP. As i learn and grow more into my gearhead skin i think the other stuff will grow on me but that's years away. Interesting you mention chips, i was just looking up performance chips and found a brand called PCR (Performance Chip Revamp) specifically for the Fiesta (ST or just Fiesta?). Can $59 be a decent improvement?

I did more reading on chips and they aren't as agile as a legit tune in that you can't really change them on the fly and they give nothing more than "performance", and they tend to be more for stock cars. But im not likely to fiddle with any tunes as is and my car is fairly stock other than the intake. Another thing, chips are claimed to not void the warranty as they don't leave perminent software changes, is that true? I ask bc my car is still under warranty with Ford at 32k miles, up to 50k i believe.

 

[MRX330]

No chips ever

 

[Spork1569]

So i don't think at this point the other things you mentioned interest me, ggauges, OBD2 info ect, just after more HP. As i learn and grow more into my gearhead skin i think the other stuff will grow on me but that's years away. Interesting you mention chips, i was just looking up performance chips and found a brand called PCR (Performance Chip Revamp) specifically for the Fiesta (ST or just Fiesta?). Can $59 be a decent improvement?

I did more reading on chips and they aren't as agile as a legit tune in that you can't really change them on the fly and they give nothing more than "performance", and they tend to be more for stock cars. But im not likely to fiddle with any tunes as is and my car is fairly stock other than the intake. Another thing, chips are claimed to not void the warranty as they don't leave perminent software changes, is that true? I ask bc my car is still under warranty with Ford at 32k miles, up to 50k i believe.

I've always been weary of any performance chip/ obd plug in that you can buy on eBay or Amazon for so cheap as they usually only result in tricking your engine into running rich for the conditions, which would later be adapted against by your ecu.

I think the reason so many are vouching for the AP or any real tuning device(not sure of other brands but I know there are others besides the access port available) is that the performance is tangible and proven, and for the most part safe as long as you're not trying to run 40 psi on a stock turbo lol.

The gauges and diagnostics are awesome too but the value really comes in being able to adjust the car as you need, and opening up access to tuners who know what they're doing with our car such as Stratified, Dizzy, Tune+, ect.

I think most of us were in your shoes and experienced the hesitancy to purchase such an expensive mod. I think as with anything in the world if you want quality you're going to have to pay for it.

I'm not rich myself, far from it. Had to save up quite a bit for the accessport as well as the intercooler upgrade but the quality of those pieces made it worth it, as well as the piece of mind that I'm putting something better in my car than was there originally.

Takeaway to all this is modding is not a cheap hobby but it is still possible to be smart and find some deals to make it worthwhile. If you don't mind waiting to snag a deal you can wait for some great stuff to post for sale here on the forums, as well as the occasional holiday sales from vendors.

Read through the forums as there's a lot to learn and you can pretty easily decipher a mod path that'll work for you. If you want as much performance out of the stock snail an IC and AP are pretty much enough to squeeze 90 percent out of it. Where you go from there is really up to you. I'm slowly building components to one day go hybrid while others want to go big turbo right away.

Also the best way to save money is to install the mods yourself obviously. Most things can be done with enough patience and garage space, and the feeling of accomplishment when you finish a big project is better than no other. Interested to see where your build heads.

 

[green_henry]

.... Also the best way to save money is to install the mods yourself obviously. Most things can be done with enough patience and garage space, and the feeling of accomplishment when you finish a big project is better than no other. Interested to see where your build heads.

^^^^ +1

 

[MRX330]

Shhh he’s reading

 

[TalkToTheFiST]

Shhh he’s reading

LOL.

I've always been weary of any performance chip/ obd plug in that you can buy on eBay or Amazon for so cheap as they usually only result in tricking your engine into running rich for the conditions, which would later be adapted against by your ecu.

I think the reason so many are vouching for the AP or any real tuning device(not sure of other brands but I know there are others besides the access port available) is that the performance is tangible and proven, and for the most part safe as long as you're not trying to run 40 psi on a stock turbo lol.

The gauges and diagnostics are awesome too but the value really comes in being able to adjust the car as you need, and opening up access to tuners who know what they're doing with our car such as Stratified, Dizzy, Tune+, ect.

I think most of us were in your shoes and experienced the hesitancy to purchase such an expensive mod. I think as with anything in the world if you want quality you're going to have to pay for it.

I'm not rich myself, far from it. Had to save up quite a bit for the accessport as well as the intercooler upgrade but the quality of those pieces made it worth it, as well as the piece of mind that I'm putting something better in my car than was there originally.

Takeaway to all this is modding is not a cheap hobby but it is still possible to be smart and find some deals to make it worthwhile. If you don't mind waiting to snag a deal you can wait for some great stuff to post for sale here on the forums, as well as the occasional holiday sales from vendors.

Read through the forums as there's a lot to learn and you can pretty easily decipher a mod path that'll work for you. If you want as much performance out of the stock snail an IC and AP are pretty much enough to squeeze 90 percent out of it. Where you go from there is really up to you. I'm slowly building components to one day go hybrid while others want to go big turbo right away.

Also the best way to save money is to install the mods yourself obviously. Most things can be done with enough patience and garage space, and the feeling of accomplishment when you finish a big project is better than no other. Interested to see where your build heads.

Thanks for the info here. I may be putting the cart before the horse here too, that thought ocurred to me as i was looking at catback prices and piping. I honestly still don't know for sure my car doesn't have that already lol. It's easy to see the "muffler" and intake are different as they are visible from any stock photo but im not sure what the underbelly is supposed to look like, or the turbo for that matter. Does the FiST come with a stock IC?

Perhaps tomorrow i can take a few photos in good light and find some comparison shots here. The car did not come with an access port so im guessing no tune is installed but i should probly be sure about the hardware before i can decide where to go next.

 

[Spork1569]

LOL.




Thanks for the info here. I may be putting the cart before the horse here too, that thought ocurred to me as i was looking at catback prices and piping. I honestly still don't know for sure my car doesn't have that already lol. It's easy to see the "muffler" and intake are different as they are visible from any stock photo but im not sure what the underbelly is supposed to look like, or the turbo for that matter. Does the FiST come with a stock IC?

Perhaps tomorrow i can take a few photos in good light and find some comparison shots here. The car did not come with an access port so im guessing no tune is installed but i should probly be sure about the hardware before i can decide where to go next.

For the cat back look for tips that stick out beyond the bumper as some of the mainstream ones like Cobb and Mountune use that as an opportunity to stick their logo on the cat back tips.

The stock intercooler is puny compared to aftermarket ones and has plastic ends which are pretty easy to tell apart from an upgraded one as well.

If you're unsure of whether something is modded or not you can always post a pic here and ask the community, after a while you pick up an eye to tell what is and isn't stock.

 

[Dpro]

Lotta misinformation flying in this thread.
So lets start with the first stuff, the stock exhaust is really not that restrictive for the size of our engines and turbo’s Ford actually did a decent job with it. Is it too quite? Yes, hence a possibility why the put sound symposers on the cars.
Next up is downpipe unless you have gone hybrid or big Turbo the stock downpipe is fine . You will not see HP gains from changing it out unless you have upgraded your turbo. Plus there are guys running hybrids on stock downpipes and still getting pretty decent HP and TQ increases.
Also decating the downpipe on our cars does not give much more HP either though people love to do it because of what they read on the interwebs.
I put on an exhaust for one main reason to hear my car how I should hear it.
The added plus is it is a 3 inch exhaust some will tell you our cars do not need 3 inch exhausts that is debatable as in the rest of the Turbo world its alway been the less backpressure the better.
Oh and again deleting the cat does not create much less backpressure. Lol
‘Now on to the AP’s from Mountune, Mountune sells both Mtune AP’s that have their MP215 or MP230 tunes on them in those packages which are locked or unlocked AP’s with Custom tunes from Randy at Mountune.
You can load any tune you want from any tuner you want on those you do not have to stick with Randys tunes.

Like others have said an AP a RMM and your off to a good start. Other mods like a crossover pipe , dyno proven to increase power by Jason at Dizzy tune, an intake tube and intake allow you to hear your turbo and blowoff valve better.

A mod that is also good is to remove the baffled hot side charge pipe for an aftermarket one that is straight through with no baffles. It will increase charge flow and again allow you to hear more of your turbo and diverter valve aka blowoff valve.

Intercoolers are wise as well as the stock one on are cars is dinky. It will heatsoak if you put it through a bunch of canyon runs or track runs.
Lots of ways to go with that.

Another good idea is radiator upgrade as again our stock radiators are on the small side and some have had overheating issues with them.
Not too many choices here Mountune and Mishimoto being the main ones.

All the other mods after this get into a fair amount more money.

I also feel Koni Oranges are a waste of money as they are too soft for the car. If you go Koni get the Yellows.

Its hard to list labor for some of this stuff because labor rates totally vary by region and cost of living in a particular region . For instance in a lot of the San Francisco bay area labor is $150 an hour or more but can be as cheap as $90 in parts of the east bay.
In LA labor bounces anywhere from $75-100 an hour and can go higher in expensive parts of the city.
So to ask for labor rates is really a variable question.