HP upgrades by cost, including labor?

[Hypergram]

Yeah, Dpro really summed it up lol. Thank you.

 

[MRX330]

Where’s the misinformation flying around? No one was talking out of their ass here.

 

[TalkToTheFiST]

Thanks for al that info DPRO, lots to digest there. Tomorrow i will get a bunch of pics of anything that might give insight on what's in the car. I was reading an article HERE and they claim a stage 1 consists of a tune and drop in air filter, which is good for about 3WHP gain up to 187 (208BHP/248TQ). They say stage two takes you up to 211WHP on a dyno (234BHP/302TQ), which consists of a CAI, tune and bigger IC. They also mention stage 3 but say it's a small bump for the cost.

So if they are correct, and i already have a K&N CAI, then a tune and a bigger IC will actually get me to 234BHP, and 211 at the wheel? It's even possible i already have an upgraded IC but will check that out tomorrow. I wish i had a full on stock FIST to drive to see if i can feel a difference in power.

 

[wetwea33]

Yeah most of the people commenting on this have no clue what they are saying. Just get a used accessport, I picked mine up for 250$. Other then an intercooler and a custom tune(e30 if it's available) , nothing else is needed for the stock turbo.

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[Ford ST]

Lotta misinformation flying in this thread.
So lets start with the first stuff, the stock exhaust is really not that restrictive for the size of our engines and turbo’s Ford actually did a decent job with it. Is it too quite? Yes, hence a possibility why the put sound symposers on the cars.
Next up is downpipe unless you have gone hybrid or big Turbo the stock downpipe is fine . You will not see HP gains from changing it out unless you have upgraded your turbo. Plus there are guys running hybrids on stock downpipes and still getting pretty decent HP and TQ increases.
Also decating the downpipe on our cars does not give much more HP either though people love to do it because of what they read on the interwebs.
I put on an exhaust for one main reason to hear my car how I should hear it.
The added plus is it is a 3 inch exhaust some will tell you our cars do not need 3 inch exhausts that is debatable as in the rest of the Turbo world its alway been the less backpressure the better.
Oh and again deleting the cat does not create much less backpressure. Lol
‘Now on to the AP’s from Mountune, Mountune sells both Mtune AP’s that have their MP215 or MP230 tunes on them in those packages which are locked or unlocked AP’s with Custom tunes from Randy at Mountune.
You can load any tune you want from any tuner you want on those you do not have to stick with Randys tunes.

Like others have said an AP a RMM and your off to a good start. Other mods like a crossover pipe , dyno proven to increase power by Jason at Dizzy tune, an intake tube and intake allow you to hear your turbo and blowoff valve better.

A mod that is also good is to remove the baffled hot side charge pipe for an aftermarket one that is straight through with no baffles. It will increase charge flow and again allow you to hear more of your turbo and diverter valve aka blowoff valve.

Intercooers are wise as well as the stock one on are cars is dinky. It will heatsoak if you put it through a bunch of canyon runs or track runs.
Lots of ways to go with that.

Another good idea is radiator upgrade as again our stock radiators are on the small side and some have had overheating issues with them.
Not too many choices here Mountune and Mishimoto being the main ones.

All the other mods after this get into a fair amount more money.

I also feel Koni Oranges are a waste of money as they are too soft for the car. If you go Koni get the Yellows.

Its hard to list labor for some of this stuff because labor rates totally vary by region and cost of living in a particular region . For instance in a lot of the San Francisco bay area labor is $150 an hour or more but can be as cheap as $90 in parts of the east bay.
In LA labor bounces anywhere from $75-100 an hour and can go higher in expensive parts of the city.
So to ask for labor rates is really a variable question.

This is by far the best explanation so far on this thread.


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[MRX330]

Yeah most of the people commenting on this have no clue what they are saying. Just get a used accessport, I picked mine up for 250$. Other then an intercooler and a custom tune(e30 if it's available) , nothing else is needed for the stock turbo.

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The goal the OP set to achieve was more power and to reach 300 hp eventually.

 

[MRX330]

This is by far the best explanation so far on this thread.


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The goal the OP set to achieve was more power and to reach 300 hp eventually.

 

[Ford ST]

The goal the OP set to achieve was more power and to reach 300 hp eventually.

Key word is eventually and he's obviously on a budget like most of us. First step is to get a proper tune. He may feel once he gets a proper tune especially if he decides to do an E30 tune with a upgraded intercooler that the significant increase in torque, and increase in horsepower will fill his desires for now.

300 horsepower and a budget do not go together.

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[MRX330]

We were responding to his initial request.

 

[Se7eN]

If anything seems kinda complicated in the way of installing something I recommend this channel on YouTube.

Auto Repair Guys, they have 200+ videos on how to change and work on the MK7 Fiesta (which they use an ST for most of them)

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWACgGfAz_c&list=PLCML_9WPdDdkhdefo2gI_8D2tlDRYjSiN

 

[MRX330]

They have nice watches. Millymeeter

 

[jeff]

I was gonna start typing a book but then I read what @Dpro said, he's right on, listen to all of that.

To your original question here's what I'd do if I were in your shoes trying to pinch pennies:

STEP 1
Don't buy anything on credit - save up cash for mods...and don't keep secrets from your wife in this regard...just my .02 fwiw, secrets are never good

STEP 2
Get a used Accessport, panel filter
AP = $300 used + $30 panel filter
LABOR = free - both of these are very simple install, anyone can do it
Use one of the free Cobb OTS 'stage 1' tunes for now, enjoy it for a time

STEP 3
Get a used FMIC
FMIC = $300 used
LABOR = $200ish, but it is pretty simple you can do it yourself for free, just saying...it's just legos at this point
Use one of the free Cobb OTS 'stage 2' tunes for now, enjoy the power bump over 'stage 1'

STEP 4
Get some proven air mods that help with spool/small HP and TQ increases
INDUCTION HOSE, CROSSOVER PIPE = <$200
LABOR = $200ish, but again these are pretty simple to install, perhaps a member lives near you who can help you, I don't remember where you're at but if you're in the southeast I'd help you install all this stuff for free

STEP 5
Get a better tune
STRATIFIED or DIZZY etc. tune = <$100, a nice bump in power/drivability over Cobb's OTS tunes
or
CUSTOM TUNE = $350, this is the ultimate way to go, I suggest a lifetime package which is more $$$ but will be needed if you want more power with a turbo upgrade later...

*****
At this point you're about at the max power level for stock turbo...forget the exhaust and downpipe and charge pipes...my .02...you should be at/around 220-230hp and 280-310tq with a good custom tune depending on whether you're on pump gas or ethanol blend...

At this point you have a car that is still slow but feels really quick, has horrible torque steer, wheel hop, etc.

I'd recommend doing some traction/suspension mods before going for any more power...that is a whole different discussion...
*****
If you decide to take the next step which is upgrading the turbo, get ready to spend more money. I'll offer a video I made that might give some insight, this is what I learned and what I spent...true "big turbos" like the Garretts and MRX offer great power with a later power curve than the hybrids...you'll need to research that as well before spending your money...hybrids spool earlier and offer comparable power while keeping stock spool/feel...it's all about how you want the car to drive...anyhow here's that video on the true cost of a turbo upgrade...

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3NtaeQZBRo&t=7s


Good luck!

 

[MRX330]

He wants 300 horsepower.. He doesn’t want a tune. He has no money. 🍿

 

[TalkToTheFiST]

He wants 300 horsepower.. He doesn’t want a tune. He has no money. 🍿

Sorry friend you haven't been listening. Im just trying to organize a plan, based on price/performance. I just spent about $2k on photography gear last year, my other hobby, plus bought this car. My wife is an angel but only has so much patience. Im holding off on all other toys so my budget can rebound for car upgrades.

I was gonna start typing a book but then I read what @Dpro said, he's right on, listen to all of that.

To your original question here's what I'd do if I were in your shoes trying to pinch pennies:

STEP 1
Don't buy anything on credit - save up cash for mods...and don't keep secrets from your wife in this regard...just my .02 fwiw, secrets are never good

STEP 2
Get a used Accessport, panel filter
AP = $300 used + $30 panel filter
LABOR = free - both of these are very simple install, anyone can do it
Use one of the free Cobb OTS 'stage 1' tunes for now, enjoy it for a time

STEP 3
Get a used FMIC
FMIC = $300 used
LABOR = $200ish, but it is pretty simple you can do it yourself for free, just saying...it's just legos at this point
Use one of the free Cobb OTS 'stage 2' tunes for now, enjoy the power bump over 'stage 1'

STEP 4
Get some proven air mods that help with spool/small HP and TQ increases
INDUCTION HOSE, CROSSOVER PIPE = <$200
LABOR = $200ish, but again these are pretty simple to install, perhaps a member lives near you who can help you, I don't remember where you're at but if you're in the southeast I'd help you install all this stuff for free

STEP 5
Get a better tune
STRATIFIED or DIZZY etc. tune = <$100, a nice bump in power/drivability over Cobb's OTS tunes
or
CUSTOM TUNE = $350, this is the ultimate way to go, I suggest a lifetime package which is more $$$ but will be needed if you want more power with a turbo upgrade later...

*****
At this point you're about at the max power level for stock turbo...forget the exhaust and downpipe and charge pipes...my .02...you should be at/around 220-230hp and 280-310tq with a good custom tune depending on whether you're on pump gas or ethanol blend...

At this point you have a car that is still slow but feels really quick, has horrible torque steer, wheel hop, etc.

I'd recommend doing some traction/suspension mods before going for any more power...that is a whole different discussion...
*****
If you decide to take the next step which is upgrading the turbo, get ready to spend more money. I'll offer a video I made that might give some insight, this is what I learned and what I spent...true "big turbos" like the Garretts and MRX offer great power with a later power curve than the hybrids...you'll need to research that as well before spending your money...hybrids spool earlier and offer comparable power while keeping stock spool/feel...it's all about how you want the car to drive...anyhow here's that video on the true cost of a turbo upgrade...

Good luck!

Really appreciate this info Jeff. Your #1/2 sounds like the best route first. I don't do credit and i don't keep anything from the wife, and the used access port and free COBB tune give me a place to start. I was already going to spend a couple hundred this summer on my camera, the used AP instead won't be an issue financially.

After that $500 for a used IC isn't a fortune to scrape up, which seems like at stage 2 would be a noticeable difference in power. FWIW i took some shots today and i think my exhaust line and IC are stock, but you guys be the judge. I see FoMoCo in two places, i assume that's Ford Motor Co? If so at least i know what's under the hood now. in the 2nd shot that's a top down shot of the IC no?


Below, is that the plastic sides that were mentioned?

 

[Ford ST]

You are correct those are both stock.
The exhaust makes no difference on these cars really it's just for noise. It was the first thing I did because I hate stock exhaust systems. The intercooler and accessport are the best upgrades you can make. I'm doing my intercooler upcoming spring.

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[TalkToTheFiST]

You are correct those are both stock.
The exhaust makes no difference on these cars really it's just for noise. It was the first thing I did because I hate stock exhaust systems. The intercooler and accessport are the best upgrades you can make. I'm doing my intercooler upcoming spring.

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Ok good to know. So i have seen a FoST in town and also heard several stock FiSTs on video and i don't think my car sounds like they do. It seems louder and i can definitely hear the whistle of the spool and the blowoff when shifting. is this due to the CAI ?

I also think my car exhaust sounds louder, although i admit video and real life are hard to compare. But could it be due to my "muffler" ? I tried looking it up and maybe im wrong, is this called a muffler delete? Meaning it does less muffling and allows more noise to exit the pipe?

 

[Spork1569]

I would also recommend picking up some of the small QOL mods that don't break the bank, but have a discernable difference whenever you can spare some cash. Some of the best sub-$100 mods I really liked are the Powerflex Passenger and Transmission mount Bushings(helps stiffen up the other 2 mounts that aren't the rear motor mount), a short shifter(most are pretty much the same or comparable, Whoosh is cheapest) , changing the transmission fluid and the hotside J pipe were all immediately noticible and very good bang for your buck mods.

 

[Spork1569]

Ok good to know. So i have seen a FoST in town and also heard several stock FiSTs on video and i don't think my car sounds like they do. It seems louder and i can definitely hear the whistle of the spool and the blowoff when shifting. is this due to the CAI ?

I also think my car exhaust sounds louder, although i admit video and real life are hard to compare. But could it be due to my "muffler" ? I tried looking it up and maybe im wrong, is this called a muffler delete? Meaning it does less muffling and allows more noise to exit the pipe? View attachment 22222 View attachment 22223

Yeah it looks like the last person deleted the muffler and put some magna flow tips on the car.

 

[TalkToTheFiST]

Yeah it looks like the last person deleted the muffler and put some magna flow tips on the car.

Ok well im good with that then. I like the sound of it as is fairly well, it's has a rather low growl to the note. I do love that whisle and whoosh though lol. So i have a clear direction at least, AP and beginner tune and then scrape up enough to get the FMIC and another tune.

After that i may reference Jeff's post and look at airflow and a top end tune. I planned on doing this all over a year or two so im in no hurry, but i wanted to get some kind of noticeable power jump within a few months from now. Looks like that's the FMIC and stage 2 tune. After that i'll take a break and save up.

I appreciate all the info here, everybody here has been very helpful. Gonna keep reading and soaking it up so feel free anybody to add more to the thread.

 

[Ford ST]

Ok well im good with that then. I like the sound of it as is fairly well, it's has a rather low growl to the note. I do love that whisle and whoosh though lol. So i have a clear direction at least, AP and beginner tune and then scrape up enough to get the FMIC and another tune.

After that i may reference Jeff's post and look at airflow and a top end tune. I planned on doing this all over a year or two so im in no hurry, but i wanted to get some kind of noticeable power jump within a few months from now. Looks like that's the FMIC and stage 2 tune. After that i'll take a break and save up.

I appreciate all the info here, everybody here has been very helpful. Gonna keep reading and soaking it up so feel free anybody to add more to the thread.

Yep they did a muffler delete you still have the stock resonator in the front. The cold air intake that you have will definitely make more noise. I have the ST200 airbox.

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