If ride quality on a 1-10 scale 10 being the most comfortable was at a 3 on the stock suspension, I'd say this combo is a 5.5. The ride is less busy over smaller bumps, but bigger bumps are still very much there. We've only taken one drive on the setup but we accidentally came across a pretty rotten piece of road and the car was way more comfortable than we expected. But again, we kept being reminded that big bumps are still felt. I think there is a small step backwards in the handling department. Over time we'll see. Yes, the car is lower, and yes the shocks are more compliant so there is a concern about speed bumps, but after warning my wife about it she got flustered over a few and really fudged a couple and we didn't bottom out. She explained that she thought I did all this so she could go faster over speed bumps. I had to clarify lol. I don't have pictures. I'm sure it looks like everyone else with Eibachs, though there are some Koni applications that cause lowering of their own, supposedly because they are low-pressure gas shocks. I guess there's a possibility there is some additional lowering from that but I'm not going to bother to measure.
Install notes:
- get yourself a 13mm flexible ratcheting box-end wrench for the front strut hat nuts.
- the backs of the studs for the font strut tops fit into notches in the strut top bearing/bushing. Don't forget to make sure those are seated correctly in those notches before reassembling the struts
- get yourself an 18mm offset box-end wrench for the strut top nut...or something similar since it's recessed pretty far down into the top hat. The more offset the better. Something like an O2 sensor wrench would be ideal here, though I don't think they come in 18mm
- A set of Alan keys for both the strut top nut and the endlinks are needed as well.
- The missing mount in the struts for the ABS sensor line zip tie looks like a complete non-issue. There is a little round hole there and I bet there is an application out there that would fit that hole if you wanted to be really comprehensive with your install.
- you have to remove at least both rear lower shock bolts to get the rear axle to droop enough to get the rear springs out. Keep the rear axle supported by a jack when you do this.
- the rear strut boots/bump stops wont fit over the whatever you call the plastic fitting at the top of the rear shock tubes that comes with the Konis. You need to remove that plastic cap from the OEM struts and transfer it over to the Konis. Only problem is that the Koni strut tube is a little bigger than OEM and causes it to flare out a little. So, there is friction when the strut boot passes over the cap. I greased mine but I can see that as being a source of squeaking if it doesn't clearance itself by wearing in. If I'm not mistaken I already heard it moaning on our first drive, but it was hard to hear over everything else. Time will tell if it is going to be a problem.
- take time to clean dirt out of your spring seats front and rear to prevent possible squeaks later.
- getting the rear shocks out does not require removing the interior trim around the hatch. Like many other rear axle FWD cars they are held to the chassis by bolts underneath.
- take time to study the orientation OEM springs in their mounts so you can replicate it with the new springs. The key thing to look for is where the coils end in their mounts. Just mirror that and you're good.
Other interesting things I found...I already knew this car, with only 7K miles had a leaking passenger side axle seal. In doing this work I found the driver's side axle seal is also leaking, and the muffler isn't completely sealed either - a bunch of water poured out of the front seam on the muffler when I jacked up the back. I can see why the Fiesta gets lousy reliability ratings.
EDIT: did some more driving. Driving comfort is a 6.5. Handling has taken a hit - noticeable increase in understeer. Doesn't feel like an ST-style edgy car any more. I don't think I can call the handling "exceptional" any more. Feels like the car took a step towards something like a Veloster Turbo with a stronger engine and an aftermarket suspension. Probably more suited to our needs, really.
Install notes:
- get yourself a 13mm flexible ratcheting box-end wrench for the front strut hat nuts.
- the backs of the studs for the font strut tops fit into notches in the strut top bearing/bushing. Don't forget to make sure those are seated correctly in those notches before reassembling the struts
- get yourself an 18mm offset box-end wrench for the strut top nut...or something similar since it's recessed pretty far down into the top hat. The more offset the better. Something like an O2 sensor wrench would be ideal here, though I don't think they come in 18mm
- A set of Alan keys for both the strut top nut and the endlinks are needed as well.
- The missing mount in the struts for the ABS sensor line zip tie looks like a complete non-issue. There is a little round hole there and I bet there is an application out there that would fit that hole if you wanted to be really comprehensive with your install.
- you have to remove at least both rear lower shock bolts to get the rear axle to droop enough to get the rear springs out. Keep the rear axle supported by a jack when you do this.
- the rear strut boots/bump stops wont fit over the whatever you call the plastic fitting at the top of the rear shock tubes that comes with the Konis. You need to remove that plastic cap from the OEM struts and transfer it over to the Konis. Only problem is that the Koni strut tube is a little bigger than OEM and causes it to flare out a little. So, there is friction when the strut boot passes over the cap. I greased mine but I can see that as being a source of squeaking if it doesn't clearance itself by wearing in. If I'm not mistaken I already heard it moaning on our first drive, but it was hard to hear over everything else. Time will tell if it is going to be a problem.
- take time to clean dirt out of your spring seats front and rear to prevent possible squeaks later.
- getting the rear shocks out does not require removing the interior trim around the hatch. Like many other rear axle FWD cars they are held to the chassis by bolts underneath.
- take time to study the orientation OEM springs in their mounts so you can replicate it with the new springs. The key thing to look for is where the coils end in their mounts. Just mirror that and you're good.
Other interesting things I found...I already knew this car, with only 7K miles had a leaking passenger side axle seal. In doing this work I found the driver's side axle seal is also leaking, and the muffler isn't completely sealed either - a bunch of water poured out of the front seam on the muffler when I jacked up the back. I can see why the Fiesta gets lousy reliability ratings.
EDIT: did some more driving. Driving comfort is a 6.5. Handling has taken a hit - noticeable increase in understeer. Doesn't feel like an ST-style edgy car any more. I don't think I can call the handling "exceptional" any more. Feels like the car took a step towards something like a Veloster Turbo with a stronger engine and an aftermarket suspension. Probably more suited to our needs, really.