Installed Koni STR.Ts and Eibachs...

[Joe Schmoe]

If ride quality on a 1-10 scale 10 being the most comfortable was at a 3 on the stock suspension, I'd say this combo is a 5.5. The ride is less busy over smaller bumps, but bigger bumps are still very much there. We've only taken one drive on the setup but we accidentally came across a pretty rotten piece of road and the car was way more comfortable than we expected. But again, we kept being reminded that big bumps are still felt. I think there is a small step backwards in the handling department. Over time we'll see. Yes, the car is lower, and yes the shocks are more compliant so there is a concern about speed bumps, but after warning my wife about it she got flustered over a few and really fudged a couple and we didn't bottom out. She explained that she thought I did all this so she could go faster over speed bumps. I had to clarify lol. I don't have pictures. I'm sure it looks like everyone else with Eibachs, though there are some Koni applications that cause lowering of their own, supposedly because they are low-pressure gas shocks. I guess there's a possibility there is some additional lowering from that but I'm not going to bother to measure.

Install notes:
- get yourself a 13mm flexible ratcheting box-end wrench for the front strut hat nuts.
- the backs of the studs for the font strut tops fit into notches in the strut top bearing/bushing. Don't forget to make sure those are seated correctly in those notches before reassembling the struts
- get yourself an 18mm offset box-end wrench for the strut top nut...or something similar since it's recessed pretty far down into the top hat. The more offset the better. Something like an O2 sensor wrench would be ideal here, though I don't think they come in 18mm
- A set of Alan keys for both the strut top nut and the endlinks are needed as well.
- The missing mount in the struts for the ABS sensor line zip tie looks like a complete non-issue. There is a little round hole there and I bet there is an application out there that would fit that hole if you wanted to be really comprehensive with your install.
- you have to remove at least both rear lower shock bolts to get the rear axle to droop enough to get the rear springs out. Keep the rear axle supported by a jack when you do this.
- the rear strut boots/bump stops wont fit over the whatever you call the plastic fitting at the top of the rear shock tubes that comes with the Konis. You need to remove that plastic cap from the OEM struts and transfer it over to the Konis. Only problem is that the Koni strut tube is a little bigger than OEM and causes it to flare out a little. So, there is friction when the strut boot passes over the cap. I greased mine but I can see that as being a source of squeaking if it doesn't clearance itself by wearing in. If I'm not mistaken I already heard it moaning on our first drive, but it was hard to hear over everything else. Time will tell if it is going to be a problem.
- take time to clean dirt out of your spring seats front and rear to prevent possible squeaks later.
- getting the rear shocks out does not require removing the interior trim around the hatch. Like many other rear axle FWD cars they are held to the chassis by bolts underneath.
- take time to study the orientation OEM springs in their mounts so you can replicate it with the new springs. The key thing to look for is where the coils end in their mounts. Just mirror that and you're good.


Other interesting things I found...I already knew this car, with only 7K miles had a leaking passenger side axle seal. In doing this work I found the driver's side axle seal is also leaking, and the muffler isn't completely sealed either - a bunch of water poured out of the front seam on the muffler when I jacked up the back. I can see why the Fiesta gets lousy reliability ratings.


EDIT: did some more driving. Driving comfort is a 6.5. Handling has taken a hit - noticeable increase in understeer. Doesn't feel like an ST-style edgy car any more. I don't think I can call the handling "exceptional" any more. Feels like the car took a step towards something like a Veloster Turbo with a stronger engine and an aftermarket suspension. Probably more suited to our needs, really.

 

[Hijinx]

Being a step backwards is exactly why I went back to OEM configuration.

 

[koozy]

there was an scca caliber driver who went through both STR's and Yellows who went through the initial testing and fitment, he noted the step backwards with the STR's to the OE setup on the .net forum. then there were a bunch of people here that stated the STR's were the bomb, lol. different strokes for different folks.

 

[JBO]

Oh great…I've just ordered a set… sigh...

 

[JasonHaven]

On paper they sounded perfect for me, softening things a bit without losing handling, but it turns out (via reviews) the latter is untrue. Guess I'm stuck with OEM.

 

[Hijinx]

there was an scca caliber driver who went through both STR's and Yellows who went through the initial testing and fitment, he noted the step backwards with the STR's to the OE setup on the .net forum. then there were a bunch of people here that stated the STR's were the bomb, lol. different strokes for different folks.

Some people don't like to admit when they've made a mistake.

 

[koozy]

Some people don't like to admit when they've made a mistake.

very true. I've known Joe Schmoe since ~2001 when we both had MR2's. He knows how to drive and has always been very honest with his reviews.

 

[MOFiST]

Did you get an alignment done post install and how did you set it up? I've just ordered a set also.
You also say more suited to your needs likely means mine as well. I don’t count on tracking my car but I still want sharp handing.
This might be enough for me either way I guess I’m committed to trying them now. lol
Hijinx did you note understeer reduction?
Also anyone compare these directly with BC coilovers?

*One other thing just came to mind is if you could try Koni's at the front and leave OEM at rear as per this tuning guide> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/terry.cresswell/handling.html

 

[Hijinx]

Did you get an alignment done post install and how did you set it up? I've just ordered a set also.
You also say more suited to your needs likely means mine as well. I don’t count on tracking my car but I still want sharp handing.
This might be enough for me either way I guess I’m committed to trying them now. lol
Hijinx did you note understeer reduction?
Also anyone compare these directly with BC coilovers?

*One other thing just came to mind is if you could try Koni's at the front and leave OEM at rear as per this tuning guide> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/terry.cresswell/handling.html

My experience was that the front end is "floaty." There was some change to understeer, but due to my mods (Pierce mid and 6-point brace and TB torsion bar brace) it wasn't much. Basically, the car was apprehensive/indecisive about rotating... On turn-in, the car would push the nose, then settle. Even mid-turn, say on a cloverleaf, if played with weight, I got the same result. Same thing at lower speeds if I transferred the weight while applying the brakes; nose pushes, rear would try to rotate a little bit, but settle in. It sounds like it was a hair oversteer biased, or even more neutral, but it wasn't. It was unsettling (with my mods at least). Every input was more like playing with a balancing beam. Not wholly unpredictable, but definitively uninspiring.

In regards to running Koni in the front and OEM in the rear...DON'T. I ran that setup for maybe 2 months. The short of it is the car is VERY unpredictable at high speeds. Yes, it will rotate, but the weight will shift back forward and makes the whole thing disorientating as your feel the front end wobble with input. Again, this is with stock springs and all underbody bracing available to us, so it may be different on a stock car.

If all you plan on doing is putting around town with an otherwise stock car and want a less aggressive ride, these may be for you. But if you're going to mod crazy and stretch the legs on the highway frequently, stick with the stock suspension or upgrade to coilovers. I do NOT consider my car safe on Konis.

 

[Hijinx]

Regarding the link, I was definitely confused at first with the way my car felt, as I thought was only going to help soften the ride a bit without picking up too much roll. The STR.Ts are just way too soft, especially in the front. Odd things happen when you add in underbracing; that energy goes into the four corners. And from my experience, the STR.Ts were just not hard enough to the keep the energy where it needed to be. My set up now with the OEM dampers and springs is solid...what's body roll? My car doesn't know the meaning of it anymore. It's very neutral, which makes it a bit harder to get the rear completely out, even on purpose. Even if I do get it out, it snaps back pretty quickly without fishtailing in the opposite direction.

 

[JBO]

Order cancelled. Sticking with OEM shocks and springs.

 

[MOFiST]

Good feedback thanks Hijinx.
Fortunately JBO and myself were able to cancel our order just in time.
Thanks Joe Schmoe as well for the honest review as well. Saved us time and money.

 

[Joe Schmoe]

Glad you folks have found it helpful. To answer the earlier question, no, I haven't had it aligned yet. I just did the work Thanksgiving. I've had a couple chances to hit up some twisties and while the car doesn't feel like it did, it's still pretty darn good. There's some more initial roll, but once you reach the stiffer portion of the spring it takes a set and feels good there. Very natural and confidence inspiring. Yes, it's still a step backwards because the car doesn't feel like a handling hero anymore. Like going from a 10 to a 9. Still very good, but not the best-FWD-car-you've-ever-driven how-is-this-even-possible anymore. I haven't been able to replicate the instance of sloppy understeer from the initial drive. It's a corner I'm familiar with and with the OEM suspension it would hold the line even when you wouldn't expect to so I don't know what to make of that. There have been a couple other instances of much more mild understeer where I didn't expect it, but not horrible. I'm curious, does anyone know if torque vectoring has a form of learning that is retained in an ECU?

This is my wife's car so this moves the car in the direction it should go for us, but I have to admit that even though she is what I'd call an uninvolved driver she has complained about the extra compliance in the suspension over speed bumps and going in driveways. I'm confused by this but it is what it is. LOL. It's worth the price for what we've gained in comfort. My other car is on Tein coilovers so it's important to have a car with some long distance comfort until I get an EDFC or something.

very true. I've known Joe Schmoe since ~2001 when we both had MR2's. He knows how to drive and has always been very honest with his reviews.

No BS, no hype, no fanboy. Just tryin to help.

Not sure if the shadows make it difficult to see, but there's no reverse rake. I wonder if the people who have rake maybe didn't seat the strut top hat studs into their notches in the bushings? That would add some height to the front.

 

[Hijinx]

Glad you folks have found it helpful. To answer the earlier question, no, I haven't had it aligned yet. I just did the work Thanksgiving. I've had a couple chances to hit up some twisties and while the car doesn't feel like it did, it's still pretty darn good. There's some more initial roll, but once you reach the stiffer portion of the spring it takes a set and feels good there. Very natural and confidence inspiring. Yes, it's still a step backwards because the car doesn't feel like a handling hero anymore. Like going from a 10 to a 9. Still very good, but not the best-FWD-car-you've-ever-driven how-is-this-even-possible anymore. I haven't been able to replicate the instance of sloppy understeer from the initial drive. It's a corner I'm familiar with and with the OEM suspension it would hold the line even when you wouldn't expect to so I don't know what to make of that. There have been a couple other instances of much more mild understeer where I didn't expect it, but not horrible. I'm curious, does anyone know if torque vectoring has a form of learning that is retained in an ECU?

This is my wife's car so this moves the car in the direction it should go for us, but I have to admit that even though she is what I'd call an uninvolved driver she has complained about the extra compliance in the suspension over speed bumps and going in driveways. I'm confused by this but it is what it is. LOL. It's worth the price for what we've gained in comfort. My other car is on Tein coilovers so it's important to have a car with some long distance comfort until I get an EDFC or something.


No BS, no hype, no fanboy. Just tryin to help.

Not sure if the shadows make it difficult to see, but there's no reverse rake. I wonder if the people who have rake maybe didn't seat the strut top hat studs into their notches in the bushings? That would add some height to the front.

I think what she's trying to tell you is that the front end is "floaty." When the Koni STR.T is unloaded then loaded again, the front end is a bit slower to settle in compared to the rear. I've found this diving to make for some scary high speed maneuvering.

 

[Hijinx]

Bumping for [MENTION=2740]commonplatypus[/MENTION]

 

[commonplatypus]

Bumping for [MENTION=2740]commonplatypus[/MENTION]

Yeah I found this thread this morning on my commute actually and was reading over your impressions. Definitely going to be shying away from the Koni Oranges. The yellows sound like a good route or either full blown coilovers at this point. It's a little down the line anyways, so it's not exactly a priority for me.

 

[shouldbeasy]

I'll second what Hijinx is stating - the front end does seem to be floaty when it hits a bump at high speed. Then again, I knew I was going to have to sacrifice something to get a bit more comfortable ride on washboard / gravel.

My back sucks and having a the stock suspension be so stiff over the gravel / crappy roads to my house I just couldn't handle it long term. I'm not out to put down the best time at a track / strip / auto-x and so this trade off was / is acceptable to me. It may not be to others!

Thankfully swapping the shocks in and out is super easy (when compared to my 4x4 projects) and so if I decide to go back to stock for a bit it's quite easy.

As long as everyone is honest in their assessments with themselves and the feedback given by the car, I don't think different opinions should be discounted. Different strokes for different folks. My needs seem to line up with Joe Shmoe's more so than Rodmoe.