Isabella de la fiesta

[Ford ST]

Oil will blowout the oil filler cap on every vehicle on the planet. Like I said air does not get sucked in through the valve cover.


Before we gave a damn about emissions valve covers had breathers on them to let the pressure out.

With all the work you have put into this I would suggest putting back the stock air box and connecting the EVAP lines 100% OEM stock. Zero modifications clear codes and see what happens.

This would also have no effect on your clutch. The clutch does not operate off the brake master cylinder it has its own it just shares fluid from the reservoir nothing more. The clutch does not use any vacuum.

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[Rocketst]

Question about the engine, not sure if it has been asked already- did Mountune also supply you with blueprint sheet with dimensions, weights etc?

They did not supply me with a blueprint sheet.

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[Rocketst]

Sorry if I'm frustrating you guys. I'm literally asking off the wall questions in hopes that it'll lead to an answer because I've checked most of the logical answers. But it does say in the repair manual from haynes that a bad oil cap o-ring, bad oil indicator o-ring or a faulty pcv system will lead to the trouble code I have regardless of whether or not air is supposed to go into the valve cover or not. I don't think it's really air that traversing the hoses anyways I think it's mostly just residual oil.

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[Ford ST]

Your evap lines are the number one reason for that code on this car. Somebody just went through it that's why I keep telling you put your air box back to stock. Put your evap lines back to stock hook it up like it was before it was ever touched in the first-place like a brand new car. Clear codes and go from there.
I don't know everything but I been working on cars for 16 years. I have multiple pieces of paper I can put on the wall that says I actually know a little bit. I don't give a darn what a Haynes manual says.

Not trying to be rude but it's extremely frustratingly trying to help somebody and they just totally ignore it.
Ask yourself why there's only a few people replying to this thread?

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[TyphoonFiST]

Ill put money on it that the Idle needs to be changed to stop the engine from Dying due to the different cams.

 

[Rocketst]

Your evap lines are the number one reason for that code on this car. Somebody just went through it that's why I keep telling you put your air box back to stock. Put your evap lines back to stock hook it up like it was before it was ever touched in the first-place like a brand new car. Clear codes and go from there.
I don't know everything but I been working on cars for 16 years. I have multiple pieces of paper I can put on the wall that says I actually know a little bit. I don't give a darn what a Haynes manual says.

Not trying to be rude but it's extremely frustratingly trying to help somebody and they just totally ignore it.
Ask yourself why there's only a few people replying to this thread?

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I would do that man but I got rid of my stock airbox almost 2 years ago. Never had an issue with this until now. If you've read this thread, there is almost nothing in the engine bay I didn't touch. I will reach out to the forums to buy a stock airbox,crossover and everything else. I understand your frustrations, the only reason I haven't done it was 1 I didn't have this problem for 2 years while I had the new intake on and 2 I didn't want to have to buy it back.

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[Ford ST]

That's why I asked you about your evap lines and stuff so we can eliminate that. If you have been running this air box with the exact same setup for 2 years and no codes then okay eliminated
Who is your tuner? and would they be willing to help you diagnose this? Obviously it's a certain condition that triggers this code.

I would research the particular code that you have not just on our platform because it's so small, but other platforms and see what some of the solutions are.

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[Ford ST]

Ill put money on it that the Idle needs to be changed to stop the engine from Dying due to the different cams.

Yes for sure. 100% agree.

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[Rocketst]

That's why I asked you about your evap lines and stuff so we can eliminate that. If you have been running this air box with the exact same setup for 2 years and no codes then okay eliminated
Who is your tuner? and would they be willing to help you diagnose this? Obviously it's a certain condition that triggers this code.

I would research the particular code that you have not just on our platform because it's so small, but other platforms and see what some of the solutions are.

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I just did a simple Google search about the evap system and am starting to see what you were saying. I have a few more things I need to check when I get home. I think my issue could still be from the catastrophic engine failure I had. Is it possible that when the engine blew it messed up the check valve in the Cobb evap system? I am almost certain the system I have converted the 2017 evap system to the 2015 system when I installed this intake. My tuner is stratified and I don't see why not but they are slow to respond. I had reached out to them for opinions on my problem a few days ago but haven't gotten a response yet.

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[Rocketst]

Yes for sure. 100% agree.

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I also figured this which is why I mentioned it seems like the idle needs to be higher but I want to make sure I rule everything mechanical out first. I am mechanically savvy but I made a ton of mistakes putting this car back together. I could see me making another mistake that I may have overlooked. I'm trying to think about this logically. So how would me having decreased vacuum due to larger cams create a condition where the computer thinks there is a leak.... Are the sensors measuring pressure instead of volume? If so I can see why the computer would think there's a problem. The heads are ported, so is my exhaust manifold. It's possible there's a pressure difference from the stock head to the head I have now. If I'm totally wrong shoot me down but this is how I am rationalizing your responses.

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[Ford ST]

You are correct to be concerned about the PVC system that can cause that code.
I assume p2282.
Seems to be a common issue with EcoBoost motors. I would research the other forms to death on that code.

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[Rocketst]

I'm also gonna try to adjust my bov. I have the turbosmart mechanical one and I remember when I first got it it ran fine but I know the instructions said to back it off til it stalls then tighten to set it. Given that the car will stall if it's set improperly and it's pretty easy to get to I'll add it to my list today to reset it.

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[Ford ST]

Check this short post out if you haven't already.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=74193&share_type=t&link_source=app

P2282 engine code

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[Rocketst]

You are correct to be concerned about the PVC system that can cause that code.
I assume p2282.
Seems to be a common issue with EcoBoost motors. I would research the other forms to death on that code.

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Will do. I'll start seeing what others problems have been and to clarify yes this is the code I'm getting.

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[MikelSS]

Hey Rocketst, have you figured out your oil leak?

I had no CEL, but I did have a leak on my 2011 Fiesta which I thought was because of the valve cover gasket (the leak came from the back of the engine, left side), but it ended up being the o-ring of the Variable Valve Timing Solenoid / Actuator. I had no codes though.

I replaced the gasket and removed the cover three times before finding about the VVT Solenoid.

 

[Rocketst]

Hey Rocketst, have you figured out your oil leak?

I had no CEL, but I did have a leak on my 2011 Fiesta which I thought was because of the valve cover gasket (the leak came from the back of the engine, left side), but it ended up being the o-ring of the Variable Valve Timing Solenoid / Actuator. I had no codes though.

I replaced the gasket and removed the cover three times before finding about the VVT Solenoid.

Solenoids are brand new so I doubt it. I didn't put sealant on the hpfp mount when I first installed it which contributed heavily to the leak, also the cam timer on the intake side needs it as well. I've heard once you get oil on the sealed part of the valve cover gasket it has to be replaced that's why I'm thinking the majority is from there. I need the car more reliable first by fixing the air. After that I'll worry about the oil.

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[Rocketst]

Here is a video. View attachment VID_20200303_115710579.mp4

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Edit: I don't think anyone can download that... Anyways I see a normal 14.41-14.7 afr at idle when I press on the gas afr goes up as it should. As soon as I let off however it goes up to over 17 at idle bogs down then corrects.

 

[Rocketst]

Curious... So on my way home I swapped out the stratified tune for the tune I got from Jason at dizzy, the occasion of dying at a light have gone from 2 in 3 stops to 1 in 10. Also vehicle idles better and codes haven't showed up again.... I got the tune by dizzy as a promo when my engine exploded to start the new engine. It seems Jason dialed it in better then stratified on the first attempt. I will admit though, the one by stratified is way faster...

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[Ford ST]

Jason was probably more conservative, and it will continue to get better after many tune revisions. Maybe stick with Jason and start doing your tune logs. Everyone seems to like him more..

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[MRX430]

What happened with Mountune?