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Negative corrections on pre-installed maps that come with AP, youre thoughts?

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#21
Certainly possible. Sounds like the correction is pretty sparse though. Do you feel like your exhaust is particularly crackly when it happens? Whenever I crackle real loud my corrections are hella high, but only in that moment. On my crackle tune, it pops quite loud right at 3500rpm, and that’s always where the correction is. Might just be the knock sensor picking it up, thinking it’s knock.

Or I could be way wrong, just a deductive guess.
 


PunkST

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#22
Its worth a shot. At least to eliminate them as a possibility. My oe coils crapped out at 58k and had a hard time diagnosing issues for another 10-20k. Id have ignition issues only when wet outside.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #23
Certainly possible. Sounds like the correction is pretty sparse though. Do you feel like your exhaust is particularly crackly when it happens? Whenever I crackle real loud my corrections are hella high, but only in that moment. On my crackle tune, it pops quite loud right at 3500rpm, and that’s always where the correction is. Might just be the knock sensor picking it up, thinking it’s knock.

Or I could be way wrong, just a deductive guess.

My exhaust gurgles all the time, especially when cold, however I've never noticed negative corrections when it does go " bang " out the back end. I'm starting to think I'm all good for the most part. I dont feel like the car bogs down or anything like that, if anything it pulls harder in the higher gears then ever and actually pops when I shift from 3rd to 4th if I hammer it. But no, never any corrections when she goes pop or bang, its just at the most random of times.

I'm gonns run it till I get my FMIC and stratified tune installed ( about a week hopefully ) and see what the difference is. Its highly possible COBB programs it to aggressively reduce timing as stratified mentions they do at the first sign of knock.

I'm also thinking it may be false knock, ive read if something is loose on the car the knocm sensors may register false knock..... I'll be 100% honest, I was a monster with that manifold heat shield when I did the down pipe and im sure the mechanics had a hell of a time putting it back on ( i bent the sh** out of it in rage) and it does rattle at about 2k rpm briefly, im wondering if it also rattles at higher rpms but I just can't hear it cause my car is obnoxiously loud.


This is why I love cars, did I break it? Or is it just doing its thang who knows? She's also old, thats a factor as well. God love her though.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #24
Its worth a shot. At least to eliminate them as a possibility. My oe coils crapped out at 58k and had a hard time diagnosing issues for another 10-20k. Id have ignition issues only when wet outside.

Hmmmmm, I did notice a white substance, almost looked like corrosion on metal..... but on the rubber of the coil pack. I have a hard time articulating, what I mean is it looks like a white powder has formed where the coil pack seals with the spark plug ( at the base along the rime ) idk if that's normal or not though
 


OP
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Calgary, AB, Canada
Thread Starter #25
Certainly possible. Sounds like the correction is pretty sparse though. Do you feel like your exhaust is particularly crackly when it happens? Whenever I crackle real loud my corrections are hella high, but only in that moment. On my crackle tune, it pops quite loud right at 3500rpm, and that’s always where the correction is. Might just be the knock sensor picking it up, thinking it’s knock.

Or I could be way wrong, just a deductive guess.

My bad bit of a tangent I went on, im starting to think you are right they are very sparse and happen randomly so im starting to think its false knock somewhere. I just put new hangers on my exhaust last week from whoosh so I know its not that ( shes rock solid now )
 


PunkST

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#26
Hmmmmm, I did notice a white substance, almost looked like corrosion on metal..... but on the rubber of the coil pack. I have a hard time articulating, what I mean is it looks like a white powder has formed where the coil pack seals with the spark plug ( at the base along the rime ) idk if that's normal or not though
Thats dried up minerals from moisture. Or salt getting in there. Ngk replacements are 25 dollars US on rockauto.com. its what im running currently.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #27
Thats dried up minerals from moisture. Or salt getting in there. Ngk replacements are 25 dollars US on rockauto.com. its what im running currently.
So im gonna assume that isn't exactly ideal correct? This is only my second car and first turbo vehicle, shes the first car I've ever really worked on so its a trial and error process
 


PunkST

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#28
Not very ideal, no. And its peace of mind to eliminate a possible source
 


OP
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Thread Starter #29
Not very ideal, no. And its peace of mind to eliminate a possible source

Fair enough, i shall add it to the list. Has anyone had any problems with the stock BOV / running a custom tune? I know the stock one is just rubber and a spring where as aftermarket ones are pistons and made of solid metal. I was just curious if pushing the extra 2lbs of boost has caused anyone's BOV to stick open when they shouldn't or even cause a straight up failure? I would imagine not?
 


OP
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Thread Starter #31
True quality of your fuel is likely playing a big role.
So I've read that tunes need time to settle into youre car and for youre fuel trims to adjust properly( 3-4 days ), im honestly starting to think the fact i only have like 50km on my tune between like trips is the reason. Went for a decent drive last night OAR is pinned at -1.00 which I've read is good. I JUST recieved my flash tunr from stratified and it says I shouldn't see negative corrections of more then 3°, so if I apply that logic to my cobb tune that came with the accesport then in gonna chaulk it up to im good and just let the cwr adjust
 


OP
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Thread Starter #32
True quality of your fuel is likely playing a big role.
So I've been reading, apparently I'm using gas with 0 ethanol in it, ive read mixed reviews but strat recommends fuel with e10 to as all maps are tuned with the e10 variable in mind. They basically say it allows for more aggressive ignition and less prone to knock. Gonna see if i can't find a station that sells 91 with 10% ethanol in it see if it makes a difference. Im mostly just trying to learn at this point as I dont think anything particularly wrong
 


PunkST

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#33
That explains the no corrections on 93 for me. I cant find a 91 e10 station anywhere.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #34
That explains the no corrections on 93 for me. I cant find a 91 e10 station anywhere.
Yeah i read that if you are experiencing knocm it boils down to two things, either youre tune is too aggressive ( which they recommend calling them about to fix it ) or youre fuel quality is less then optimal.it says if you experiancw random negative corrections don't be too concerned, however if you still can't figure out the problem, find a little ethanol and mix it into the tank and it should fix youre corrections
 


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