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P219A Need Help Getting Rid Of this CEL Please Please

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Escondido, CA, USA
#1
I've had this CEL forever, I honestly forgot when it was first an issue but I've tried almost everything to fix it but it keeps coming up. Anyone else had the same issue??
 


OP
I
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Thread Starter #3
I have a cat less dp from whoosh, mishimoto intake, e30 tune from dizzy, just deleted resonator and muffler. I think that's all I've really done.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#4
Do you have the adapter for the Catless system for the downstream O2? Have you replaced the upstream O2 sensor? Could also be a Faulty evaporative emission purge valve too*
 


nixfist

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#5
I’m having the same issue too and I have basically the same mods as you. I’m also only hitting 24.5 and maybe 25psi in 4th gear. Not really sure what’s causing it. I replaced my downpipe gasket, made sure the turbo and downpipe were flush. The bolts are torqued. And of course retightened down my intake clamps. I also made sure my symposer delete is sealed and tight. But one thing i noticed recently was my p1450 just popped up too... I’m wondering and hoping if I replaced the purge valve assembly if it will get rid of both codes.
 


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Location
Germantown
#6
I’m having the same issue too and I have basically the same mods as you. I’m also only hitting 24.5 and maybe 25psi in 4th gear. Not really sure what’s causing it. I replaced my downpipe gasket, made sure the turbo and downpipe were flush. The bolts are torqued. And of course retightened down my intake clamps. I also made sure my symposer delete is sealed and tight. But one thing i noticed recently was my p1450 just popped up too... I’m wondering and hoping if I replaced the purge valve assembly if it will get rid of both codes.
I have this issue. Replaced the PCV. P1450 disappeared but p219a is still there lurking (doesn't have a check engine light but code could still be read) kinda annoying. It might be my cat inside the downpipe is dying.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #7
I have this issue. Replaced the PCV. P1450 disappeared but p219a is still there lurking (doesn't have a check engine light but code could still be read) kinda annoying. It might be my cat inside the downpipe is dying.
I have the exact same issue. No cel but the code is still being read.
 


Dpro

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#8
There was a thread about this back in 2015 if you search you will find it. A few found it was possibly ambient temp related.

I got it on a previous tune with my s280 and Mountune Sportcat downpipe. After going to Tune+ I have not seen it since. So it also could be tune related for people who have tunes.

One might want to consult their tuner as they should be guru’s on this kinda of stuff if they are worth a damn as a tuner IMO.

Below is a list of official possible causes as this is not just a code that pops on our Fords only.
There are many Mustang owners and Lightening owners that have seen it as well.

P219A FORD Possible Causes What does this mean? Leaking or contaminated fuel injectors Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel Leaking evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve Exhaust or intake air system leaks Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is leaking or the valve is stuck open Ignition system Incorrectly seated engine oil dipstick, tube or oil fill cap

Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p219a_ford.html


P.S. for those that do not know it has also been reported in the past here that if top off your gas tank it will flood your evap canister which can also throw this code.
 


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Location
Germantown
#9
There was a thread about this back in 2015 if you search you will find it. A few found it was possibly ambient temp related.

I got it on a previous tune with my s280 and Mountune Sportcat downpipe. After going to Tune+ I have not seen it since. So it also could be tune related for people who have tunes.

One might want to consult their tuner as they should be guru’s on this kinda of stuff if they are worth a damn as a tuner IMO.

Below is a list of official possible causes as this is not just a code that pops on our Fords only.
There are many Mustang owners and Lightening owners that have seen it as well.

P219A FORD Possible Causes What does this mean? Leaking or contaminated fuel injectors Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel Leaking evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve Exhaust or intake air system leaks Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is leaking or the valve is stuck open Ignition system Incorrectly seated engine oil dipstick, tube or oil fill cap

Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p219a_ford.html


P.S. for those that do not know it has also been reported in the past here that if top off your gas tank it will flood your evap canister which can also throw this code.
I'm currently on Tune+ and talked to Adam and he said there's nothing he can do about it. The light comes on then off after 100 miles of driving then doesn't show up for like another 500 miles. I'm pretty sure the cat inside my downpipe is toast so that's why it's giving me a code.
 


Dpro

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#10
I'm currently on Tune+ and talked to Adam and he said there's nothing he can do about it. The light comes on then off after 100 miles of driving then doesn't show up for like another 500 miles. I'm pretty sure the cat inside my downpipe is toast so that's why it's giving me a code.
Interesting, how many miles are on the cat. I do know that if you flood your evap canister it sometimes creates permanent damage to it and it can need replacing. I have seen that happen on other cars who were failing smog evap tests. I would think if your cat was not working you would be popping a cylinder bank 1 code not hot enough to activate the catalyst. That is a really common code on aftermarket catted downpipes and non catted pipes with tunes.
 


Messages
153
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77
Location
Germantown
#11
Interesting, how many miles are on the cat. I do know that if you flood your evap canister it sometimes creates permanent damage to it and it can need replacing. I have seen that happen on other cars who were failing smog evap tests. I would think if your cat was not working you would be popping a cylinder bank 1 code not hot enough to activate the catalyst. That is a really common code on aftermarket catted downpipes and non catted pipes with tunes.
I'd say around maybe 40k miles? Half of those miles was running a crackle and pop tune which I stopped using. The EVAP canister is that box looking thing right?
 


Dpro

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#12
I'd say around maybe 40k miles? Half of those miles was running a crackle and pop tune which I stopped using. The EVAP canister is that box looking thing right?
Well Crackle and pop tunes are known cat killers. yes the evap canister is that box looking thing hanging off the bottom of our car below the spare tire well. You can also crack it. lol its why I have a no longer available No Pistons evap canister shield.
 


Messages
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146
Location
Omaha, NE, USA
#13
I too have been struggling with this pesky issue. Numbers aren’t concerning in the least on the AP, but the code comes and goes often. So far I’ve:
1. Replaced EVAP purge line
2. Ran an intake valve and injector cleaner (I needed to do this anyway since I bought the car at 63xxx mi).
3. Replaced PCV Oil Separator (this may have fixed it on my end, I’ll find out this week, I have a thread on here where I pulled the throttle body and starter this weekend to get the stupid thing out).
 


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83
Location
Shelbyville, TN, USA
#14
Been getting this code since I installed my catless downpipe and resonator delete.
2019 model

whoosh catless DP
cpe CAI
cpe nexus 3" catback exhaust w/resonator delete
NGK Iridium xi spark plugs 0.026" gap
whoosh FMIC

Still have the upstream O2 sensor, do not have the downstream (Bung is closed off for the downstream) jason from dizzy tuning turned off the code from the downstream sensor but then I started to get P219A and P04DB..... at first they are just stored codes then it turns into a CEL. Jason has told me that my datalog looked great and didn't need a revision but there is obviously something not right.


idle is rough at start, goes up to 1500 rpm, then will drop a couple hundred, then go back up a couple hundred and after 5 minutes (70 degreeF weather) will stabilize at normal idle.
 


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