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Possible Spark Plug Issue Now?

TyphoonFiST

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#21
Maybe he is losing Boost across the intercooler core? Or its the colder air in the winter even though its more dense.

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OP
aruth55
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Thread Starter #22
Do you have a check valve on the evap line?
I’ll be honest I’m not sure what that is, so I’m not sure, I might know, just not that name but school me please


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aruth55
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Thread Starter #23
Maybe he is losing Boost across the intercooler core? Or its the colder air in the winter even though its more dense.

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I considered that, would I see signs of damage on the intercooler? We will have the bumper off to do the couplings when they come in. Still no signs of turbo failure which would be an easy answer. I’ve replaced pretty much everything now but the intake and couplings that could be leaking... test revealed no exhaust leaks idek.



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TyphoonFiST

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#24
If you are going to have the bumper off...and if you have a boost leak tester it would give you the opportunity to use a soapy water solution on all joints and possible leak points. IMO.

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aruth55
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Thread Starter #25
If you are going to have the bumper off...and if you have a boost leak tester it would give you the opportunity to use a soapy water solution on all joints and possible leak points. IMO.

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No boost leak tester but we can figure out some kind of smoke lol. I guess the only information I can offer is the AFR is slightly rich at idle once warm and then corrects to 14.7 down from 14.2 which seems pretty normal. Car is rich under boost hitting sometimes 10.5-10.88 AFR even under light boost low 11’s at times. When car cold starts it’s first at mid 15’s AFR then calms down to 14’s and stays there. All seems like symptoms of a boost leak after the sensors. Also during spool I believe I can hear a leak almost like a high pitch tea kettle.


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TyphoonFiST

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#26
The best thing about a tester is it pressurizes the system to help show leaks. But you'd also have to have an Air source/ compressor to supply the tester.

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aruth55
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Thread Starter #27
The best thing about a tester is it pressurizes the system to help show leaks. But you'd also have to have an Air source/ compressor to supply the tester.

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We do have an air compressor so I could pick up a tester if I end up needing it after the couplings. Do we have an accessport monitor that shows AFR adjustment? Like AFR learning in subarus? Also could you briefly school me on why it’s okay for our cars to misfire?


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TyphoonFiST

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#28
We do have an air compressor so I could pick up a tester if I end up needing it after the couplings. Do we have an accessport monitor that shows AFR adjustment? Like AFR learning in subarus? Also could you briefly school me on why it’s okay for our cars to misfire?


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Every car will misfire some* it just depends on how the manufacturer has setup up the threshold for the misfire counter to trip the Check engine light*

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aruth55
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Thread Starter #29
Okay so plugs are in. Couplings and clamps arrive tomorrow, we will install those and see where we are at with a boost leak test. Nothing has gotten worse, car still builds yknow 22-23.5psi. So still 3 psi or so off. I’d assume if we had a turbo issue she would’ve blown by now after 4k miles of boosting it. We shall see. Will keep you updated tomorrow. I have videos of spool if you guys would like to hear, yeah it’s high pitched but I believe that’s because it’s a small frame turbo and I have no intake box. How do hybrids normally sound?


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aruth55
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Thread Starter #30
Couplings delayed until tomorrow due to shipping reasons.
You know what’s odd is when the car is warmed up (4 bars) but coolant is colder for ex (130-160degrees) car makes full boost. Then back to 23.5 or so after it’s warmer. Could be something expanding and contracting?
image-2021-02-10-22:21:36-797.jpg


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M-Sport fan

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#31
I personally would not want to be going WOT/full boost until the coolant is at least 180*F, and the oil is the same or even over that temp. [wink]

And yes, I know that can be very difficult to ever get to when stuck in 10*F (or BELOW that, BRRR!) ambient temps, especially with an aftermarket radiator, aftermarket oil cooler, and a 180* thermostat (I don't know if you have any of those or not [dunno]).
 


TyphoonFiST

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#32
I personally would not want to be going WOT/full boost until the coolant is at least 180*F, and the oil is the same or even over that temp. [wink]

And yes, I know that can be very difficult to ever get to when stuck in 10*F (or BELOW that, BRRR!) ambient temps, especially with an aftermarket radiator, aftermarket oil cooler, and a 180* thermostat (I don't know if you have any of those or not [dunno]).
Well explain why alot of those people have those mods are trying to bring Temps. Down ? Seems sordove counter productive then* [emoji848]. Plus the Air is always more dense when colder....am I correct? I'm not saying start up....pull out of the garage and bury the needle and do an Italian Tune up Enzo style either.

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aruth55
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Thread Starter #33
Alright y’all I have some updates. I’m certainly going to be proceeding with a leak test, as I watch my idle go from 900 rpm to around 1100rpm and vacuum go from -9’s where it should be to -10.5 as the RPM rises, pretty much confirming a vacuum leak of some sort in my knowledge. Where? God knows.


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aruth55
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Thread Starter #34
Tonight we replaced the tial MVS valve seat with a new one as well as changed the last vacuum line from the turbo to boost controller that was not the silicon line from stratified and was previously oem to the silicon line. We actually hit boost, and consistently hit boost, 24.9psi peak to be exact. We still seem to have the idle rpm issue, so I’m going to continue forward still with the leak test, but I will take this small victory... if it lasts.


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aruth55
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Thread Starter #35
Okay so boost started oscillating again so like sometimes I’ll hit peak and other times no. We had to beat in the new valve seat as well last night because it wouldn’t go in nicely which leads me to believe the wastegate it self is clapped, especially because sometimes the dump pipe sounds different than other times. I don’t think there’s a leak, really don’t. I’ve replaced every vacuum line possible as well as all my intercooler piping during this process and also my GFB dv+. Only thing that’s different from oem at this point or isn’t brand new is the USED wastegate and used turbo, but turbo is showing no signs of failure whatsoever! Could the wastegate leaking though mess with my idle like that? New one is on the way though. Silver, if you were wondering ;)


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Erick_V

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#36
When I installed the 2J intake on my car a while ago with the line they provided the idle would be high. It wasn't until I added the check valve on the intake line (the nipple on the induction hose) that the idle went back to normal. I think one comes with the P144C fix that whoosh has. I'm not sure if the car comes with one already but I had broken the check valve and it did cause my idle to jump around till I found the leak and taped over it for the time being. In my case there was an audible hiss. It's the little white piece that's between the 2 metal clamps. Here's the link.

https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopif...ta-st-evap-purge-p144c-check-engine-light-fix
 


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aruth55
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Thread Starter #37
Well I think we’ve been defeated by sour skittles’s junk. We replaced really everything, new GFB, new external Tial wastegate, new vacuum lines from boost controller, all new clamps on the intercooler piping and saw no improvements. Our leak test revealed no exhaust leaks when we got that done awhile ago either. Turbo isn’t smoking, but it’s gotta be that it’s on its way out. So my next step is going to be welding the stock turbo hot side shut, making it external and having a cool ass stock turbo set up for the meantime! A shame, one of my coolant hoses also split and was leaking which thank god we noticed before all my coolant drained out of the reservoir and blew the motor!


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M-Sport fan

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#38
Does anyone on here still have a fully functioning/boosting, somewhat reliable, C39 anymore, or did they ALL 'shit the bed'??
 


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aruth55
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Thread Starter #39
Does anyone on here still have a fully functioning/boosting, somewhat reliable, C39 anymore, or did they ALL 'shit the bed'??
I know of one. I’ll post his @ on Instagram after work if you’d like. His is internal.


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