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Rear wheel stud removal question

FiSTerMr

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#1
So I noticed one of the wheel studs on the rear has a flat spot on some of the threads, and want to replace it before it becomes a problem.

For anyone who did them, was there enough clearance between the hub and dust shield to replace them WITHOUT having to remove the hub?

The front looks easy, the back though, not as much.

I know pressing them in and out is prebably better (not a big fan of hammering on the hub and stressing bearings), but I've done the hammer out method plenty of times with no issue.

TIA
 


jeffreylyon

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You won't have to remove the hub. You may have to remove the knuckle. It's 4 bolts and a sensor - no big deal. Tap the old stud out with a lead hammer. PM me if you like a couple for the cost of shipping as I replaced all of the studs on my FiST and kept the stock ones.
 


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Honestly, the hub removal is so easy (4 bolts accessibles from the back of the hub assembly, you only need an extension with your ratchet) that I wouldn't mess with trying to remove and install on car. Plus, installing will be easier on a workbench.
 


OP
FiSTerMr

FiSTerMr

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Thread Starter #5
Honestly, the hub removal is so easy (4 bolts accessibles from the back of the hub assembly, you only need an extension with your ratchet) that I wouldn't mess with trying to remove and install on car. Plus, installing will be easier on a workbench.
This is a good point actually. For some reason I was thinking it was like the front with the cv shaft. Back should be easy enough. This way I can bang it out with something bracing the hub face against the back, like a deep socket, so as not to upset the bearings.
 


OP
FiSTerMr

FiSTerMr

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Thread Starter #6
Why not try a thread chaser first?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
It threads fine, but looks weakened with the threading lower in that spot. Id rather replace it.
 


OP
FiSTerMr

FiSTerMr

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Thread Starter #7
You won't have to remove the hub. You may have to remove the knuckle. It's 4 bolts and a sensor - no big deal. Tap the old stud out with a lead hammer. PM me if you like a couple for the cost of shipping as I replaced all of the studs on my FiST and kept the stock ones.
Oh man, I just ordered one on ebay earlier. Thanks for the offer though!
 


OP
FiSTerMr

FiSTerMr

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Thread Starter #8
So, reading more advice online, hammering out a stud without bracing the flange face at least, could possibly damage the bearing. I have always thought that the case, but never had an issue personally.

Nonetheless, I will be removing the hub/knuckle, so I will be able to place something behind it to hammer it out safely.

Another brilliant option is to rent a ball joint separator or tie rod separator from advance auto, to use as a press. As there is no room behind it, I will have to remove hubb/knuckle anyway. Either way, I'm covered.

Thanks for the help guys!
 


D1JL

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#9
Studs are easy to remove.
I have done it on all four hubs.
You do NOT have to remove the hub from the car.
I replaced mine with ARP studs that are longer than OEM.
 


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FiSTerMr

FiSTerMr

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Thread Starter #10
Studs are easy to remove.
I have done it on all four hubs.
You do NOT have to remove the hub from the car.
I replaced mine with ARP studs that are longer than OEM.
You hammered them out I assume?
 


D1JL

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You hammered them out I assume?

Yes, but first I put an old lug nut part way on.
This prevents damage to the stud and also prevents the stud from flying out the back so I don't have to retrieve it.
I also use a drift so I don't miss and damage something else.
 


OP
FiSTerMr

FiSTerMr

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Yes, but first I put an old lug nut part way on.
This prevents damage to the stud and also prevents the stud from flying out the back so I don't have to retrieve it.
I also use a drift so I don't miss and damage something else.
I've done that on older hoopties a bunch of times. And good to know that there's enough room to get the stud out without removing anything, but I'm thinking about bracing the hub flange before using a hammer... or better yet, pressing it out. Looks easy enough.
 


D1JL

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#13
A Honda ball joint tool works VERY good for this and you still don't need tom remove the hubs.

Specialty Products Company 40920 Ball Joint Press Set For Honda.

There are about $100.00, but you may be able to rent/barrow one from a local auto parts store.
 


OP
FiSTerMr

FiSTerMr

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Thread Starter #14
A Honda ball joint tool works VERY good for this and you still don't need tom remove the hubs.

Specialty Products Company 40920 Ball Joint Press Set For Honda.

There are about $100.00, but you may be able to rent/barrow one from a local auto parts store.
Cool, thanks! Yep, gonna check out what advance auto has for loaner tools.
You think there's enough room on the rears, that dust shield is awfully close... I guess I can bend it out of the way enough to get the tool on.
 


D1JL

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Cool, thanks! Yep, gonna check out what advance auto has for loaner tools.
You think there's enough room on the rears, that dust shield is awfully close... I guess I can bend it out of the way enough to get the tool on.


I don't have the dust shields on my car but I an sure you can make it work.
Look at that tool, you will see.
 


D1JL

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#16
Additionally, the dust shields too can be removed without removing the hubs.
 


OP
FiSTerMr

FiSTerMr

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Thread Starter #17
I don't have the dust shields on my car but I an sure you can make it work.
Look at that tool, you will see.
I will definitely try that tool. I think advance has it. Originally, I was thinking of something like this....
 


OP
FiSTerMr

FiSTerMr

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Thread Starter #18
Additionally, the dust shields too can be removed without removing the hubs.
Haha, now were talking! If that's the case, I will go that route for sure.

Honestly, when I noticed the stud issue, I didn't have much time to get into it. When I get home on Saturday, I will have some fun
 




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