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Skold's FiST Build Thread: Best Bang For Buck Mods for $1100??

TyphoonFiST

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#81
This is probably the toughest one for me. I've read about it and heard it suggested but that would eat up all of the rest of my funds. I'd planned on adding foam tape as others have suggested to shore up the stock one and hope it was good enough. Then again, I am in Houston, TX area so it is hot and humid much of the year.

If I shore up the stock radiator and go with other mods confirmed above and tune, what would be the indication that my radiator is insufficient? Then if it appears to be a problem point, I'll cave in and upgrade. That is kind of the direction I'm leaning.
You live Where ......Texas? What temps do you see again?
 


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jeff

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#82
Pardon me if I missed any details.

You don't need a radiator if you're not tracking the car. Here in GA it's 100% humidity most of the summer and often over 100 degrees. I beat my car and never have temp issues ever.

Res delete is a waste, the difference is very small and not worth the $$$ imho, save up for exhaust instead.

Get the short shift adapter and the FMIC.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #83
Pardon me if I missed any details.

You don't need a radiator if you're not tracking the car. Here in GA it's 100% humidity most of the summer and often over 100 degrees. I beat my car and never have temp issues ever.

Res delete is a waste, the difference is very small and not worth the $$$ imho, save up for exhaust instead.

Get the short shift adapter and the FMIC.
Not tracking the car and GA summers are about the same as we get. I already have a short shift adapter (just not installed yet) and FMIC is in the works.

Regarding the stock radiator though, what would be the sign or signs that my radiator isn't cutting it after my mods and tune?

Thanks!
 


OP
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Thread Starter #84
Basically upper 90s with 100% humidity much of the year and low 100's during summer heat waves.
 


dhminer

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#85
Not tracking the car and GA summers are about the same as we get. I already have a short shift adapter (just not installed yet) and FMIC is in the works.

Regarding the stock radiator though, what would be the sign or signs that my radiator isn't cutting it after my mods and tune?

Thanks!
I had 0 issues with my radiator living in SC. Car is a 2016. In 75k miles I overheated once climbing a mountain in NC and turned out to be due to low coolant level, not radiator failure. That said, I have a mountune radiator which keeps temp lower for sure and great peace of mind.
 


jeff

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#86
Not tracking the car and GA summers are about the same as we get. I already have a short shift adapter (just not installed yet) and FMIC is in the works.

Regarding the stock radiator though, what would be the sign or signs that my radiator isn't cutting it after my mods and tune?

Thanks!
Keep an eye on your temps. Once you get your Accessport installed you'll want to set coolant temp as one of the gauges on displayed, it's much better than the miniscule temp bar on the dash cluster. Keep an eye on temps, as long as they don't go past around 200 you're good. A bit above 200 on the interstate doing 80mph is acceptable. If it hops to 210 or 220 you're in the trouble range.

In all my years and miles with my car I've never seen much past 200 and that's in the 100 degree weather with the A/C on, with a hybrid turbo.

Side note but I also recommend monitoring oil temp on your Accessport. You get up to 6 gauge options so you definitely want boost pressure, coolant temp and oil temp. Don't engage the turbo too much until oil temp reaches 150 degrees. That takes about 5 minutes. That allows warm oil to lubricate the turbo so you aren't spinning it with cold oil which can ruin it. Sort of like you don't sprint first thing out of bed in the morning, you take a few minutes to get the joints ready for action.
 


Erick_V

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#87
I don't disagree with what anyone is saying about the radiator at all, I'm happy with my Mountune unit and I'll always recommend it. However, I'm 3 hours down the road from him (San Antonio) and street driving I never got over 210 and that's with sitting in stop and go traffic at 100+ degrees. We even have some decent hills and elevation here but nothing like you CA guys. Houston is super flat, it's biggest "mountains" are the overpasses unless you drive a couple hours out of town. OP isn't building a HS/HPDE or even a canyon car he just wants to throw on a couple mods to make it a little more fun, radiator is easy to do down the road if he wants more. He could likely get away with the 180 degree thermostat and a 70/30 mix for street driving. Unpopular opinion I know. But I can't remember a time, even in the summer where I was ripping around and got over 220 on the street.

With that last $300 you have get the control arm bolts (they are 1 time use stretch bolts), catch can, trans fluid and a panel filter. You're in Houston so I know you have access to E85, if you do decide to tune get E30/93 flash tunes and you'll be pretty happy.
 


ronmcdon

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#88
Your going to Chuckwalla this weekend? I was supposed to be leaving for Buttonwillow tomorrow afternoon, but some plans fell thru. I might be able to re-direct to Chuckwalla tho.
will be there this Sun. wish I could take Sat off too, but too much work and covid has me worried staying in a hotel. Will try to hit up buttonwillow maybe after march after getting suspension done.
 


ronmcdon

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#89
Keep an eye on your temps. Once you get your Accessport installed you'll want to set coolant temp as one of the gauges on displayed, it's much better than the miniscule temp bar on the dash cluster. Keep an eye on temps, as long as they don't go past around 200 you're good. A bit above 200 on the interstate doing 80mph is acceptable. If it hops to 210 or 220 you're in the trouble range.

In all my years and miles with my car I've never seen much past 200 and that's in the 100 degree weather with the A/C on, with a hybrid turbo.

Side note but I also recommend monitoring oil temp on your Accessport. You get up to 6 gauge options so you definitely want boost pressure, coolant temp and oil temp. Don't engage the turbo too much until oil temp reaches 150 degrees. That takes about 5 minutes. That allows warm oil to lubricate the turbo so you aren't spinning it with cold oil which can ruin it. Sort of like you don't sprint first thing out of bed in the morning, you take a few minutes to get the joints ready for action.
I think that's a great compromise. At least use the AP for monitoring oil temps and go on from there. I got a used AP for just that reason actually with no real intention to tune the car in the near future.
 


TemecFist

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#90
I don't disagree with what anyone is saying about the radiator at all, I'm happy with my Mountune unit and I'll always recommend it. However, I'm 3 hours down the road from him (San Antonio) and street driving I never got over 210 and that's with sitting in stop and go traffic at 100+ degrees. We even have some decent hills and elevation here but nothing like you CA guys. Houston is super flat, it's biggest "mountains" are the overpasses unless you drive a couple hours out of town. OP isn't building a HS/HPDE or even a canyon car he just wants to throw on a couple mods to make it a little more fun, radiator is easy to do down the road if he wants more. He could likely get away with the 180 degree thermostat and a 70/30 mix for street driving. Unpopular opinion I know. But I can't remember a time, even in the summer where I was ripping around and got over 220 on the street.

With that last $300 you have get the control arm bolts (they are 1 time use stretch bolts), catch can, trans fluid and a panel filter. You're in Houston so I know you have access to E85, if you do decide to tune get E30/93 flash tunes and you'll be pretty happy.
Control arm bolts? What's wrong with the control arm bolts?
 


ronmcdon

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does installing a catch can actually do anything with this car? I mean it's not a cheap part at $200ish. Never been quite convinced it does a whole lot in other applications. I'm probably more likely to get a WMI kit haha
 


Dpro

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#93
does installing a catch can actually do anything with this car? I mean it's not a cheap part at $200ish. Never been quite convinced it does a whole lot in other applications. I'm probably more likely to get a WMI kit haha
That is up for debate, Some people swear by them others don’t bother. Really not sure if it keeps the top of ones valves cleaner. I am not running one and my buddies have not asked me if I got one.
I am more in the camp that our cars really do not need them hell you think if it was really needed Ford would have done it factory. They actually put a decent amount of thought into our stock turbo setup.
Also these cars and engines are years and miles ahead of SR20DET’s in Nissans. I mean do not get me wrong SR20DET’s are/where fine engines in their day.
 


ronmcdon

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#94
I'm not convinced it's quite an issue either but I suppose it's one of the 'peace of mind' parts. which I can empathize, as I almost always upgrade the radiator if not also oil cooler, first thing on most cars I get.
 


Dpro

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I'm not convinced it's quite an issue either but I suppose it's one of the 'peace of mind' parts. which I can empathize, as I almost always upgrade the radiator if not also oil cooler, first thing on most cars I get.
Ya the minute I saw the plastic core ends on the radiator and how small it was I was like yup this thing is gonna be replaced.
 


TemecFist

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#97
That is up for debate, Some people swear by them others don’t bother. Really not sure if it keeps the top of ones valves cleaner. I am not running one and my buddies have not asked me if I got one.
I am more in the camp that our cars really do not need them hell you think if it was really needed Ford would have done it factory. They actually put a decent amount of thought into our stock turbo setup.
Also these cars and engines are years and miles ahead of SR20DET’s in Nissans. I mean do not get me wrong SR20DET’s are/where fine engines in their day.
"If it was needed, Ford wouldve done it"..?....cough, cough.....radiator.....lol.
 


Dpro

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#98
Ok. I missed that part. Thank you sir.
Ya their is question about those as well. As Ford pretty much puts all suspension bolts in that category but quite a few have reused them without issues. Like all 4 hub bolts in the rear are listed in the factory manual as replace but how many of us have stuck camber plates in and just reused the bolt. Not saying its right but did Ford go a little nuts with one time use thing.

"If it was needed, Ford wouldve done it"..?....cough, cough.....radiator.....lol.
Ah I see what you did there :ROFLMAO: caught in my own trap. It’s a trap I swear
 


TemecFist

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Ya their is question about those as well. As Ford pretty much puts all suspension bolts in that category but quite a few have reused them without issues. Like all 4 hub bolts in the rear are listed in the factory manual as replace but how many of us have stuck camber plates in and just reused the bolt. Not saying its right but did Ford go a little nuts with one time use thing.



Ah I see what you did there :ROFLMAO: caught in my own trap. It’s a trap I swear
Lol!!!!
 


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