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Slave Cylinder/Clutch Fiasco

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Phoenix, AZ, USA
#1
Hey all, I previously had posted about a weird sound my 2016 FiST was making that i found out ended up being a almost entire transmission failure. Since then, I purchased a refurbished transmission with quaife lsd, st200+ clutch, oe flywheel, and a new slave cylinder for the car. My post today is about what happened after i installed all of that, and asking where i should go from my current stand point. I installed all those parts a few weekends ago with no issue, everything torqued to spec and all put back together, the first mistake i made was not also replacing my master cylinder which i knew was going out, but the second mistake i made was not bleeding the system correctly. i bled the clutch system the traditional way not knowing we had a special way to bleed on these cars. this resulted in brake fluid dripping out of the bell housing as the slave cylinder blew a seal (pictured below). Last night me and a friend pulled everything back out and i since have ordered new brake rotors and pads, stainless brake lines, more fluids, and a new master and slave. My question is, with brake fluid going around in the bell housing when the first slave blew, i got brake fluid on my brand new clutch (pictured below), is this little amount of fluid going to deem my clutch useless? and if so is there any way i can save it? id rather not spend another $500-600 on another clutch when i didn't even get to use this one. Any information would be more than helpful.
 


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#3
Brake fluid is soluble in water. It washes right off. I just replaced my clutch, slave, disk, and master, and put in an MFactory LSD. It’s perfect now. Bled it from the bottom up my making a reservoir out of a ball jar with two holes in the lid for hoses. Pressurized the fluid filled jar with about 10-15 psi of air, and pushed the fluid up from the slave and out the top, letting the fluid spill out with the lid off. Washed it all off with water.
 


OP
MaxG1128
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Thread Starter #5
Clutch disc is dunbar....need to replace due to contamination *

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if that’s the case, can i just replace the disc? or do i need a new pressure plate as well? i know the flywheel i can just degrease.



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TyphoonFiST

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#6
if that’s the case, can i just replace the disc? or do i need a new pressure plate as well? i know the flywheel i can just degrease.



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Yes the pressure plate can be cleaned with brake cleaner and reused*

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MaxG1128
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Thread Starter #7
Yes the pressure plate can be cleaned with brake cleaner and reused*

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gotcha, just to be sure though, this is the back of the pressure plate. what do you think?



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TyphoonFiST

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gotcha, just to be sure though, this is the back of the pressure plate. what do you think?



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It's just Metal* use brake cleaner and clean it off.

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TyphoonFiST

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#10
How are you bleeding the clutch? And are you installing the clutch disc the correct way? Most disc are marked Trans side* to show which side should be facing the engine and Transmission. If this isn't done correctly the Clutch slave will go bye bye and spray the disc with fluid* FYI. Good luck

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MaxG1128
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Thread Starter #11
How are you bleeding the clutch? And are you installing the clutch disc the correct way? Most disc are marked Trans side* to show which side should be facing the engine and Transmission. If this isn't done correctly the Clutch slave will go bye bye and spray the disc with fluid* FYI. Good luck

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this clutch was not labeled as to which direction it should go in, i of course used an alignment tool and torqued the pressure plate to spec. i bled the system the first time incorrectly and now have seen how ford says to do it. so this time i plan on using the correct ford method


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TyphoonFiST

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#12
this clutch was not labeled as to which direction it should go in, i of course used an alignment tool and torqued the pressure plate to spec. i bled the system the first time incorrectly and now have seen how ford says to do it. so this time i plan on using the correct ford method


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Which is? Vacuum bleeding. A motive power vacuum bleeder is awesome. BTW Those alignment tools don't do jack shit* and jack just left town. A universal clutch alignment tool is the easiest and best way other than a $400 dollar a specialty tool. These clutch systems don't have a pilot bearing so those tools are mediocre At best. This is cheap and easy to use and it centers the plate perfectly....no dicking around.

Universal Clutch Alignment... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LPLQMP6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Motive Products - 0108 Brake... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TK9FE8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


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MaxG1128
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Thread Starter #13
Which is? Those alignment tools don't do jack shit* and jack just left town. A universal clutch alignment tool is the easiest and best way other than a $400 dollar a specialty tool. These clutch systems don't have a pilot bearing so those tools are mediocre At best. This is cheap and easy to use and it centers the plate perfectly....no dicking around.


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well i’ll for sure have to get myself one of those, did you just order online?


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TyphoonFiST

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#14
well i’ll for sure have to get myself one of those, did you just order online?


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Linked and all for ya....ill NEVER bleed anything without one EVERY AGAIN. Also does your brake fluid cap have 3 tangs that interlock on the reservoir? If so the kit I listed will work for you. I heard there was a cap difference through the grapevine in newer years.....dont know if it's true though.

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MaxG1128
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Thread Starter #15
Linked and all for ya....ill NEVER bleed anything without one EVERY AGAIN. Also does your brake fluid cap have 3 tangs that interlock on the reservoir? If so the kit I listed will work for you. I heard there was a cap difference through the grapevine in newer years.....dont know if it's true though.

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i’m almost certain my cap is just like that, im gonna for sure order myself both of those, i don’t wanna pull this trans again for a WHILE so i definitely wanna do things right this time.


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TyphoonFiST

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i’m almost certain my cap is just like that, im gonna for sure order myself both of those, i don’t wanna pull this trans again for a WHILE so i definitely wanna do things right this time.


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Look at it this way...You can now pull the Transmission in half the time if needed! I know I can!
 


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#17
The correct way to bleed is to push the fluid from the slave bleeder valve. That’s what Ford specifies, and it worked perfectly for me.
 


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MaxG1128
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Thread Starter #18
UPDATE: since last time you guys have heard from me, i got new brake rotors pads and lines, a new slave and master, and a new clutch disc. everything is back in the car, but now it won’t start. cranks for about 10-15sec then shuts off, throwing codes P0223 (throttle body position sensor circuit low) and P0123 (throttle body position sensor circuit high) thinking about replacing the throttle body but don’t want to waste the money if it isn’t gonna do anything for me, battery is good.


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TyphoonFiST

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#19
UPDATE: since last time you guys have heard from me, i got new brake rotors pads and lines, a new slave and master, and a new clutch disc. everything is back in the car, but now it won’t start. cranks for about 10-15sec then shuts off, throwing codes P0223 (throttle body position sensor circuit low) and P0123 (throttle body position sensor circuit high) thinking about replacing the throttle body but don’t want to waste the money if it isn’t gonna do anything for me, battery is good.


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That's weird....clear the codes and try to restart it again. Is everything plugged back in where it needs to be?

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MaxG1128
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Thread Starter #20
That's weird....clear the codes and try to restart it again. Is everything plugged back in where it needs to be?

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yeah i double checked all plugs/connectors, and tried clearing codes and starting again, i took some stuff apart to double check stuff so i’ll update later tonight or tomorrow, im gonna double check the throttle body and go from there. not sure if it’d be related but i do have the stratified 4 port aux fuel kit installed, just not plugged in yet since we haven’t gotten to that stage of tuning.


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