"Super Hub" or upgraded wheel hubs

[MagnetiseST]

Not a whole lot of info, but check page 24.

http://www.norcalmotorsports.org/users/bryan/mods/2014_FiST/R2+Parts+Manual+V5.7.pdf

The part number is BR19010001A

its available at $250 PER HUB

 

[M-Sport fan]

Of course, it does NOT tell us the bolt pattern on those hubs.

 

[MagnetiseST]

Of course, it does NOT tell us the bolt pattern on those hubs.

It also doesn’t tell you that it would require a brake upgrade that costs around $3500 lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[M-Sport fan]

HA! Yeah, you might as well go for the $8K+ Reiger coil over kit as well at that point. LOL (But they ARE sweet! )

 

[GotVic]

The part number is BR19010001A

its available at $250 PER HUB

Looking around a bit, if these are high performance hubs that last a while, price isn't bad. But if they're just a factory hub in 5 lug, then yeah, that's a bit pricey.

If the hub face (offset) and diameter doesn't change from stock, redrilling rotors for 5 lug shouldn't be a big deal. If you're willing to go through a little trouble to have the rotors redrilled, any of the BBKs should work... theoretically.

I guess we can add this to the FiST wish list along with a better input shaft and upgraded axles.

 

[MagnetiseST]

Looking around a bit, if these are high performance hubs that last a while, price isn't bad. But if they're just a factory hub in 5 lug, then yeah, that's a bit pricey.

If the hub face (offset) and diameter doesn't change from stock, redrilling rotors for 5 lug shouldn't be a big deal. If you're willing to go through a little trouble to have the rotors redrilled, any of the BBKs should work... theoretically.

I guess we can add this to the FiST wish list along with a better input shaft and upgraded axles.

Axles can be had from DSS I believe.

I suppose you could just re-drill the stock rotors for whatever bolt pattern these are or if you already have a BBK you could re-drill / get custom rotor hats made if you have floating rotors.

 

[GotVic]

Maybe there is hope:
http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/aftermarket-parts/wilwood-prohub-for-1990-2005-mx-5-miata/

Wonder how many pre-orders it would take...

 

[Questionable]

Maybe there is hope:
http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/aftermarket-parts/wilwood-prohub-for-1990-2005-mx-5-miata/

Wonder how many pre-orders it would take...

It'd take more than the number of orders to get a batch of custom hubs similar to the Focus "Super Hubs" I mentioned in the original post.

When I Google "Super Hub Focus" the most recent thread I can find is this Chump/CHAMP one that started in 2018, but I don't think they've done a run since early 2019. Those hubs were $600 for a set of 4, and it was hard getting batches going after the first. It's $75 for the hub/bearing kit I replaced my front hubs with, so I'm going to just plan on replacing those regularly for the next few years. If this becomes more of an issue, getting a good machine shop to design and make batches of similar custom hubs will probably be the best plan.

 

[oddracing]

Hey guys! Saw there were some questions about hubs here. I can assure you the R2 hubs are a 5x108 bolt pattern. I currently have 2 R2 and a couple cars with the M-Sport conversion on them at the shop. The R5 hubs are 5x135 but use a different bearing type since they are using a motorsport upright and bearing housing. Hopefully that clears things up for you guys!

 

[GotVic]

Hey guys! Saw there were some questions about hubs here. I can assure you the R2 hubs are a 5x108 bolt pattern. I currently have 2 R2 and a couple cars with the M-Sport conversion on them at the shop. The R5 hubs are 5x135 but use a different bearing type since they are using a motorsport upright and bearing housing. Hopefully that clears things up for you guys!

Are these hubs a better design than stock, or are they just 5 lug versions of the factory hub?

 

[oddracing]

Are these hubs a better design than stock, or are they just 5 lug versions of the factory hub?

If you are referring to the R2 hubs, it doesn't appear that way. They come from M-Sport in a Ford box with the part numbers scratched off. The R5 hubs are a bespoke motorsport hub that are different.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Hey guys! Saw there were some questions about hubs here. I can assure you the R2 hubs are a 5x108 bolt pattern. I currently have 2 R2 and a couple cars with the M-Sport conversion on them at the shop. The R5 hubs are 5x135 but use a different bearing type since they are using a motorsport upright and bearing housing. Hopefully that clears things up for you guys!

So, the R2 M-Sport, gravel, 15" diameter, OZed 'disc' style wheels, which are now totally 'out of print' it seems, were a 5x108 bolt pattern??

Is there anything else (or at the very least, MORE choices than we currently have sticking with a 4x108), wheel wise, (gravel AND tarmac) out there, to justify going to the R2 5x108 hubs?

 

[M-Sport fan]

If you are referring to the R2 hubs, it doesn't appear that way. They come from M-Sport in a Ford box with the part numbers scratched off. The R5 hubs are a bespoke motorsport hub that are different.

So, unless one is building a no street use (except for the transits), bona fide stage rally open class car, the R5 hub conversion is a NO GO, correct?

 

[oddracing]

So, the R2 M-Sport, gravel, 15" diameter, OZed 'disc' style wheels, which are now totally 'out of print' it seems, were a 5x108 bolt pattern??

Is there anything else (or at the very least, MORE choices than we currently have sticking with a 4x108), wheel wise, (gravel AND tarmac) out there, to justify going to the R2 5x108 hubs?

You will find if someone makes a 5x108 gravel rally wheel, they likely make a 4x108 gravel wheel. The ones I know are available are Speedline, Braid, Compomotive, and Team Dynamics. Usually there is a range of offsets you can get as well. I am not sure what you are looking for in wheels, but options are out there.

So, unless one is building a no street use (except for the transits), bona fide stage rally open class car, the R5 hub conversion is a NO GO, correct?

That is correct. We are not talking about a hub and bearing replacement. It is replacing just about everything attached to and including the upright.

 

[MagnetiseST]

If you are referring to the R2 hubs, it doesn't appear that way. They come from M-Sport in a Ford box with the part numbers scratched off. The R5 hubs are a bespoke motorsport hub that are different.

Do the R2 hubs simply press into the standard Fiesta knuckle? Or is a totally different bearing required?

I'm wondering if the factory brake discs could be re-drilled to work with a 5x108 pattern.... or any brake disc for that matter. Not that there are tons more choices in 5x108, but there are a good selection of wheels for the Focus that we could use....

 

[oddracing]

Do the R2 hubs simply press into the standard Fiesta knuckle? Or is a totally different bearing required?

I'm wondering if the factory brake discs could be re-drilled to work with a 5x108 pattern.... or any brake disc for that matter. Not that there are tons more choices in 5x108, but there are a good selection of wheels for the Focus that we could use....

You just use the Fiesta bearing, no changes to anything but switching out the hub. Obviously it is recommended to replace the bearing any time you are replacing the hub, but it is up to you. Brake rotors can be re-drilled, or custom made for relatively cheap through Coleman. We have custom blank rotors made through them to work with our gravel brake set up.

 

[JDG]

You just use the Fiesta bearing, no changes to anything but switching out the hub. Obviously it is recommended to replace the bearing any time you are replacing the hub, but it is up to you. Brake rotors can be re-drilled, or custom made for relatively cheap through Coleman. We have custom blank rotors made through them to work with our gravel brake set up.

Where can I find more information on this "Gravel Brake Setup"?

Edit: Found this on your website

Brakes
Heat management is the most important aspect for rally car brakes. We use an AP racing package in the front with Performance Friction brake pads. The brakes have to be small enough to fit in a 15" wheel, so we are limited on size. The rear brake set up is the stock Fiesta ST set up, with upgraded pads and rotors. A separate hand brake is added to the system and uses a additional brake cylinder. We also change out all the rubber brakes lines for either hard or braided lines. The pedals are a custom Tilton floor mounted kit with dual master cylinders for the front and rear.

I assume the AP racing brake kit is not designed for an OEM master cylinder/booster? The tilton pedal box is needed?

 

[oddracing]

Where can I find more information on this "Gravel Brake Setup"?

Edit: Found this on your website

Brakes
Heat management is the most important aspect for rally car brakes. We use an AP racing package in the front with Performance Friction brake pads. The brakes have to be small enough to fit in a 15" wheel, so we are limited on size. The rear brake set up is the stock Fiesta ST set up, with upgraded pads and rotors. A separate hand brake is added to the system and uses a additional brake cylinder. We also change out all the rubber brakes lines for either hard or braided lines. The pedals are a custom Tilton floor mounted kit with dual master cylinders for the front and rear.

I assume the AP racing brake kit is not designed for an OEM master cylinder/booster? The tilton pedal box is needed?

That car had the AP Racing kit, but we have since started using our own combination that is more price effective. We use Wilwood calipers, pads, and rotor hats. Custom rotor blanks and caliper mounts. Either kit works fine with the OE master cylinder, but we delete the booster in all of our cars, so I can't comment on how it will feel with assist. Sometimes we will play with the MC size to get the right feel, but that is dependent on the driver. Not all of our cars run pedal boxes, just depends on the level of the build. But, we ALWAYS upgrade the brakes.

 

[JDG]

That car had the AP Racing kit, but we have since started using our own combination that is more price effective. We use Wilwood calipers, pads, and rotor hats. Custom rotor blanks and caliper mounts. Either kit works fine with the OE master cylinder, but we delete the booster in all of our cars, so I can't comment on how it will feel with assist. Sometimes we will play with the MC size to get the right feel, but that is dependent on the driver. Not all of our cars run pedal boxes, just depends on the level of the build. But, we ALWAYS upgrade the brakes.

I'll shoot you an email. Curious on pricing.

 

[M-Sport fan]

That car had the AP Racing kit, but we have since started using our own combination that is more price effective. We use Wilwood calipers, pads, and rotor hats. Custom rotor blanks and caliper mounts. Either kit works fine with the OE master cylinder, but we delete the booster in all of our cars, so I can't comment on how it will feel with assist. Sometimes we will play with the MC size to get the right feel, but that is dependent on the driver. Not all of our cars run pedal boxes, just depends on the level of the build. But, we ALWAYS upgrade the brakes.

Was that front AP Racing kit the actual M-Sport Poland supplied, R2 car kit, or something else from AP which you adapted??