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Thanks for the add, having some issues...

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Location
Fairless Hills
#1
I have two Fiesta ST’s. A 2014 and a 2016. The ’14 is with my kid down in Florida. I bought it used and it had a Cobb stage one kit with a Passport already in it. On occasion it starts sputtering as if it’s misfiring and has little to no power and then dies. I had her use the Passport to flash the ECU. The check engine light went out and it seemed fine, for a short period. Then it acted up on her again and has died again. Can anyone help me out with this? Do I need a new ECU or will putting it back to the factory tune fix the problem? At this point, I just want my kid to have reliable transportation as I am up in Pennsylvania and can’t help her out in person. I had her take it to a Ford dealership down there and they were scratching there heads. They claimed that because it has aftermarket HID headlights/ fog lamps installed that it may be messing with the ECU but that sounds like horse shit to me. I have aftermarket HID’s on my Tundra and have never had an issue. Any help is appreciated, thanks.
 


green_henry

1000 Post Club
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Pleasant Hill, CA
#3
I have two Fiesta ST’s. A 2014 and a 2016. The ’14 is with my kid down in Florida. I bought it used and it had a Cobb stage one kit with a Passport already in it. On occasion it starts sputtering as if it’s misfiring and has little to no power and then dies. I had her use the Passport to flash the ECU. The check engine light went out and it seemed fine, for a short period. Then it acted up on her again and has died again. Can anyone help me out with this? Do I need a new ECU or will putting it back to the factory tune fix the problem? At this point, I just want my kid to have reliable transportation as I am up in Pennsylvania and can’t help her out in person. I had her take it to a Ford dealership down there and they were scratching there heads. They claimed that because it has aftermarket HID headlights/ fog lamps installed that it may be messing with the ECU but that sounds like horse shit to me. I have aftermarket HID’s on my Tundra and have never had an issue. Any help is appreciated, thanks.
I wouldn't think that lights would mess with the ECU directly, but if they're putting a strain on the alternator, then that might mess with the ECU. All kinds of weird things can happen when the alternator starts failing.
 


JDG

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#4
Use the Cobb Accessport to pull the codes. Let us know what they are. I would then go back to the stock tune and see if the problem persists. Without more information it will be tough to troubleshoot remotely. Could be anything from bad gas, to spark plugs, to something with the evap system. Very hard to know without the codes. When the check engine light comes back on, get the codes and post them here.
 


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453
Location
Montrose
#5
I have a 2014 and my Alternator needed to be changed in November when I had 135,905 in mileage. Kept losing power, engine light indicator would light up, sync lcd radio would shut down, battery was draining, and car would shut down.

It sounds like your 2014 has symptoms of alternator going bad. They can use voltmeter to check if alternator is going bad. FYI, dealer quoted me way over $1000 to change alternator. I took it to mechanic near my house that towing recommended and it was done for $500 and he ordered brand new OEM Alternator.
 


OP
MikeyMo
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Fairless Hills
Thread Starter #7
Use the Cobb Accessport to pull the codes. Let us know what they are. I would then go back to the stock tune and see if the problem persists. Without more information it will be tough to troubleshoot remotely. Could be anything from bad gas, to spark plugs, to something with the evap system. Very hard to know without the codes. When the check engine light comes back on, get the codes and post them here.
I’ll have her pull the codes tonight. I haven’t messed around much/ in a long time with the COBB accessport. Refresh my memory, can I use it to go back to the stock tune without having to bring it to the shop?
 


OP
MikeyMo
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Fairless Hills
Thread Starter #10
So it turns out the problem was very simple. I had a crack in the vacuum line under the plastic engine cover. Cut away the damaged portion and reattached and she started running fine again.
 


flbchbm

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#11
Welcome to the machine.
Yeah, leaky vacuums suck....or do they? lol Glad you found it. Get her back on the tune so she can have some fun...
 


OP
MikeyMo
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7
Location
Fairless Hills
Thread Starter #12
Use the Cobb Accessport to pull the codes. Let us know what they are. I would then go back to the stock tune and see if the problem persists. Without more information it will be tough to troubleshoot remotely. Could be anything from bad gas, to spark plugs, to something with the evap system. Very hard to know without the codes. When the check engine light comes back on, get the codes and post them here.
I’m now getting a U1007 code for BCM/ Battery Monitoring Sensor. Anyone have this issue? I just drove the car 1000 miles in a day and a half and no issues. Now, Weird, glitchy electronic shit. Entertainment System won’t shut off, Clicking sound in the dash, Battery drains, car struggles to start if it starts at all. WTF?!
 


TyphoonFiST

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Rich-fizzield
#13
Replace the battery sensor* How old is the battery? Ge that tested also! There is also a Fuse in the positive cable. Check that to see if its blown also
 


Last edited:
OP
MikeyMo
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Fairless Hills
Thread Starter #14
Battery is good. The fuse is good. What’s the battery sensor look like/ where is it? Is it attached to the negative clamp for the battery terminal?
 


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