The Best High Performance AS Tires

[Intuit]

I personally don't believe in block lists. I'm interested in what someone has to say, even if I don't agree with them. I don't see the point of having a forum where the people only exchange with those they agree with.

When it comes down to irrelevant and off-topic personal attacks and outright lies... moderators... in place of block lists.

Regarding the topic of the thread, the only reason I'm running Summer + Winter sets (both on two sets of OEM black rims) is because I didn't want to waste (or sell) a good set of Spring - Fall tires. Once I wear out both sets of Summer tires, (hopefully before needing another Winter set,) I'll be looking for a good set of all seasons... and not with the pretty curvy lines and center line grooves, but ones with the gnarliest, ugliest tread pattern (preferrably) from a domestic tire manufacturer. Pretty tread patterns are great for water, but almost useless in the Winter snow. They don't bite and you just end up loosing speed and even getting stuck on hills. But ugly tread patterns are hard to find and probably don't sell.

 

[thee4man]

Running the as3+ for 6 months a year here in oregon. From 40 to 60 degrees F and rainy i think they do a wonderful job. I dont notice the compound flex in the cold (obviously) but anything above that temperature range and they kinda fall apart. At least in terms of their feel when taking out some aggression in the mountains. Given that half the year I drive in that kind of weather i think they make good sense, but a real summer/real winter tire combo is the smart way to do it. I prefer to have all 3. Cheers

 

[danbfree]

I ended up with fresh Cosmo Mucho Macho UHP M+S W speed rated All Season in 215/40/17. $320 a set installed, I run them at 42 psi in the front and 39 in the rear (3 above the A/S 3 sepcs) and they handle great with excellent grip in the dry and are amazing in the rain while providing a good ride. I work from home now so the car will be used less miles a year now and more for fun and quick errands so these should last me at LEAST 15k at a soft 300tw with AA traction that feels right to me.

So all I can say is that I'm happy with cheap UHP all season's, at least ones that have decently sporty specs while also meeting M&S standards.

 

[jmrtsus]

I personally don't believe in block lists. I'm interested in what someone has to say, even if I don't agree with them. I don't see the point of having a forum where the people only exchange with those they agree with.

When it comes down to irrelevant and off-topic personal attacks and outright lies... moderators... in place of block lists.

Regarding the topic of the thread, the only reason I'm running Summer + Winter sets (both on two sets of OEM black rims) is because I didn't want to waste (or sell) a good set of Spring - Fall tires. Once I wear out both sets of Summer tires, (hopefully before needing another Winter set,) I'll be looking for a good set of all seasons... and not with the pretty curvy lines and center line grooves, but ones with the gnarliest, ugliest tread pattern (preferrably) from a domestic tire manufacturer. Pretty tread patterns are great for water, but almost useless in the Winter snow. They don't bite and you just end up loosing speed and even getting stuck on hills. But ugly tread patterns are hard to find and probably don't sell.

People are different, I have zero interest in what a BS artist has to say nor people that seem to believe every ad they see and want to argue about the bogus ads as facts. I no longer have to deal with anyone I don't want to have interactions with since the day I retired from correction. No more room in my life for liars, BS artists and general a-holes. Block lists are great!

 

[ywgbandit]

For being an economy car I've managed to spend somewhere around 7K on performance parts so far lol

LMAO....I'm not there yet, but I'm trying hard!!!

 

[Sam4]

Thank God the tires, any of them, will be beat by 20K, and need to be swapped out for something new. A chance for a different choice. Because we are susceptible to noise, I went with Bridgestone 980's, and now that the wearbars are showing, they are getting "un-trustworthy". Also - I am constantly amazed with how sensitive the car is to tire pressure. Can't get a shop to reset to the door plate psi, even when I ask! (40F/35R cause I like round numbers). Lower numbers get real harsh bumps and awful steering torque on road imperfections (not torque steer from acceleration).

 

[jmrtsus]

Thank God the tires, any of them, will be beat by 20K, and need to be swapped out for something new. A chance for a different choice. Because we are susceptible to noise, I went with Bridgestone 980's, and now that the wearbars are showing, they are getting "un-trustworthy". Also - I am constantly amazed with how sensitive the car is to tire pressure. Can't get a shop to reset to the door plate psi, even when I ask! (40F/35R cause I like round numbers). Lower numbers get real harsh bumps and awful steering torque on road imperfections (not torque steer from acceleration).

Thank God the tires, any of them, will be beat by 20K, and need to be swapped out for something new. A chance for a different choice. Because we are susceptible to noise, I went with Bridgestone 980's, and now that the wearbars are showing, they are getting "un-trustworthy". Also - I am constantly amazed with how sensitive the car is to tire pressure. Can't get a shop to reset to the door plate psi, even when I ask! (40F/35R cause I like round numbers). Lower numbers get real harsh bumps and awful steering torque on road imperfections (not torque steer from acceleration).

Not so sure about your 20K number. I got 32K from the OEM Bridgestone's but I am anal about car care. I don't remember ever having to buy tires at 20K except when I was Auto-crossing a rotary Mazda years ago that ate front tires. I switched to General G-MAX AS tires based on top rating in wet handling for my FiST. I also did not want to replace another OEM tire and wheel from a pothole. The AS tires gave me a little more side wall to prevent that I hope. Very happy with them. I get my tires rotated with each oil change, about 3.5K miles. Don't autocross or race the car and have never done a drop clutch start. 80% of my driving is interstate, 10% city and 10% hard driving mountain road. Each person will have different results based on their driving style. Also confused by "reset to door plate numbers". You can set the pressure at almost any gas/convenience store. Why do you need a "shop" to do it? Also the "door plate " number is for the OEM tires. The tire manufacturer sets the inflation levels for their tire model and it may or may not match the plate for the tires you bought. Ultimately tire pressure is a "recommendation" not a law, LOL Could it be your tires are not rated for the 40 lbs you want in the front? Other than that being the reason if you are handing them money and they will not fill the tires to what you want stop handing them money and find a competent shop. We get Goodyear tires free, brother-in-law works for them, but they no longer have a tire in our size so had to actually pay for tires this time. Got them installed and really like them. If you live in a cold climate they take a set in cold weather like below 20 degrees and are noisy until they warm up in a few miles, only happened once this winter where I am. Other than the pothole problem I loved the OEM's but it was over $1200 to replace them at the time. The General's were less than 1/2 the price. Wrench on!

 

[Intuit]

.................. awful steering torque on road imperfections (not torque steer from acceleration).

Depending on which you're referring, that's called "bump steer" or "road steer". If you're getting bump steer, then something is wrong. A little bit of road steer can be normal, depending on the road of course. Grooves or ruts worn into the pavement are a perfect example of where narrower vehicles will experience a lot of road steer. Motorcycle down waiting on timing chain and gasket, I've been busy undoing the damage that the dealership hacks did and getting an alignment is on my list.

 

[Sam4]

Round numbers. 20k is an estimate. I'm at 60K and not going to make until next winter on my current set - wear bars are showing. My first front wheel drive car, a 1980 Ford Fiesta, 12" donuts from the factory, ate tires, and I learned about "+1", Ronal 13 inchers and by God TA radials!! The car before my 2015 fiST, a mazdaspeed 3, was the king of torque steer, hands down.

Intuit - why would you go with oversize during the winter? That goes against conventional thinking.

 

[ywgbandit]

Where I live a straight summer tire would be dangerous. We can and do get snow and heavy rain in the mountains any month of the year, so I pretty much have to run an all season tire even though my FiST is only on the road April to Oct. I was wondering if anyone has tried the B.F. Goodrich g-Force COMP-2 A/S?

 

[Intuit]

Intuit - why would you go with oversize during the winter? That goes against conventional thinking.

Several considerations. First, it's just 10mm; they're not wide enough to behave like snow shoes. OEM sized wheels (limited selection) and ground clearance will become an issue before traction. Past experiences in different vehicle says that the most important factors are tire tread pattern, compound, fill level, and ground clearance. I saw no loss of performance going 10mm wider. I've had A/S Yokohamas with a "pretty" tread pattern and got stuck often. I could go no where in them when snow merely touched the bottom. Had A/S Kelly with an "ugly" tread pattern and didn't have any issues getting stuck. They were only challenged when ground clearance became a factor. (or ice, of course)