Vacuum diagram

[Rocketst]

Anyone got a vacuum diagram for a 2017?

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[Rocketst]

Bump. If anyone has a general idea of all the vacuum lines, I have a vacuum leak I'm trying to figure out. It's been really allusive it's gotta be crazy small but I'm pretty sure my misfires I'm getting are related to that. I'd greatly appreciate anyone who can help me out. This subject I know little about.

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[Intuit]

I believe there's only one source for vacuum, and that's the intake. Remove the engine cover and trace all the lines, running off the intake. Besides the sensor(s) and brake booster, there aren't many items that rely on vacuum anymore. Once you determine what's what, you can begin selectively isolating circuits, with exception to the brake booster of course, as this is a safety item. If you're missing while idling, or can still generate the miss by revving at a standstill, you could even isolate that circuit.

 

[Rocketst]

Well I'm pretty sure it's my crankcase vent valve that's acting up but I'm getting the code for leak between intake valves and TB and it appears as though there's nothing in between those directly. How do you recommend isolating? I'm missing rapidly at around 2500-2700 rpm but I have not noticed this at idle. I've been chasing this for months.

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[Rebmedino13]

I'm getting the same code P2282 and I've checked all vacuum lines and sensors... please help ... ford dealership couldn't find the problem.
2017 Fiest ST

 

[SteveS]

The code means air leak between throttle body and intake valves. So vacuum leaks are potential sites, but any intake air leak (boost leak) could be involved.

 

[PunkST]

Anyone bother checking the bolts and seals for the intake to the head? Its a rubber seal on a plastic part. Its another failure point that often goes unchecked. ( had an evap code chase on my wifes gti. Found it when we replaced injectors. Some of the bolts were loose on the IM. Code would show up with large swings in outdoor temp)

 

[Intuit]

Good suggestion. Yeah I don't know if it's the case anymore, but it's extremely common that intake and exhaust manifold bolts would be loose and even backed-off on high mileage engines. During head gasket work on my previous vehicle (@ ~190k if memory serves) basically all of the intake manifold and most of the exhaust manifold bolts were either loose or backing off. Didn't result with any leaks though... it actually took quite a bit of force to separate the intake. I just pulled the head with it still attached and pulled them apart, outside of the engine bay. But other forum members with the same vehicle did report leaks with theirs.

 

[PunkST]

I know those seals also get cooked easily if the car overheats. ( thank you svtf thermostat housing for always leaking 🤦)

 

[The_frees99]

I’m fighting a vacuum leak too got these codes any ideas?

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Have you done any work there lately? Is the car tuned? Mileage? year?

 

[The_frees99]

Have you done any work there lately? Is the car tuned? Mileage? year?

It’s a 2016 with 37k on it and I haven’t done any work to it I bought the car usesd it’s not completely

 

[AnarchyVZz]

Well I'm pretty sure it's my crankcase vent valve that's acting up but I'm getting the code for leak between intake valves and TB and it appears as though there's nothing in between those directly. How do you recommend isolating? I'm missing rapidly at around 2500-2700 rpm but I have not noticed this at idle. I've been chasing this for months.

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Did you ever figure this out man? Dealing with the same issue now and looking for any suggestions! Thanks.

 

[Intuit]

Process of elimination.