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Vibra-Technics Rear Motor Mount and why polyurethane bushings might be a bad decision

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San Jose
#1
I was prepared to sell my Fiesta ST, it wasn't exciting me anymore and I had THOUGHT I was ready for a new experience. I had been compensating for symptoms of a failing rmm for close to a year at this point (without completely realizing that I was, in fact, compensating), clutch take-up was vague and it was hard to drive smoothly without really riding the clutch. Part of me just thought that since the car is coming up on 80k and I taught myself to drive stick on it that maybe it was time for a clutch so I was sort of planning on dumping the car before that bill came due.

On a whim, I decided to replaced the rmm. Part of me suspected something was going on with this due to all of the symptoms I'd learned to alter my driving habits to accomodate. I just sort of noticed one day that everything about how I was driving the car was different than it used to be, and it felt a lot less engaging. To be fair to me, this would be the third time since I've owned the car that I'd replace the rmm, so I wasn't entirely convinced this was the issue especially since I couldn't really rock the motor by hand. I bought the car with around 43k miles on the odometer, and she's currently sitting at around 76k miles so for anyone counting I've done a rmm once every 10k miles give or take a few thousand.

In that time span, I've eaten through rmms from both mountune and whoosh. When the mountune went, I'd assumed that I just had a bad batch of bushings but now that I've also destroyed a mountune in roughly the same mileage span I'm starting to believe that poly bushings just aren't a good material for the Fiesta given that the rmm is connectted to the trans and downpipe/catalytic convereter it just means theres a significant amount of heat soak back there. Reading through cPe's rmm descriptor, they suggest that polyurethane is specifically a bad material for the FiST for the aforementioned reasons, so I wanted to grab a rmm that used any material besides polyurethane. I'd initially elected to replaced the whoosh rmm (the most recent failure) with a cPe, which advertised as using EPDM rubber, but as luck would have it Ron had just sold the last one as I had placed the order.

Rather than wait, I went with a Vibra-Techincs unit that used rubber in the bushing material, and at Ron's recommendation I elected for the competition (not the fast road) bushing variant as he told me that would offer the most similar characteristics to the cPe unit. Install was NOT 100% straightforward. The only annoying bit was when I ended up having to drill out the factory mounting plate to get the dowel on the Vibra-Technics unit to fit (I went full caveman on this and sideloaded a 1/2 drill bit to ream the hole, in retrospect a cheap metal file would've probably been a better option).

Initial impressions: Vibrations are definitely noticeable, particularly below 2k rpm, but I'm digging it for now. I will update after I spend a few weeks doing my 90 mile round trip commute on whether or not I regret the... added sensory input. It seems livable right now. Clutch takeup is buttery smooth and I've already found 2 seperate occasions to take the car out even though I don't really have time for any joy rides right now and, most importantly, its gotten me excited about driving my FiST again!

So, a word of warning to new owners and other beings from the future: If you have a RMM with polyurethane bushings, you're gonna want to change that out.
 


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OP
DoomsdayMelody
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Thread Starter #3
Please describe how it is failing? Is it tearing, turning to mush what is going on?


Sent from my SM-A526U using Tapatalk
Whoosh RMM bushings after ~16k miles

Polyurethane bushings deformed, I assume due to heat since they are mostly intact but no longer hold themselves snuggly into the mount frame or hold on to the little spacers/sleeves that go through the mount. In the video you can see the rear sleeve is missing (I hadn't realized it had already fallen out while removing it from under the car) and you can see the bore in the front bushing is sorta oval shaped now. All of this ended up introducing play into the mount which made the car a lot more numb to drive and difficult to drive smoothly.
 


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OP
DoomsdayMelody
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Thread Starter #6
I’m on stock RMM and still happy with it. Can’t say if it is the original, car had 100k miles and I put on 30k.
I know the stock RMM gets a lot of hate, but honestly it isn't a terrible option especially when you consider durability. You can also throw in those powerflex inserts, although those are made of urethane too, but at least when they deform your entire mount hasn't failed.
 


kevinatfms

Senior Member
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#7
I had a CP-e RMM fail on me. They refused to warranty it because i didnt have the paperwork from 4+ years before(when they were in Maryland).

They wanted $40 + shipping to replace the bushing. That would have been more than 1/2 of what the stupid thing cost in the first place. What bugs me more is that its a lifetime replacement part yet they dont want to honor that.

So, i gave it away to someone who wanted to make delrin replacements. I ended up with a Boomba RMM for a while which was super stiff and worked great.

I recently went to an AWR mount in soft which i love. Have beat it to death without issue. Also have the PSS mount. Went with TTR on the driver side mount because the AWR wasnt available at the time.
 


M-Sport fan

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#8
I've only had a CP-E, and the Vibra-Technics fast road on the car so far (besides the OEM for about a week or so) from new.

The CP-E was fine, but it seemed to get a little 'buzzy', with a bunch more vibrations in the colder winter months, so I swapped it out for the VT fast road which has been just fine ever since, regardless of the season, or ambient temps.
(I too wanted to avoid poly, of ANY durometer in this application. [wink])

IF I knew at the time that the VT Competition was no higher a durometer than the CP-E, I probably would have bought that instead of the fast road version.
 


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clermont
#9
i have been running the vibra-technics fast road on all three mounts for over a month now.some vibration in the steering wheel but acceptable.
 


OP
DoomsdayMelody
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Thread Starter #10
Ok so one weekday commute down, the VT competition mount hasn't bothered me yet, but ask me again on friday.

Ambient temps were in the mid-50s (morning) to high 60s (afternoon), so nothing too cold. It got a little damp in the afternoon as some fog rolled into SF. Altogether a pretty typical use case for me personally. I spent just under 2 hours on the highway with cruise control set between 75 and 80, which in 6th gear has me taching at about 3k rpm +/- 100 rpm. For the purpose of documentation, I'll note that I am riding on Kumho Ecsta PS31 summer tires on OE wheels.

A few things I've noted:

Below 1500 rpm being on throttle makes your dashboard sound like its ready to come from togetherness (slight exageration), related to this there seems to be pockets in the rpm band where vibrations increase and decrease although the below 1500 rpm is definitely the most noticeable. Between 2k and 3.5k its smooth as glass and then you get a notable vibrations for a few hundred rpms and then it smooths out again.
Previously I'd bemoaned that there is no feedback through the steering wheel. Since the mount attatches to the subframe right by where the steering rack is mounted, I've noticed very subtle vibrations in the steering wheel at all rpms. You can also feel these in the pedals and so far I like this added sensory input.
The noise floor on the car is noticeably higher while driving on the highway now. Perhaps its the added vibrations, or the fact that my subframe is now much more stiffly connected to the transmission but I'm seriously considering adding a bit of noise insulation to either the wheel wells or the doors just to see if I can put this closer to stock levels. It was sort of difficult to hear the radio at the level I normally listen to it at. Although the silver lining here though is that the engine note in the cabin now has a nice bassy thrum to it. I'm gonna wait a while before I make a decison on the noise insulation and see how much the added noise bothers me going forward. I know they say increased NVH but I never expected the noise component of that the be such a noticeable increase.

I had a CP-e RMM fail on me. They refused to warranty it because i didnt have the paperwork from 4+ years before(when they were in Maryland).

They wanted $40 + shipping to replace the bushing. That would have been more than 1/2 of what the stupid thing cost in the first place. What bugs me more is that its a lifetime replacement part yet they dont want to honor that.

So, i gave it away to someone who wanted to make delrin replacements. I ended up with a Boomba RMM for a while which was super stiff and worked great.

I recently went to an AWR mount in soft which i love. Have beat it to death without issue. Also have the PSS mount. Went with TTR on the driver side mount because the AWR wasnt available at the time.
I can't believe the cPe used to cost less than $100, they go for $170 these days. I hope this is the last time i have to mess with this thing for at least 5 years, getting real tired of replacing this thing even if it is an easy job
 


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M-Sport fan

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#11
^^^I paid ~$160.00 shipped for my CP-E, on a big discount from C-PE directly, way back in 2016, so they were NEVER even close to as little as $100.00 (NEW, at least). [wink]
 


kevinatfms

Senior Member
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#14
^^^I paid ~$160.00 shipped for my CP-E, on a big discount from C-PE directly, way back in 2016, so they were NEVER even close to as little as $100.00 (NEW, at least). [wink]
When they were in Maryland at the time they were right at $120 when i picked mine up. Was quite easy as they were only 15 minutes from my work at the time.
 


Messages
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56
Location
Seattle
#16
When y'all went from the Mountune RMM to vibratechnics, was there any issue with the RMM mounting bracket that had to be countersunk for mountune? The vibratechnics looks like it does't require countersinking the bracket. Did you all have to buy a new bracket or did the counter sunk one work fine?
 


akiraproject24

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#17
When y'all went from the Mountune RMM to vibratechnics, was there any issue with the RMM mounting bracket that had to be countersunk for mountune? The vibratechnics looks like it does't require countersinking the bracket. Did you all have to buy a new bracket or did the counter sunk one work fine?
I just ran into this 2 weeks ago. The bracket's hole doesnt fit the vibra technics stud until it gets pressed into place either in a vice before hand OR while tightening into place it should press fit into the correct position. I havent gone back to revisit it yet though. That info was given by the forum and it should be found in the install instructions.
 


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Location
Anchorage
#19
I had Powerflex inserts for the two upper mounts and a series of different poly mounts, and was noticing a thunk starting to develop again under load.
Replaced all three with a set of Vibra-Technics, and have been mostly ok with it so far. Certainly more NVH than stock, maybe slightly reduced from before, but the thunk is gone.
The poly in the upper mounts was starting to harden, allowing the thunk to develop. The RMM was torn (again- I think this was number 3?). I'm hoping that these will last longer and not get horribly buzzy at cold temps. I think the failure mode is that the heat from the cat weakens the poly in the RMM, and this eventually degrades, allowing more flex and wear on the other mounts.
I think that there is tendency for folks to install a RMM, and this causes increased wear on the other mounts- but I am no engineer.
 


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Location
Seattle
#20
I opened up the bracket hole with a unibit.
To clarify you had to drill out (make a bigger hole) the existing counter-sunk hole that you had used for the mountune RMM to fit the vibratechnics?
 




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