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Woods247 BrokeFiST Build

jeffreylyon

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Oh boy..., I think that you just booked a good chunk of my winter. Your setup looks so much better than the M2 flares that I can't not give it a shot. My bumper cover sits right on top of and bolts into the the splitter, like yours, so it just needs to be indexed and kinda snugged against the fenders. How are you aligning the fender and the bumper cover?
 


Jabbit

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If it’s taller than stock (or 24” + in diameter), you’ll probably need to remove the boxed area that houses the three pain in the ass bumper/fender bolts. I was hesitant to cut all that out but man it’s sooooo much easier to take off the front bumper cover now. Rivnuts are the best!
They are 23.9" - fingers crossed!
 


jeffreylyon

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Oh boy..., I think that you just booked a good chunk of my winter. Your setup looks so much better than the M2 flares that I can't not give it a shot. My bumper cover sits right on top of and bolts into the the splitter, like yours, so it just needs to be indexed and kinda snugged against the fenders. How are you aligning the fender and the bumper cover?
... and I'm guessing that your fender liners are long gone?
 


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Woods247

Woods247

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Oh boy..., I think that you just booked a good chunk of my winter. Your setup looks so much better than the M2 flares that I can't not give it a shot. My bumper cover sits right on top of and bolts into the the splitter, like yours, so it just needs to be indexed and kinda snugged against the fenders. How are you aligning the fender and the bumper cover?
In the second pic from the top you’ll see an aluminum bracket held on with vice grips. We made that to push the fender and bumper cover out far enough to clear the extra tire width then used Rivnuts and hardware from Downstar to bolt them on. Before building it, I rolled and pulled the front fenders as far as possible then loosened all the fender mounting hardware and pulled them out as far as possible while keeping body lines in check and making sure the front doors open without any chance of contact. I ended up leaving a couple of the fender bolts out to allow for more width.

I actually still have my fender liners. I just trimmed where needed and zip tied the front of the liner to the mounts we made to keep them up out of the way of the taller tires. The rest of the liner uses OEM hardware.

Edit: I tore the leading edges of the front fender metal during trial/error and had to add metal and repaint them TWICE! 🤦‍♂️ Be careful if you attempt this. Even if you use M2 flares (I have a set) you’ll still have to cut out that huge box to clear taller tires. Those that don’t, DEFINITELY rub horribly at full compression. If they say they don’t, they’re full of shit. Taller tires will definitely hit that metal box where the three fender bolts reside.
 


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Woods247

Woods247

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That wing looks hilariously awesome!
When I picked it up I was like WTF dude is that a 70?! Its huge. It’s crazy but it’s faster than the two smaller ones I’ve used and the car is far more stable. The wing and end plates are much more efficient than the previous versions. Ninelives definitely sciences better than me…

We were gonna make a bracket so he could sell to the masses but I already had one from the UK so they just made custom mounts that adapt to it. I’m sure we can use my car to create a template if he gets requests for more. I wish they’d make a chassis mount quick release splitter for the Fiesta. Even if it costs a grand it would be totally worth it. I have literal weeks of time in that thing and it’s imperfect and overly complicated. A quick release would make my life a lot easier. I just couldn’t figure out how to do it at the time.
 


TyphoonFiST

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If it’s taller than stock (or 24” + in diameter), you’ll probably need to remove the boxed area that houses the three pain in the ass bumper/fender bolts. I was hesitant to cut all that out but man it’s sooooo much easier to take off the front bumper cover now. Rivnuts are the best!
Pics of Rivnuts Mod*
 


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Woods … it took some doing. But I managed to get 225/50/16 Hoosier R7s stuffed in mine. I wanted to stick with 16s to keep the BBK and, of course, slick options are limited with 16s.
 


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Woods247

Woods247

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Woods … it took some doing. But I managed to get 225/50/16 Hoosier R7s stuffed in mine. I wanted to stick with 16s to keep the BBK and, of course, slick options are limited with 16s.
Awesome!! And the flares came out nicely too. If I had any issues over the weekend I decided I’d suck it up and mount mine to make life easier. Do you have any trouble bringing rear tires up to temp within a few laps if ambient is in the 70s? What pressures are you running in the R7s?
 


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Awesome!! And the flares came out nicely too. If I had any issues over the weekend I decided I’d suck it up and mount mine to make life easier. Do you have any trouble bringing rear tires up to temp within a few laps if ambient is in the 70s? What pressures are you running in the R7s?
I won't be on the track with them until 9/1, so will see how it goes. I finally pulled the trigger because I was literally melting and chunking off the RT660s; it was ugly.

As for pressures, Hoosier recommends 26-28 lbs for 2500ish lb cars. But but but, the same instruction sheet also mentions how hot the front tires can get on a front wheel drive car . . . something I certainly experience. What's notable, the R7s have a max pressure listing of only 44 lbs, and I'm betting I hit that on the front by starting at 26.
 


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Hey Woods . . . I see you also have a BBK, although a different brand than me.

How long our pads lasting you on the front? I have tried DTC-60s, DTC-70s, and BP30s . . . none last me more than 2-3 track days. That's with or without ABS and torque vectoring disabled.
 


jeffreylyon

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Hey Woods . . . I see you also have a BBK, although a different brand than me.

How long our pads lasting you on the front? I have tried DTC-60s, DTC-70s, and BP30s . . . none last me more than 2-3 track days. That's with or without ABS and torque vectoring disabled.
How are you disabling ABS and torque vectoring?
 


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Woods247

Woods247

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How are you disabling ABS and torque vectoring?
You have to unplug that RCM under the console to disable TVC and pull a fuse or wheel speed sensor to disable ABS.

Edit: Do this at your own risk lol. I’m still not sure if unplugging the RCM disables HPFP and LPFP shutoff in a crash. My “false crash detection” workaround is unplugging a C-pillar crash sensor and leaving the RCM connected. Seems to work at AMP but I’ve yet to test at Barber.
 


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Woods247

Woods247

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Hey Woods . . . I see you also have a BBK, although a different brand than me.

How long our pads lasting you on the front? I have tried DTC-60s, DTC-70s, and BP30s . . . none last me more than 2-3 track days. That's with or without ABS and torque vectoring disabled.
I actually use cheap Stoptech Street Performance pads front and rear and they last around 30 sessions depending on the tracks. My rear brakes are from a Focus RS and the front are ST40. This car is so light I can get away with inexpensive pads using this brake setup. Maybe you could switch to Carbotec XP10s. XP12s might be too much but XP10 front and XP8 rear could be good. I’ve had good experiences with their pads on other platforms. Shit ain’t cheap though.
 


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