First things first. If you think it's going to be a quick and dirty install. You're wrong.
If you're not comfortable messing with the serp belt, battery disconnects, and following long procedures, pay someone to do this.
Install took me 2.5-3 hours total with the use of a lift. (upper hose alone gives 1.4 hrs book time)
So here's what is getting installed. Quality is as always, amazing.
Batteries are dead but they're right around 0.250 inches in thickness
As crazy as it sounds, step one is taking out your passenger side headlight. Yes, its needed.
Hiding behind the alternator you can see the upper portion of the lower radiator hose
I don't care what tools you have, how small your hands are, you HAVE to remove the alternator.
Start off by removing your serp belt. get a 17mm wrench on the tensioner and push toward the front of the car. Slide the belt off of any pulley you want to. I chose the idler pulley and the alternator considering that's what I was removing anyways.
There is a splash shield covering these that needs to be removed, it's two torex screws, same size as the ones for the headlight.
You can leave the belt draped around the rest of the pulleys - here's a belt routing diagram for reference.
Back to the top of the car, disconnect your battery + or -, either will work.
there's two bolts and a nut you have to remove, all are 15mm, one plug, and the battery cable on the alternator under a cover. The nut for the battery cable is 13mm
The bolt on top and the nut are easy to get at, the bolt at the bottom of the alternator is between the idler pulley and the water pump pulley, use an extension and a swivel socket to make it easy to take out.
One thing left. The stud that the nut comes off of at the top of the alternator (number 2 in the picture) needs to be removed in order to get the alternator out. It's a E8 size.
The alternator will come out between the A/C line and the coolant tube that feeds the degas chamber, its a tight squeeze but it will fit. That will leave you with this view.
You can see the upper portion of the lower rad hose right by the blue dot.
Get a pair of hose clamp pliers and get the top clamp off, after go back under the car and do the same to the lower section of the hose, have something ready to collect the coolant that's going to drain out of the system
Fitment on the Whoosh Hose is spot on.
Reinstall in reverse order, torque spec on the bolts and nuts for the alternator are 17 lb-ft
Well that sucked, huh?
Get ready to hate yourself some more.
I didn't grab a whole ton of pictures for the upper hose because i was too busy swearing.
If you still have a sound symposer installed, remove it. Then throw it out and put in a delete from whoosh. it'll make this in stall go easier for you.
Now that the symposer is out of the way you can get to the block side of the upper rad hose.
There's another coolant hose on top of it going to a valve, take that off the valve and move it out of the way, use whatever tools you have to get to the clamp and get that off. I ended up using 45 degree long reach pliers to turn the clamp and then get on the with a pair of hose clamp pliers.
You can see the clamp for the hose with the red paint mark on it.
This picture shows how buried it is without removing anything.
Again, fitment is perfect.
Remove the clamp at the radiator side of the hose, remove the hose being careful of getting it off the block side, its on a plastic housing.
Reinstall in reverse order of removal.
Now get some of this.
You can get it in a 50/50 mix already, just remember half of what you're paying for is a $0.99 gallon of distilled water.
Now, to fill the system with coolant. I'm just going to cheat and copy this directly from the ford procedure. PDF is attached to this post if anyone wants it.
Congrats. You're done. You now have super robust, barely any flex when hot, wont blow up on your stage 4 tune, Whoosh Motorsports Coolant Hoses.
If you want these and to spend a saturday morning turning wrenches click HERE to purchase them!
If you're not comfortable messing with the serp belt, battery disconnects, and following long procedures, pay someone to do this.
Install took me 2.5-3 hours total with the use of a lift. (upper hose alone gives 1.4 hrs book time)
So here's what is getting installed. Quality is as always, amazing.
Batteries are dead but they're right around 0.250 inches in thickness
As crazy as it sounds, step one is taking out your passenger side headlight. Yes, its needed.
Hiding behind the alternator you can see the upper portion of the lower radiator hose
I don't care what tools you have, how small your hands are, you HAVE to remove the alternator.
Start off by removing your serp belt. get a 17mm wrench on the tensioner and push toward the front of the car. Slide the belt off of any pulley you want to. I chose the idler pulley and the alternator considering that's what I was removing anyways.
There is a splash shield covering these that needs to be removed, it's two torex screws, same size as the ones for the headlight.
You can leave the belt draped around the rest of the pulleys - here's a belt routing diagram for reference.
Back to the top of the car, disconnect your battery + or -, either will work.
there's two bolts and a nut you have to remove, all are 15mm, one plug, and the battery cable on the alternator under a cover. The nut for the battery cable is 13mm
The bolt on top and the nut are easy to get at, the bolt at the bottom of the alternator is between the idler pulley and the water pump pulley, use an extension and a swivel socket to make it easy to take out.
One thing left. The stud that the nut comes off of at the top of the alternator (number 2 in the picture) needs to be removed in order to get the alternator out. It's a E8 size.
The alternator will come out between the A/C line and the coolant tube that feeds the degas chamber, its a tight squeeze but it will fit. That will leave you with this view.
You can see the upper portion of the lower rad hose right by the blue dot.
Get a pair of hose clamp pliers and get the top clamp off, after go back under the car and do the same to the lower section of the hose, have something ready to collect the coolant that's going to drain out of the system
Fitment on the Whoosh Hose is spot on.
Reinstall in reverse order, torque spec on the bolts and nuts for the alternator are 17 lb-ft
Well that sucked, huh?
Get ready to hate yourself some more.
I didn't grab a whole ton of pictures for the upper hose because i was too busy swearing.
If you still have a sound symposer installed, remove it. Then throw it out and put in a delete from whoosh. it'll make this in stall go easier for you.
Now that the symposer is out of the way you can get to the block side of the upper rad hose.
There's another coolant hose on top of it going to a valve, take that off the valve and move it out of the way, use whatever tools you have to get to the clamp and get that off. I ended up using 45 degree long reach pliers to turn the clamp and then get on the with a pair of hose clamp pliers.
You can see the clamp for the hose with the red paint mark on it.
This picture shows how buried it is without removing anything.
Again, fitment is perfect.
Remove the clamp at the radiator side of the hose, remove the hose being careful of getting it off the block side, its on a plastic housing.
Reinstall in reverse order of removal.
Now get some of this.
You can get it in a 50/50 mix already, just remember half of what you're paying for is a $0.99 gallon of distilled water.
Now, to fill the system with coolant. I'm just going to cheat and copy this directly from the ford procedure. PDF is attached to this post if anyone wants it.
Congrats. You're done. You now have super robust, barely any flex when hot, wont blow up on your stage 4 tune, Whoosh Motorsports Coolant Hoses.
If you want these and to spend a saturday morning turning wrenches click HERE to purchase them!
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