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TUNE+ Denso Pre-gapped Plugs BACK IN STOCK!
- Thread starter Tune+
- Start date
OP
Thread Starter
#24
Thread Starter
#24
I'm very honored to have your very post on this forum to be in my thread. It just so happens that your only rep is from someone in the same area as you and also made one of their first post in my threads.
If you guys are bored let me know.
In response to your questioning of spark plugs making the room to make additional power. If you don't follow the information that has already been posted, let me know what I need to clear up for you.
Consistent Ignition Corrections (When positive) will yield more power.
Knock prevention/Suppression will yield more power. How you might say? Well when these vehicles knock they switch their ignition strategy from "Fast Advance" to "Normal Advance" which will in turn change the amount of timing that is added, and the time that it takes to add the timing back in. This is AFTER it makes negative corrections to prevent another knock event moving forward. The ECU is very good about determining an up and coming knock event so it will make ignition corrections accordingly, however it doesn't always catch it and a knock event will occur. Negative corrections does not allow you to run target timing. Less timing = Less Power.
More timing = more power. I don't think I need to break this one down for you as it has been the result since the beginning of combustion engines.
If you guys are bored let me know.
In response to your questioning of spark plugs making the room to make additional power. If you don't follow the information that has already been posted, let me know what I need to clear up for you.
Consistent Ignition Corrections (When positive) will yield more power.
Knock prevention/Suppression will yield more power. How you might say? Well when these vehicles knock they switch their ignition strategy from "Fast Advance" to "Normal Advance" which will in turn change the amount of timing that is added, and the time that it takes to add the timing back in. This is AFTER it makes negative corrections to prevent another knock event moving forward. The ECU is very good about determining an up and coming knock event so it will make ignition corrections accordingly, however it doesn't always catch it and a knock event will occur. Negative corrections does not allow you to run target timing. Less timing = Less Power.
More timing = more power. I don't think I need to break this one down for you as it has been the result since the beginning of combustion engines.
My ignition corrections are all smooth and positive, and I believe that they are good w/out changing the spark plugs. On my next datalog that I send to Tune+ I will ask for an opinion of changing out my plugs (currently gapped by me to my own specs) to these plugs and to see if this will give me any potential benefit.
Isn't it true too that the gapping also effects the ability to add timing, and that a smaller spark plug gap is able to better take advantage of increased timing? I can see where working with a tuner who custom gaps a specific plug to work with their custom tuning parameters could make a positive impact.
Isn't it true too that the gapping also effects the ability to add timing, and that a smaller spark plug gap is able to better take advantage of increased timing? I can see where working with a tuner who custom gaps a specific plug to work with their custom tuning parameters could make a positive impact.
OP
Thread Starter
#33
Thread Starter
#33
Being on E30 you don't have to worry too much about ignition corrections too much. You would definitely see power gains if there were any issues getting any amount of timing out of the pump gas tune. It is always good practice to have quality plugs in the car.
Coming up on 20K miles so I purchased these plugs as normal maintenance item and put them in about a month ago. Before I go further I'll also state that my FiST has had the entire Mountune parts book thrown at it and is running Randy's own personal set of Stage 3 custom tunes.
Before changing out the plugs I very rarely ever had negative ignition correction using Randy's personal tune, but the idle was starting to get a little uneven so I figured it would be good to change the plugs anyway. After doing so the idle was much better and the car ran overall smoother. It did feel a bit more torquey down low in the midrange also. However, I came to realize that it occasionally will have a long crank to start now when the car is warm. This is most noticeable when the car has gotten up to full temp and you stop somewhere for a short time then get back in and start it up. Only a few times did it crank for an excessive period to where I thought it might not start. Most of the time in this situation it's like an extra fee cranks are needed to start. From cold there's no difference though.
Because of this I went back and retorqued the plugs and made sure the connectors were all seated well, but I still get the occasional long crank. Anyone else experiencing this?
Before changing out the plugs I very rarely ever had negative ignition correction using Randy's personal tune, but the idle was starting to get a little uneven so I figured it would be good to change the plugs anyway. After doing so the idle was much better and the car ran overall smoother. It did feel a bit more torquey down low in the midrange also. However, I came to realize that it occasionally will have a long crank to start now when the car is warm. This is most noticeable when the car has gotten up to full temp and you stop somewhere for a short time then get back in and start it up. Only a few times did it crank for an excessive period to where I thought it might not start. Most of the time in this situation it's like an extra fee cranks are needed to start. From cold there's no difference though.
Because of this I went back and retorqued the plugs and made sure the connectors were all seated well, but I still get the occasional long crank. Anyone else experiencing this?
OP
Thread Starter
#36
Thread Starter
#36
Thank you for the post, this is common with 1-step colder plugs. The Fiesta experiences this a little more because there actually isn't a DIRECT replacement 1-step or 2-step colder plug available. These are the closest and the only difference is .4mm shorter length. This is mostly the cause of the extra crank.
