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Boomba Racing Catch Cans

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frankiefiesta

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Stock the contaminants get burned back off in the intake. With a catch can you are storing them which is why they could freeze up. I think as long as you keep up on draining it you shouldn't have any problems.

I ran a catch can on a gti I had a few years ago and I forgot to empty it over the winter. It froze up, clogged my crankcase breather, built up a ton of pressure and shot a bunch of oil out of the dipstick tube lol. It didn't cause any damage but scared the hell out of me!
Hmm wonder if the check valve that some companies offer with the catch can would prevent pressure from building up
 


CanadianGuy

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Hmm wonder if the check valve that some companies offer with the catch can would prevent pressure from building up
It should not fix that as the frozen can the can/hose is blocked and cannot push through so it would build up. The check valve is simply preventing reverse flow not pressure in the system. Important to keep an eye on this, or one way is to run the hoses like D1JL does do not tighten them on the can, just slid them on. If to much pressure builds, the hose blows of and you vent to atmosphere for a little while. The hose coming off the nipple should be the path of less resistance.
 


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It should not fix that as the frozen can the can/hose is blocked and cannot push through so it would build up. The check valve is simply preventing reverse flow not pressure in the system. Important to keep an eye on this, or one way is to run the hoses like D1JL does do not tighten them on the can, just slid them on. If to much pressure builds, the hose blows of and you vent to atmosphere for a little while. The hose coming off the nipple should be the path of less resistance.
I'm not sure that's such a bright idea. In addition to VTA on the PCV, you'd be pulling in unmetered, unfiltered air directly into the intake manifold...
 


CanadianGuy

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I'm not sure that's such a bright idea. In addition to VTA on the PCV, you'd be pulling in unmetered, unfiltered air directly into the intake manifold...
Could not agree more if left in that mode. Just indicating that the hose coming off the OCC once there is too much pressure built up is safer and easier to fix than the manifold seal going or something else. Basically a fail mode before damage.


Guess the best option would be just to drain/check the can frequently for you guys with really cold weather.
That is indeed the best. Some have suggested adding a few drops of low temp windsheild washer to help the water not ice up. Not to sure that would work but it is easy enough to do.
 


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Could not agree more if left in that mode. Just indicating that the hose coming off the OCC once there is too much pressure built up is safer and easier to fix than the manifold seal going or something else. Basically a fail mode before damage.
Sorry if I'm being dense, but how/why would a manifold seal go? Let's say the hoses or can itself does freeze, creating a blockage--which again, I'm not sure is all that likely. This blockage is functionally equivalent to the PCV valve being closed, which happens all the time with a CC or without. So, the IM under pressure is no different than the PCV valve being closed.
 


CanadianGuy

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Sorry if I'm being dense, but how/why would a manifold seal go? Let's say the hoses or can itself does freeze, creating a blockage--which again, I'm not sure is all that likely. This blockage is functionally equivalent to the PCV valve being closed, which happens all the time with a CC or without. So, the IM under pressure is no different than the PCV valve being closed.
True but the system is trying to push pressure/air through PCV. If it fails the pressure builds up in the crank case. I misspoke about the manifold. With too much pressure the oil will try to squeeze though where it can to relieve pressure. Sometime the oil cap, the dip stick, other time piston. Now before it gets to the catastrophic failure stage one should notice, erratic/rough idle, oil consumption, oil leak/smell in the engine, bad fuel mileage, loss of power. This article explain some of the failures. http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/197 Don't get me wrong I am not an expert by any means, I do lots of reading and trail and error.
 


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True but the system is trying to push pressure/air through PCV. If it fails the pressure builds up in the crank case. I misspoke about the manifold. With too much pressure the oil will try to squeeze though where it can to relieve pressure. Sometime the oil cap, the dip stick, other time piston. Now before it gets to the catastrophic failure stage one should notice, erratic/rough idle, oil consumption, oil leak/smell in the engine, bad fuel mileage, loss of power. This article explain some of the failures. http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/197 Don't get me wrong I am not an expert by any means, I do lots of reading and trail and error.
Yeah, I just think this is one of those things that people worry about on the forums without much reason. Something happens once and suddenly everyone thinks if temps drop below freezing, your CC is going to blow up like a grenade.

Edit: Also, important to remember any frozen blockage will almost certainly be temporary. With the engine running, the engine bay gets hot--even when it's cold out. So, yes, if frozen shut, you may get the symptoms of a blocked PCV, but only until things warm up.
 


CanadianGuy

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Yeah, I just think this is one of those things that people worry about on the forums without much reason. Something happens once and suddenly everyone thinks if temps drop below freezing, your CC is going to blow up like a grenade.
Again i agree. If one keeps an eye on it nothing will happen that cannot be prevented.
 


stuntdoogie

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Just warm up car before driving and dont drive hard till the CC and hoses get nice and hot. I have a low boost setting in one of my tune slots just to make sure I dont overboost by accident.
 


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I had some oil splash up into the sight window so I thought I'd investigate......



This is a month and a half of winter driving for me[ohcrap]. From what I gather from some quick google'n the clear liquid is discolored water and the tan is oil vapor and water condensation. So if anyone's wondering the extra capacity of the Boomba OCC is very helpful for winter driving when your grabbing a lot of condensation.
 


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Boomba Racing

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I had some oil splash up into the sight window so I thought I'd investigate......



This is a month and a half of winter driving for me[ohcrap]. From what I gather from some quick google'n the clear liquid is discolored water and the tan is oil vapor and water condensation. So if anyone's wondering the extra capacity of the Boomba OCC is very helpful for winter driving when your grabbing a lot of condensation.
Looks like the can is doing its job! Reasons like this are why people should be running a catch can. Do you mind if we share this image around a little bit for promotional purposes?
 


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Looks like the can is doing its job! Reasons like this are why people should be running a catch can. Do you mind if we share this image around a little bit for promotional purposes?
Sure I can also post up a picture after it settled tonight. The oil eventually settled on top so it did indeed pull some oil even in that short time period.
 


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This is everything after it settled. You can see a little better now that the bottom is water but the top most layer is oil. Again this is only after a month and a half.

 


OP
Boomba Racing

Boomba Racing

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This is everything after it settled. You can see a little better now that the bottom is water but the top most layer is oil. Again this is only after a month and a half.

After 5k miles with Boomba OCC!



Great job Boomba!
Love to see people posting these up! We told you guys we had a reason for the larger cans. Look at all that blow-by!
 


stuntdoogie

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This is everything after it settled. You can see a little better now that the bottom is water but the top most layer is oil. Again this is only after a month and a half.

Damn that's alot. Do you race your car or wot alot?
 


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