How I do a complete detail

[GhostRS]

I am sharing this with everyone at the request of [MENTION=48]LonestarRS[/MENTION]

I want to start by saying this is not the END ALL BE ALL of how to detail a car. This is how I do my own.

I'm breaking the process down into a few steps....

Step 1: Washing

I don't feel I need to be super detailed about this. I think we all know how to wash our cars here, AND @FocusRSForum.com already did a great write up on this.

So here's the long and the short of this step...
You want to use the "2 Bucket Method", meaning 2 buckets, one for soapy water, another for rinsing your sponge or mitt in-between dunking it in the soapy water to remove as much particulates off it as possible as not to have them embedded in your mitt/sponge and marring the paint. I use a microfiber mitt myself. I also use a grit guard in both buckets, as well as a wash board addition to the rinse bucket to make it easier to scrub off bad stuff on the mitt.

I like to use Optimum Wash... it doesn't sud much. You really don't need a lot of suds to get a car clean. I also add a dash of Optimum No Rinse... it helps keep the spots down to a minimum and just keeps things lubricated in the process.

Start at the top of your vehicle and work your way down to the lower panels.

I lucked out with a cloudy day. Don't wash in the sun if you can help it.

Next I wash the tires... I used Bleche White for these and a tire brush:

Let it dwell for a few minutes, then scrub away and thoroughly rinse.

I then clean the wheels....
Start with spraying IronX and letting it sit for a few minutes. I usually spray 2 wheels at a time, so by the time I'm done 1 wheel the second is ready to work with. You will see purple "bleeding" from the wheels, rotors and calipers. That means the IronX is working and getting rid of the metal deposits and brake dust you've been collecting.

At this point I use a Wheel Woolies to clean the wheels. They work great to get behind the spokes and most of the wheel barrel without having to remove the wheel and tire. I then use the SpeedMaster brush to clean the calipers. Make sure to thoroughly rinse the wheels.

I then dry the car. I use my trusty leaf blower to blow 80% of the water off the car, and I get it out from the mirrors and nook and crannies where it leaks from forever. The remaining water I wipe off with a waffle weave towel. The particular ones I use are called The Guzzler.

And of course I wiped down the engine bay...
I'm not a fan of blasting electronics with a hose or pressure washer, so I use and all purple cleaner if needed and just use some detailing brushes to brush away crap that I can't reach.

 

[GhostRS]

Step 2: Decontaminating the Paint

Step 2 is something I only do 2x a year... spring and fall.

This step has 2 main parts...
The first part is, once I've washed the car, I spray IronX all over it. Yup, same stuff I used on te wheels, and same results from the paint. it will "bleed" purple as I pulls the metal particulates from your paint. I usually spray it on, wait about 5 minutes, take a wet microfiber and wipe it thoroughly into the paint so I don't miss and areas, then rinse it off. RINSE THOROUGHLY. Wash the car again if you feel the need.

I don't have images of this step as I was under the gun trying to get it on and off. I don't like to leave it on long. And you NEVER want to let it dry.

The second step is claying. After using traditional clay for many years and being completely sick of dropping it and wasting valuable clay, I said no more. Now I use Nanoskin. Nanoskin is fantastic... you can buy the products as a mitt, sponge, towel or "pad" for your DA. I prefer the mitts as they are easy to use.
Best part is you can use a mitt up to 40 times. You can even drop it on the ground. Simply hose it off and you are back in action

This surface feels like a sticky rubber I guess. This is the side you use on the paint. The other side is a typical terry cloth or microfiber.

The key to using Nanoskin is lubrication. Just like clay, you need to use a lubricating element or you will marr the paint. Rather than a traditional, expensive spray lube, I use a bucket of water with Optimum No Rinse added.

As you work the mitt over the paint, work small sections at a time, in an up and down motion, NOT in a circular one. Just like clay, at some point you will feel the "smoothness" when you've pulled all the crap from the paint. I dunk the mitt each time I move to another section for optimum lubrication.

Once the car is done... rinse thoroughly.

 

[GhostRS]

Step 3: Paint Correction with LSP

At this point I move the dry car into the garage... most products I use for compounding and last steps require no sunlight when using. Plus I can get out of the pollen and crap falling from the trees.

I didn't have to work this paint hard... it's only 4 months old. There was, however, light swirls and a few scratches here and there. it can be expected getting a new car from the dealership with this level of marring. For light duty I usually use an AIO (all in one) for correction, polish and protection. I did decide to use some compound first on the RS.

Started out with my Flex. Used a 6.5" orange cutting pad and Menzerna 400FG. This is a decent cut compound but leaves a nice gloss behind. I'm sorry I don't have more picks or video to go with this section, but it was only me and my iPhone.
I try not to use a ton of product. With most products, less is more. After this I use my finger and smear the dots around.

I usually use my DA on 6, which is high when I'm trying to get good results with a compound. I don't have pics, but I work in small sections (about 2'x2') going up and down and back and forth making a tick-tac-toe board basically. KEY: DO NOT RUSH. Let the machine do the work. After each section I wipe off the residue with a clean microfiber. I find getting it off quickly makes it easier.

Once the larger panels are done (like roof, hood, doors) I switched to my Rupes Mini for the smaller sections like the front bumper. Same rule applies for pad prep- some dots and rub them in. Also go slow and let the machine do the work.

Once I wanted to just polish and protect, I switched to polishing pads and changed to CarPro Essence. It's an AIO. It goes on pretty easy and wipes off in a snap. I used this protect very sparingly as I was warned that little goes a long way, and the more I used the harder it would be to remove. Directions also said to use my DA on medium, so I used both machines on speed 4.

My LSP (last step process) was to apply another level of protection. Though Essence works as a sealant, I wanted a dedicated product on top. I decided to try CarPro Reload this time... it was recommended to go with Essence.

Reload is very easy to use... spray on the paint, wipe on with a microfiber, then wipe off with the other side of the microfiber. It went on and off super easy. I did the entire car with this product.

 

[GhostRS]

Step 4: the Little Details

I'm lumping all the other things I do into this step.

First I wiped all windows down. I use Pinnacle Crystal Clear with Water Repellant. I personally love this stuff. Pricey, but works great. I used a waffle weave glass towel with this product. Works well and doesn't streak.

Next I coated my headlights and taillights. I use Wolfgang's Plastik Surface Sealant.

Super easy: wipe on with a foam applicator, wait till it hazes like a wax, then wipe off with a microfiber. I tried to get a pic where you can see the haze from the sealant.

Then I coated all the black trim bits with Prima Infinity. It's like a glaze. I just use a foam applicator to wipe it on. You don't wipe it off. I just let it soak in.

And I think the last thing I coated was my wheels... I used McGees 37 Wheel Coating. Again, easy on, easy off. Just spray product on foam applicator. Wipe on. IF NEEDED, wipe off excess with a microfiber. I did not need to do this.

 

[GhostRS]

Notes and tips

I hope this was helpful. I put a ton of time into my detailing. Please feel free to comment and ask any questions... who knows, I may have left something out.

Tip 1: Store your microfibers in closed bins so they stay nice and free from debris. I keep mine in clear bins on my wrok bench.

Tip 2: Keep your microfibers separate. I have different uses for mine, so I bought this handy laundry system for them. They are separated and washed by paint, misc and rags.

If you have a DA or rotary machine, make sure to maintain it... I re-lubricate the felt ring in mine every 2 uses. I also make sure to blow out any crap in it by pulling off the backing plate.

 

[GhostRS]

Oh, I guess I should post a few "glamor shots"....
I need to get some good reflective ones outside still.

 

[LonestarRS]

This is so awesome. You've motivated me to wash and polish again haha.

 

[GhostRS]

This is so awesome. You've motivated me to wash and polish again haha.

Ha! You better get on it now

 

[GhostRS]

I should add I usually coat the tires as well, but they didn't need a fresh coating from the last time I did them. I use TW Black Jet Black Black Endure Shine Tire Coat Kit. Not a big fan of TW products, but this kit is amazing. lasts a long time and looks great. Doesn't "brown" your tires, either.

 

[MKIIIRS]

Thank you so much for this comprehensive write-up Monica, seeing the results from products that you are using, I'm tempted to dump what I have and getting some high quality products.

I have a quick question, when you're applying the cutting compound, how much pressure are you supposed to use on the DA?

 

[GhostRS]

I have a quick question, when you're applying the cutting compound, how much pressure are you supposed to use on the DA?

Your welcome!

Well, I don't think you need to throw your whole body into it. Especially depending on what DA you are using. For me I like to run the machine on high, and work slowly, pausing over trouble areas like scratches to give the machine time to work.

Don't go throwing all your stuff away. I can give you good recommendations for things. Just ask me for specific recommendations.
And as you can see, I am not one to be "brand loyal"... I buy the product that works the best for me, no matter who makes it. I know some detailers who only use one brand line and I think it really limits you from buying the best possible product for your specific needs.

 

[MKIIIRS]

It wouldn't be much for me to toss out as they were old anyways.

The other question is did you tape up all the plastic trim bits around the car before applying the polish?

 

[GhostRS]

It wouldn't be much for me to toss out as they were old anyways.

The other question is did you tape up all the plastic trim bits around the car before applying the polish?

LOL well if they are old, then throw away!

As for taping.... I admit I did not.
This is a "do as I say, not as I do" situation. I recommend you do. But TBH I'm so used to avoiding trim pieces I don't worry much about hitting them by accident. Also, the products I use don't stain trim. It's a requirement for me when I'm looking for new products. They usually say whether or not they do or do not.

FYI: Don't get obsessed like me....

 

[MKIIIRS]

Thats a sweet set-up. Any major difference between the three polishers?

 

[GhostRS]

Thats a sweet set-up. Any major difference between the three polishers?

Thx! I've been collecting products for a number of years now.

As for the polishers...

The one in the middle is my tried and true Flex. Gear driven and you just can't stop the rotation. It's an animal. I have 2 backing plates for it... a 6.5" and 5.5".
The one on the right is a cheapo from Harbor Freight. It was recommended by a detailing friend. I haven't used it much. Nothing wrong with it, but I prefer the Flex.
The one on the left is my Rupes Mini... long throw and a 3" backing plate for small pads. It's great for some areas like the front bumper and the area between the top of the window and the roof trim.

 

[spottremover]

I believe you just created my Father's Day wish list[emoji1362]


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[GhostRS]

I believe you just created my Father's Day wish list[emoji1362]

Ha! Nice

 

[spottremover]

[emoji1360]


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[GhostRS]

[emoji1360]

Let me know if you have any questions or want any recommendations.
I don't have every product out there, but I have a lot and tried a lot.

 

[LonestarRS]

I can't tell you how much I appreciate this write up, up until now I was using the polisher at too low of a speed, I cranked it up to 5 and the results are day and night.